I guess it is time to start a new thread because I am finally moving into the "action" side of things rather than just planning. We picked up a 300dd last week to replace our cramped 90.
Our current system:
The new display tank:
Display mods:
We are going to start off by cleaning the glass, removing the overflows and then removing the silicone seals around the inside corners of the tank. We're going to add an eight inch eurobrace all the way around the inside perimeter of the tank to help prevent the types of problems which other 300dd owners have been having. We will use 1/2" glass for the eurobracing and will fill the center of the tank with 1/2" acrylic, then lay a sheet of 1/2" starboard down across the whole bottom. For an overflow, we will build a glass coast-to-coast overflow to maximize the surface skimming. We plan on building a hybrid wood/steel stand in order to make it very strong and not have a center brace in the front, giving 6ft of unobstructed access under the display.
Equipment:
Sump - I'm going to move the glass sump from my current equipment cabinet to under the display. What used to be the frag tank will now be a cryptic zone for more live rock and sand. Under the original stand, we will probably have a much small frag tank with T5s.
Skimmer - I'll build a new protein skimmer from scratch which will sit just outside of the sump. I've already purchased a 14"x18" grey PVC body for it and will bond flanges to it to bolt to an acrylic riser and 8" neck. The cup doesn't need to be large as it will still drain into an external container. I plan to run this skimmer recirculating with a large bubble blaster pump. Building it myself, I can probably break even selling my old reef octopus. With the upgraded skimmer, I should be able to get by without and carbon dosing to boost output.
Phosphate reduction - I'm also going to build a new lanthanum chloride reactor in order to get away from GFO. Running large amounts of GFO is a total headache because of the way it clumps up and the dust that it creates. It is also very expensive compared to lanthanum chloride. By dosing the LaCl through a dosing pump into the reactor, I can control the phosphate reduction digitally, unlike GFO which is not remotely time released.
Dosing - For dosing all of my major and minor ions, I will continue using most of my equipment, running kalk, dosing pumps and a calcium reactor for the redundancy safety net; though, I may wind up building a bigger calcium reactor.
Lighting - Right now I have two hydra52s and three sols. I love the hydra52s but I don't feel like they have enough of a blue punch and it winds up making the tank look more purple than I would want. This could easily be remedied by swapping white LEDs for blues but I am not sure that I want to modify them. Three hydra52s are advertised to be able to cover the entirety of the 300dd tank but I am not too sure about all of that. I think that I would be more comfortable running the three hydra52s and supplementing them with six sols. The lighting rack will be very heavy and I plan to run it about 6" off of the water. I'm going to add ball bearing sliders to the back of the stand to fix the light supports to and then counter-weigh the whole system so that I can easily get more clearance to work on the tank.
Flow - Getting all of the flow that this tanks needs using vortechs would be quite the investment. Jebao just release the WR pumps and I extend to buy six of the WR20 pumps for flow. This should be enough to blow the tank apart!
Natural nutrient reduction - A lot of you guys know me well enough to know that I would incorporate algae into a bigger system for nutrient reduction. My weapon of choice as of late has been chaeto due to how easy it is to harvest. Under this tank, I will stick a 29 gallon chaeto tank with some powerful power heads to keep a nice large ball of chaeto spinning under powerful lights.
That's about all that I can think of off of the top of my head.:beer:
Our current system:
The new display tank:
Display mods:
We are going to start off by cleaning the glass, removing the overflows and then removing the silicone seals around the inside corners of the tank. We're going to add an eight inch eurobrace all the way around the inside perimeter of the tank to help prevent the types of problems which other 300dd owners have been having. We will use 1/2" glass for the eurobracing and will fill the center of the tank with 1/2" acrylic, then lay a sheet of 1/2" starboard down across the whole bottom. For an overflow, we will build a glass coast-to-coast overflow to maximize the surface skimming. We plan on building a hybrid wood/steel stand in order to make it very strong and not have a center brace in the front, giving 6ft of unobstructed access under the display.
Equipment:
Sump - I'm going to move the glass sump from my current equipment cabinet to under the display. What used to be the frag tank will now be a cryptic zone for more live rock and sand. Under the original stand, we will probably have a much small frag tank with T5s.
Skimmer - I'll build a new protein skimmer from scratch which will sit just outside of the sump. I've already purchased a 14"x18" grey PVC body for it and will bond flanges to it to bolt to an acrylic riser and 8" neck. The cup doesn't need to be large as it will still drain into an external container. I plan to run this skimmer recirculating with a large bubble blaster pump. Building it myself, I can probably break even selling my old reef octopus. With the upgraded skimmer, I should be able to get by without and carbon dosing to boost output.
Phosphate reduction - I'm also going to build a new lanthanum chloride reactor in order to get away from GFO. Running large amounts of GFO is a total headache because of the way it clumps up and the dust that it creates. It is also very expensive compared to lanthanum chloride. By dosing the LaCl through a dosing pump into the reactor, I can control the phosphate reduction digitally, unlike GFO which is not remotely time released.
Dosing - For dosing all of my major and minor ions, I will continue using most of my equipment, running kalk, dosing pumps and a calcium reactor for the redundancy safety net; though, I may wind up building a bigger calcium reactor.
Lighting - Right now I have two hydra52s and three sols. I love the hydra52s but I don't feel like they have enough of a blue punch and it winds up making the tank look more purple than I would want. This could easily be remedied by swapping white LEDs for blues but I am not sure that I want to modify them. Three hydra52s are advertised to be able to cover the entirety of the 300dd tank but I am not too sure about all of that. I think that I would be more comfortable running the three hydra52s and supplementing them with six sols. The lighting rack will be very heavy and I plan to run it about 6" off of the water. I'm going to add ball bearing sliders to the back of the stand to fix the light supports to and then counter-weigh the whole system so that I can easily get more clearance to work on the tank.
Flow - Getting all of the flow that this tanks needs using vortechs would be quite the investment. Jebao just release the WR pumps and I extend to buy six of the WR20 pumps for flow. This should be enough to blow the tank apart!
Natural nutrient reduction - A lot of you guys know me well enough to know that I would incorporate algae into a bigger system for nutrient reduction. My weapon of choice as of late has been chaeto due to how easy it is to harvest. Under this tank, I will stick a 29 gallon chaeto tank with some powerful power heads to keep a nice large ball of chaeto spinning under powerful lights.
That's about all that I can think of off of the top of my head.:beer:
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