Hello TRT! I decided to remodel my house and my reef tank too. After almost 18 years of successfully running, I had my tank completely dismantled and rebuilt from scratch. I would like some input on the rebuild since we are getting close to finishing it out. I am interested in knowing about things I might have missed and mistakes that are going to cost me down the road.
Tank is 200 gallons and I plan mostly softies and LPS, 10-12 fish, plus crabs, cleaners, shrimps, etc.
Here is one of the last pictures I took of the original tank before is was taken down in the Fall of 2016. Tank was started in 1999. That encrusting montipora in the middle was out-of-control aggressive and taking over the tank. I also had some scratches on the glass that bothered me, plus I just wanted to upgrade a lot of things and start fresh.
Attachment 152722
For the new tank, I decided to build it to the same dimensions as the original, and follow some of the basic setup that had been successful. I also elected to use the original sump, calcium reactor, phosban reactor, biopellet reactor and ozone generator.
I retired the Aquadyne Octopus 3000 controller, Barracuda pump, VHO and metal halide lighting, Teco RA680 chiller and Precision Marine skimmer.
We upgraded the lighting to two Ectotech XR30w Pro Generation 4 LED fixtures and replaced the pump with an Ecotech Vectra L1 that runs the sump and returns through two jets, and a Vectra M1 that feeds four return jets through an Oceans Motion wavemaker. I also replaced the chiller with a new Teco TK-1000. The skimmer was replaced with a Nyos Quantum 220. And I set up the the Ecotech Reeflink wireless device to control the lighting.
After trying several noisy and violent plumbing/overflow iterations, we decided to employ a Herbie overflow. My main siphon drain is 6” below the emergency drain. The weir falls quietly about 3/4” to the overflow box level which is governed by the emergency drain pipe height. I run the emergency drain with a trickle. It is amazingly quiet and has needed no adjustment after 2 weeks of testing. Although I have successfully plugged both main and emergency drains (separately) with my fingers to simulate an 80% blockage of each pipe, I still plan to cover the entire overflow box with egg crate and maybe and extra defense layer around the drains to prevent anything from falling in and blocking the flow. Also, there are anti-siphon tubes tapped into the supply pipes.
Here is a picture of the new tank with some cloudy freshwater running it in for plumbing testing and without the finished cabinet doors and trim:
Attachment 152762
Here is the Oceans Motion plumbing:
Attachment 152738
Here is the Radion lighting suspended 10-1/2” above the water by adjustable coated jack chains and stainless steel fasteners:
Attachment 152730
Here is the sump area under the tank (accessories not connected or organized yet):
Attachment 152754
My plan for substrate is to use the Jaubert/Monoco style plenum system that was in the original tank, but with some tweaks. I plan a 1-1/8” plenum covered with 1/2” egg crate and a screen, On top of the screen will be 3-1/2” of 2-5mm crushed aragonite gravel with another screen about halfway to block any diggers. In the bottom will be a PVC rack (new addition for this rebuild) that will support the rock and keep it from sinking down into the substrate like the previous rock did, and also to improve the flow through the gravel. The rack will be built with 3/4” PVC arranged in a 4" grid pattern with 5” tall posts in the middle and 4” tall posts around the edges so that the rack system will be just under the gravel and not visible. I believe there will be a total of 56 posts on the display floor which is 33"x34". Here is the proposed plenum/substrate bed. Note that the wood cabinet trim covers 4” of the lower tank, so only 1” of gravel will be visible when viewing the tank.
Attachment 152746
I plan to use live rock, but not sure of what is available now days. Any suggestions or experience with the man-made alternatives would be helpful.
Flow in the tank is provided by a six directional jet return system mounted in the back wall which gives a very clean look with no plumbing or powerheads to distract from the aesthetics. The top two jets are fed by the L1 (3000gph rated). The four side jets are fed with the M1 (2000gph rated) but the side jets are opposing on/off alternating due to the wavemaker. Total flow in the display is estimated at 3000gph (allowing for 7’ of head pressure on the pumps, pipe fittings, friction, etc). I estimate 90-100 gallons of actual water volume in the display after subtracting overflow and plumbing chambers, plenum, gravel and rock. Turnover is therefore estimated at 30-35x water volume in the display.
I will also line the cabinet and doors again with mass loaded vinyl sound proofing foam, so this tank should be completely inaudible with the doors closed. The new DC pumps are soooooo quiet, I probably don't even need the sound treatment.
I am also contemplating a Cheato reactor.
So there you have it. All comments, advice and recommendations welcome!
Spridle
Tank is 200 gallons and I plan mostly softies and LPS, 10-12 fish, plus crabs, cleaners, shrimps, etc.
Here is one of the last pictures I took of the original tank before is was taken down in the Fall of 2016. Tank was started in 1999. That encrusting montipora in the middle was out-of-control aggressive and taking over the tank. I also had some scratches on the glass that bothered me, plus I just wanted to upgrade a lot of things and start fresh.
Attachment 152722
For the new tank, I decided to build it to the same dimensions as the original, and follow some of the basic setup that had been successful. I also elected to use the original sump, calcium reactor, phosban reactor, biopellet reactor and ozone generator.
I retired the Aquadyne Octopus 3000 controller, Barracuda pump, VHO and metal halide lighting, Teco RA680 chiller and Precision Marine skimmer.
We upgraded the lighting to two Ectotech XR30w Pro Generation 4 LED fixtures and replaced the pump with an Ecotech Vectra L1 that runs the sump and returns through two jets, and a Vectra M1 that feeds four return jets through an Oceans Motion wavemaker. I also replaced the chiller with a new Teco TK-1000. The skimmer was replaced with a Nyos Quantum 220. And I set up the the Ecotech Reeflink wireless device to control the lighting.
After trying several noisy and violent plumbing/overflow iterations, we decided to employ a Herbie overflow. My main siphon drain is 6” below the emergency drain. The weir falls quietly about 3/4” to the overflow box level which is governed by the emergency drain pipe height. I run the emergency drain with a trickle. It is amazingly quiet and has needed no adjustment after 2 weeks of testing. Although I have successfully plugged both main and emergency drains (separately) with my fingers to simulate an 80% blockage of each pipe, I still plan to cover the entire overflow box with egg crate and maybe and extra defense layer around the drains to prevent anything from falling in and blocking the flow. Also, there are anti-siphon tubes tapped into the supply pipes.
Here is a picture of the new tank with some cloudy freshwater running it in for plumbing testing and without the finished cabinet doors and trim:
Attachment 152762
Here is the Oceans Motion plumbing:
Attachment 152738
Here is the Radion lighting suspended 10-1/2” above the water by adjustable coated jack chains and stainless steel fasteners:
Attachment 152730
Here is the sump area under the tank (accessories not connected or organized yet):
Attachment 152754
My plan for substrate is to use the Jaubert/Monoco style plenum system that was in the original tank, but with some tweaks. I plan a 1-1/8” plenum covered with 1/2” egg crate and a screen, On top of the screen will be 3-1/2” of 2-5mm crushed aragonite gravel with another screen about halfway to block any diggers. In the bottom will be a PVC rack (new addition for this rebuild) that will support the rock and keep it from sinking down into the substrate like the previous rock did, and also to improve the flow through the gravel. The rack will be built with 3/4” PVC arranged in a 4" grid pattern with 5” tall posts in the middle and 4” tall posts around the edges so that the rack system will be just under the gravel and not visible. I believe there will be a total of 56 posts on the display floor which is 33"x34". Here is the proposed plenum/substrate bed. Note that the wood cabinet trim covers 4” of the lower tank, so only 1” of gravel will be visible when viewing the tank.
Attachment 152746
I plan to use live rock, but not sure of what is available now days. Any suggestions or experience with the man-made alternatives would be helpful.
Flow in the tank is provided by a six directional jet return system mounted in the back wall which gives a very clean look with no plumbing or powerheads to distract from the aesthetics. The top two jets are fed by the L1 (3000gph rated). The four side jets are fed with the M1 (2000gph rated) but the side jets are opposing on/off alternating due to the wavemaker. Total flow in the display is estimated at 3000gph (allowing for 7’ of head pressure on the pumps, pipe fittings, friction, etc). I estimate 90-100 gallons of actual water volume in the display after subtracting overflow and plumbing chambers, plenum, gravel and rock. Turnover is therefore estimated at 30-35x water volume in the display.
I will also line the cabinet and doors again with mass loaded vinyl sound proofing foam, so this tank should be completely inaudible with the doors closed. The new DC pumps are soooooo quiet, I probably don't even need the sound treatment.
I am also contemplating a Cheato reactor.
So there you have it. All comments, advice and recommendations welcome!
Spridle
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