I have a 75g FOWLR. I originally wanted to set it up with softies after I got the hang of things but I am barely hanging on. Don't get me wrong, my tank is beautiful but it only has 3 fish. Anyway...I'm having issues with filtration. Until I can get that down to where I feel I have some control I am lost.
I could just list specs here on what I currently have but I thought I'd walk you through what I have had along the way...
Started in 2008 with some sand and 3 rocks-not live. 2 clowns, 1 puffer and another magenta, yellow and purple fish. The filtration was 2 HOB 300's with carbon filters and bio wheels. Light was 2 65w PC's. I am guessing he had a couple power heads in there when I bought it (I think those are the ones I use to mix my saltwater now). The magenta fish died right out of the gate. The puffer hung around for a bit but croaked as well.
What I've done along the way...I'm not exactly sure on dates up till 6-23-09 (that is when I started my tank diary) but I added a RODI system around 8/2009 and I am not positive but I am betting over 5 years any bad stuff from the original tap water I put in there is gone. I have added around 150-200 lbs of LR over the years. Some sand but not enough to call it a DSB (deep sand bed). My pH has always been on the low side. Lowest is 7.0 (when started and when having issues) highest 8.0 (unless I use buffer/baking soda). I keep my SG @ 1.024/5. I top off with fresh RODI H2O. In 2011 I added a Remora Pro with preskim. Started out with a mag 3 but changed to a mag 5. Had a hell of a time getting skimmate for the longest time, just recently added the fuge and Viola! nice dark icky stuff! Shorly after the skimmer I added a ATO (automatic top off). I have always had an issue with temp from the lights and have since added fans on either side of my stand to blow air under the lights. I also have a lot of PHs (power heads-korailia's). 3 700's and 3 400's as well. 2 of my PHs (400's) are timed with lighting to change stuff up and the corner 700's are pointed up to lessen temp. I have added 2 more PC bulbs, 65w, so the fans are needed. (Opps forgot to add that when I added the remora I got rid of 1 of the HOB emperors)-(I got rid of the last when I swapped it out for the fuge). I then added a HOB fuge with a rio 600. It has a DSB as well as some LR; 3 different kinds of macro algae. 1st thing I did was remove the hair algae-there was no way I wanted that in my tank again, not even to eat nitrates. The fern or sword or what ever you call the long skinny macro algae that looks like a feather turned white and died right out of the gate. The cheato started following. I have since removed it from the fuge so only rock and sand in there now. I have ALWAYS had an issue with inverts. Here is a list of stuff I have gone through....Aiptasia-the peppermint ate that, he died too, but the aiptasia never returned. I have had countless hermits, red, blue and scarlets too!, nothing has survived. Far as snails I have had turbo, nacarius (I do like these), margaritas, astria, as well as cerith. I have had mushrooms, a rose bubble anemone as well as a ricordia. I had an emerald crab in there too but he didn't last long. He was originally bought to eat my red bubble algae-RBA but he didn't (my damsel did). I have the normal hitchhikers, snails, bristleworms, starfish, sponges. The RBA was a hitchhiker as well as the aiptasia.
So with all that being said.....I have learned that emerald crabs don't eat red bubble algae-damsels do. Blue hermits are bullies. Peppermint shrimp eat aiptasia. Top off with straight RODI not saltwater. Clean your sand. Blow off your rocks with a turkey baster prior to a H2O change. Peroxide (topical) does NOT kill RBA, but it will kill your coraline and your LR. I'm sure there is more but that is all off the top of my head.
Bottom line....what works for one does not always (and most likely never) works for another. There are too many variables to get them all the same. OH! Patience! I have very little of it but believe me, it pays off! Be patient!
Where I'm @ now:
75 gallon; temp is 78 degrees; H2O is RODI; SG 1.025; top off is straight RODI; Lights are PC's 2 actinic and 2 50/50's; I also have a strip of LED's that come on after the actinics. The cycle is 3 hrs actinic, 3.5 hrs 50/50, 2 hrs actinic, 2 hrs LED's-on the DT (display tank). The fuge is opposite and on for 5.5 hours, LEDS-blue and white. Far as specs the last reading was NO3-40ppm; NO2-0; pH-7.8; NH-.25; Kh-12; Ca-400. I feed once a day and maybe every/other. No set schedule. There is not much waste. I underfeed so they take the food as I give it (part of the reason I can't keep inverts). I feed Omega One small marine pellets.
I also have a TDS meter to check my RODI.
Ammonia-I have been told it is undetectable. I don't think this is so as I have seen issues with it before but my test kit is hard to read...
API test kits-I can't tell jack with the phosphate kit. Ammonia isn't the best either. Any recommendations? I also have been told not to bother with parameters, watch your tank...if something is off, then test-opinions?
I do not enjoy H2O changes-any advice? I currently use my ATO pump and attach a longer hose to it and then put the pump in a 32gal brute can that I mix my salt H2O in (the living room-eyesore), plug in my ATO and "fill 'er up!" If I could do it without the eyesore I would be happier. Not ready to plumb through the floor either.
I was told to leave my sand bed alone. I no longer do this. It hasn't been long so I'm not swearing by it-but I vacuum my sand every water change.
My coraline is dying off, that started (what seemed to be) a long time after I used hydrogen peroxide. Now my Ca levels are rising, I assume that is why?
The tank I have is stocked full (with machinery) as it is. I have very little HOB room left. The only possibility would be to remove something to add another. Adding a sump is not an option.
Like I said before I am looking for something to make water changes easier and also something to give me some sense of control.
I am told to take a look @ creamhorses settling tank, could anyone point me in the right direction?
Curious-Does skimming wet remove more phosphate than skimming dryer?
Far as replies to this....could you mention if the info you are stating is IMO (in my opinion) or IME (in my experience). If it is IME what were your parameters/set-up/filtration/the whole sha-bang, so I can gauge the differences.
Thanks ahead of time, I know this is long and tedious. And just in case anyone is confused on what I am trying to get from this forum....let me think for a sec....oh yeah! Advice on how to lessen water changes, or @ least make them smaller-creamhorses link please! Advice on what I have and the best way to go on USING what I have. SW is hands down EXPENSIVE, I'm at the end of my rope. Looking to make the best with what I've got. HELP!
I figure I need to look @ what I have, watch close, do NOT add any more inverts, clean regularly, watch more. Get prams stable. Then maybe up light time to increase pH. Am I going in the right direction?
Thanks again for any info.
I could just list specs here on what I currently have but I thought I'd walk you through what I have had along the way...
Started in 2008 with some sand and 3 rocks-not live. 2 clowns, 1 puffer and another magenta, yellow and purple fish. The filtration was 2 HOB 300's with carbon filters and bio wheels. Light was 2 65w PC's. I am guessing he had a couple power heads in there when I bought it (I think those are the ones I use to mix my saltwater now). The magenta fish died right out of the gate. The puffer hung around for a bit but croaked as well.
What I've done along the way...I'm not exactly sure on dates up till 6-23-09 (that is when I started my tank diary) but I added a RODI system around 8/2009 and I am not positive but I am betting over 5 years any bad stuff from the original tap water I put in there is gone. I have added around 150-200 lbs of LR over the years. Some sand but not enough to call it a DSB (deep sand bed). My pH has always been on the low side. Lowest is 7.0 (when started and when having issues) highest 8.0 (unless I use buffer/baking soda). I keep my SG @ 1.024/5. I top off with fresh RODI H2O. In 2011 I added a Remora Pro with preskim. Started out with a mag 3 but changed to a mag 5. Had a hell of a time getting skimmate for the longest time, just recently added the fuge and Viola! nice dark icky stuff! Shorly after the skimmer I added a ATO (automatic top off). I have always had an issue with temp from the lights and have since added fans on either side of my stand to blow air under the lights. I also have a lot of PHs (power heads-korailia's). 3 700's and 3 400's as well. 2 of my PHs (400's) are timed with lighting to change stuff up and the corner 700's are pointed up to lessen temp. I have added 2 more PC bulbs, 65w, so the fans are needed. (Opps forgot to add that when I added the remora I got rid of 1 of the HOB emperors)-(I got rid of the last when I swapped it out for the fuge). I then added a HOB fuge with a rio 600. It has a DSB as well as some LR; 3 different kinds of macro algae. 1st thing I did was remove the hair algae-there was no way I wanted that in my tank again, not even to eat nitrates. The fern or sword or what ever you call the long skinny macro algae that looks like a feather turned white and died right out of the gate. The cheato started following. I have since removed it from the fuge so only rock and sand in there now. I have ALWAYS had an issue with inverts. Here is a list of stuff I have gone through....Aiptasia-the peppermint ate that, he died too, but the aiptasia never returned. I have had countless hermits, red, blue and scarlets too!, nothing has survived. Far as snails I have had turbo, nacarius (I do like these), margaritas, astria, as well as cerith. I have had mushrooms, a rose bubble anemone as well as a ricordia. I had an emerald crab in there too but he didn't last long. He was originally bought to eat my red bubble algae-RBA but he didn't (my damsel did). I have the normal hitchhikers, snails, bristleworms, starfish, sponges. The RBA was a hitchhiker as well as the aiptasia.
So with all that being said.....I have learned that emerald crabs don't eat red bubble algae-damsels do. Blue hermits are bullies. Peppermint shrimp eat aiptasia. Top off with straight RODI not saltwater. Clean your sand. Blow off your rocks with a turkey baster prior to a H2O change. Peroxide (topical) does NOT kill RBA, but it will kill your coraline and your LR. I'm sure there is more but that is all off the top of my head.
Bottom line....what works for one does not always (and most likely never) works for another. There are too many variables to get them all the same. OH! Patience! I have very little of it but believe me, it pays off! Be patient!
Where I'm @ now:
75 gallon; temp is 78 degrees; H2O is RODI; SG 1.025; top off is straight RODI; Lights are PC's 2 actinic and 2 50/50's; I also have a strip of LED's that come on after the actinics. The cycle is 3 hrs actinic, 3.5 hrs 50/50, 2 hrs actinic, 2 hrs LED's-on the DT (display tank). The fuge is opposite and on for 5.5 hours, LEDS-blue and white. Far as specs the last reading was NO3-40ppm; NO2-0; pH-7.8; NH-.25; Kh-12; Ca-400. I feed once a day and maybe every/other. No set schedule. There is not much waste. I underfeed so they take the food as I give it (part of the reason I can't keep inverts). I feed Omega One small marine pellets.
I also have a TDS meter to check my RODI.
Ammonia-I have been told it is undetectable. I don't think this is so as I have seen issues with it before but my test kit is hard to read...
API test kits-I can't tell jack with the phosphate kit. Ammonia isn't the best either. Any recommendations? I also have been told not to bother with parameters, watch your tank...if something is off, then test-opinions?
I do not enjoy H2O changes-any advice? I currently use my ATO pump and attach a longer hose to it and then put the pump in a 32gal brute can that I mix my salt H2O in (the living room-eyesore), plug in my ATO and "fill 'er up!" If I could do it without the eyesore I would be happier. Not ready to plumb through the floor either.
I was told to leave my sand bed alone. I no longer do this. It hasn't been long so I'm not swearing by it-but I vacuum my sand every water change.
My coraline is dying off, that started (what seemed to be) a long time after I used hydrogen peroxide. Now my Ca levels are rising, I assume that is why?
The tank I have is stocked full (with machinery) as it is. I have very little HOB room left. The only possibility would be to remove something to add another. Adding a sump is not an option.
Like I said before I am looking for something to make water changes easier and also something to give me some sense of control.
I am told to take a look @ creamhorses settling tank, could anyone point me in the right direction?
Curious-Does skimming wet remove more phosphate than skimming dryer?
Far as replies to this....could you mention if the info you are stating is IMO (in my opinion) or IME (in my experience). If it is IME what were your parameters/set-up/filtration/the whole sha-bang, so I can gauge the differences.
Thanks ahead of time, I know this is long and tedious. And just in case anyone is confused on what I am trying to get from this forum....let me think for a sec....oh yeah! Advice on how to lessen water changes, or @ least make them smaller-creamhorses link please! Advice on what I have and the best way to go on USING what I have. SW is hands down EXPENSIVE, I'm at the end of my rope. Looking to make the best with what I've got. HELP!
I figure I need to look @ what I have, watch close, do NOT add any more inverts, clean regularly, watch more. Get prams stable. Then maybe up light time to increase pH. Am I going in the right direction?
Thanks again for any info.
Aucun commentaire:
Enregistrer un commentaire