I measured my calcium today using an API test kit. Results show i have 340 ppm. Is that too low? or should I be okay? If so, how do I raise my calcium?
jeudi 31 juillet 2014
Cleaning Rock lift built with PVC acting as return
I know many people build rock lifts which incorporate spray bars. My plan is to do a plateau lift with HDPE. I want to run my return line under the HDPE and have two openings shooting up under my two rock burms.
My current PVC returns buildup a white gunk that I clean out every so often. I can't think how that could be cleaned out if the PVC is not easily removable from the tank.
Here is a rough drawing of what I'm thinking of. You can see the two little nubs where the water would project in to the rock burms.
My question is: How do people clean out spray bars that are behind rocks etc?
I know drilling 3 holes and making a closed loop is the best solution and would eliminate the cleaning and allow better control of the flow rate but I don't feel comfortable drilling the bottom 3/4" glass on my 300g.
My current PVC returns buildup a white gunk that I clean out every so often. I can't think how that could be cleaned out if the PVC is not easily removable from the tank.
Here is a rough drawing of what I'm thinking of. You can see the two little nubs where the water would project in to the rock burms.
My question is: How do people clean out spray bars that are behind rocks etc?
I know drilling 3 holes and making a closed loop is the best solution and would eliminate the cleaning and allow better control of the flow rate but I don't feel comfortable drilling the bottom 3/4" glass on my 300g.
Nwimac Frag Swap 2014
Nwimac frag swap 2014
You're invited!
The Northwest Indiana Marine Aquarium Club has put together the first ever frag swap held in NWI
Our swap will be held on September 21st from noon until 5pm.
There will be a $5 entry fee for adults and 12 and under will be free.
Nwimac full members along with their family will gain free admission.
There will be a raffle table where tickets can be purchase that you place in boxes for you chance to will different drawings.
You're invited!
The Northwest Indiana Marine Aquarium Club has put together the first ever frag swap held in NWI
Our swap will be held on September 21st from noon until 5pm.
There will be a $5 entry fee for adults and 12 and under will be free.
Nwimac full members along with their family will gain free admission.
There will be a raffle table where tickets can be purchase that you place in boxes for you chance to will different drawings.
Return Line Manifold
I need some help from the brilliant minds on TRT.
anybody have pics, diagrams and layouts for a return line manifold?
I want to start running a couple reactors. I have a WB 7000 return pump( valved down for DT ) so I have enough power to run a couple Next Reef MR1 reactors.
Anything is welcome. Looking for ideas.
Thanks
anybody have pics, diagrams and layouts for a return line manifold?
I want to start running a couple reactors. I have a WB 7000 return pump( valved down for DT ) so I have enough power to run a couple Next Reef MR1 reactors.
Anything is welcome. Looking for ideas.
Thanks
eunicid worm?
Well guys my corals in my 3 gallon are doin great.or atleast i thought i bought a piece of live rock awhile back with just regular brown zoas it had a bunch but they slowly started fading to a few.i have been noticing at night sometimes my duncan would stay open and tonight it was closed after a wc so i turned on the light and a greyish thing was on the back and sucked back up super fast is this an eunicid worm? And since my monti was laying on the same rock could this thing have killed it to?
RO/DI failed - What to do in interim?
My Spectra-pure RO membrane failed during a water change. I think it failed right before my water change tank was full because my tap is over 200ppm and I didn't read any phosphates in new water - It was too late to measure ppm as I had already added salt. My tank was overdue for a water change so I put some Prime in the water to be safe and used it.
I have ordered a replacement but with tomorrow being Friday and Spectra-pure's standard slowness I probably won't get my filter/membrane replacement kit until the end of next week.
I'm out of top-off water and I loose about 1Gal a day to evaporation. Any suggestions on how to bridge the gap?
I have ordered a replacement but with tomorrow being Friday and Spectra-pure's standard slowness I probably won't get my filter/membrane replacement kit until the end of next week.
I'm out of top-off water and I loose about 1Gal a day to evaporation. Any suggestions on how to bridge the gap?
Setting up economy tank, what do you think
Hello everyone I would like to finally introduce myself, I have been using this amazing forum for bout a year now without posting or registering. I am now registering because I have got to a resting point on setting up a economy tank for my grandmother. Its a 55 gallon tank, now she has always wanted a reef tank but couldn't afford the equipment and did not want to mess around with checking water perimeters all the time, so I stepped up and did a lota DIY to save money and used her old equipment ( except for the lights they had to be replaced went with LED, in the center I have a 165 watt LED panel, as well as each corner having a 16 watt wave point clamp light (the center led panel was not big enough to get light to the corners. She has had the tank for bout 10 years now but when only she was taking care of it, it was fish only. I am posting pictures of our tank so you all may tell me what you think and give any pointers, everything seems to be doing really well but all the same I would like to know what the professionals say.
As you can see I am still at the frag stage nothing has grown terribly to much except for the first thing put in the waving hand on the left, and the Condylactis Anemone witch has moved now directly under the waving hand under that bridge I got setup. I apologize for the dirty overflow box just got through cleaning and got lazy lol.
The waving hand that thing is becoming a monster might have to cut it back soon, witch brings me to my first question can you just simply snip it like a bush? Also my green star polyps there they are starting to grow down onto the rock from the original frag plug
There is the newly added frogspawn my new fav, the LFS guy warned us that its specially sensitive to nitrates I used to think my nitrates where at 60 ppm so at first he said wait to buy this, however he enlightened me to the crappiness of API nitrate test, so I bought a red sea went home nitrates tested 20 ppm right along a API saying 60 ppm with the same water. So far it has been in there for almost a month and it fully open's during light hours so I think its doing well besides a little bit of algae growing on the skeleton that concerns me a little bit. The cabbage coral is doing well at first had a issue with mucus secretion but pointing the outlet from my refuigium towards it has solved the issue. Also the red polyps there are starting to divide like crazy
my yellow polyps they are doing really well, started with 9 it stayed that way 'FOREVER' that was before I slapped the refugium on. They had lots of algae growing off them cant believe they made it hardy as they come man. They snapped back 2 weeks or so after installing fuge and now I got like 30 or so polyps.
There is my leather coral and green polys, the leather coral had the same problem with mucus I didn't foresee how much flow these things really needed so I picked up a circulation fan/wave pump pointed it directly at it, it loves it polys are always extended pretty much. Also what are those ugly grey polyps by the green ones, anything bad I hope ( would give me a reason to pull them out) cause my grandma wont let me pull them out I hate them they are so ugly and nasty looking lol love the small feather dusters but not them.
There is a new addition as well pulsating Xenia witch I love to watch, at first I couldn't figure out how to get them to pulse. Looked all over online and lots of people say that its uncertain to what makes them pulse. I however have cracked it if you want them to pulse put them in stagnant water they pulse in completely still water with just the occasional current coming there way, so I just target feed them in case they are not getting enough food in the current-less corner, they seem to be doing well and are starting to grow.
There is the two color verities of mushroom polyps they seem to be doing well the purple one just split a little tiny dot that I assume will soon be a second mushroom. That green blob don't remember what the LFS guy said that was some other kind of mushroom but it has not done anything sept sit there and it has been in there almost as long as the waving hand I don't get it not very impressed with that one. Also you see what looks like a hair flowing off the left side of the rock. Thats the only one the camera picked up but they are all over the tank like hair like single worms that build themselves tubes like the feather duster they don't seem to harm anything they just wave around in the current. Any idea what they might be they are fine white worms as fine as hair, they build there tubes on rocks and even out of the sand nothing harmful I hope
That's my Refugium setup witch is completely DIY, I am interested to what you all might say about my setup. I used a 10 gallon fish tank and siliconed baffles in for compartments. Got two 20 watt LED 5000 k lamps on the cheto it seem's to be doing really well. All I have in there is the mineral mud with crushed coral over the top and the cheto algae as well as one peice of live rock anything else I should think about putting in the fuge or is that good? As for the return pump so grandma wouldn't have to spend any more money I used her 10 year old canister filter ( I replaced the impeller it works like new now) it seemed to work well the cascade 1500 can do 350 gallons a hour. I have since changed this though, in the first picture on the left side that powerhead/pump is a 10 year old RIO 1400 (it still works well but am thinking bout replacing the impeller in that as well), I took the RIO and put that into the refugium and am using it for a return pump, while I took the canister filter and put the intake in the display tank so its just a polisher now (The reasoning behind this is the canister filter would not stop blowing micro bubbles, so I decided to put it the way its designed to run pulling water from above and pumping it back up the air bubbles have slowed down to almost nothing but its only been 24 hrs so ill give it longer to completely stop.) Oh forgot to mention before you go all crazy about me having a canister filter on a reef tank there is no bio pad's or rings just a charcoal pack bio floss that I change regularly and a package of seachem nitrate gravel. Again sorry for the nasty green algae on the first baffle I cleaned that out and it has been staying squeaky clean ever since I started a round of vodka dosing in attempts to get the nitrates to 0. Last on the list to talk about is my protein skimmer its a CPR backpack it seems to work pretty good but want to get a reef octopus as soon as I can afford it. I want to change this out because its only rated for 60 gallons with my fuge its right around 60 and I hear that its best to overestimate the skimmer a bit, unfortunately it might be a while before I can replace that. Hope you all like my tank I have been working my butt off to give my grandma a spectacular tank to look at in a couple years or so :D
As you can see I am still at the frag stage nothing has grown terribly to much except for the first thing put in the waving hand on the left, and the Condylactis Anemone witch has moved now directly under the waving hand under that bridge I got setup. I apologize for the dirty overflow box just got through cleaning and got lazy lol.
The waving hand that thing is becoming a monster might have to cut it back soon, witch brings me to my first question can you just simply snip it like a bush? Also my green star polyps there they are starting to grow down onto the rock from the original frag plug
There is the newly added frogspawn my new fav, the LFS guy warned us that its specially sensitive to nitrates I used to think my nitrates where at 60 ppm so at first he said wait to buy this, however he enlightened me to the crappiness of API nitrate test, so I bought a red sea went home nitrates tested 20 ppm right along a API saying 60 ppm with the same water. So far it has been in there for almost a month and it fully open's during light hours so I think its doing well besides a little bit of algae growing on the skeleton that concerns me a little bit. The cabbage coral is doing well at first had a issue with mucus secretion but pointing the outlet from my refuigium towards it has solved the issue. Also the red polyps there are starting to divide like crazy
my yellow polyps they are doing really well, started with 9 it stayed that way 'FOREVER' that was before I slapped the refugium on. They had lots of algae growing off them cant believe they made it hardy as they come man. They snapped back 2 weeks or so after installing fuge and now I got like 30 or so polyps.
There is my leather coral and green polys, the leather coral had the same problem with mucus I didn't foresee how much flow these things really needed so I picked up a circulation fan/wave pump pointed it directly at it, it loves it polys are always extended pretty much. Also what are those ugly grey polyps by the green ones, anything bad I hope ( would give me a reason to pull them out) cause my grandma wont let me pull them out I hate them they are so ugly and nasty looking lol love the small feather dusters but not them.
There is a new addition as well pulsating Xenia witch I love to watch, at first I couldn't figure out how to get them to pulse. Looked all over online and lots of people say that its uncertain to what makes them pulse. I however have cracked it if you want them to pulse put them in stagnant water they pulse in completely still water with just the occasional current coming there way, so I just target feed them in case they are not getting enough food in the current-less corner, they seem to be doing well and are starting to grow.
There is the two color verities of mushroom polyps they seem to be doing well the purple one just split a little tiny dot that I assume will soon be a second mushroom. That green blob don't remember what the LFS guy said that was some other kind of mushroom but it has not done anything sept sit there and it has been in there almost as long as the waving hand I don't get it not very impressed with that one. Also you see what looks like a hair flowing off the left side of the rock. Thats the only one the camera picked up but they are all over the tank like hair like single worms that build themselves tubes like the feather duster they don't seem to harm anything they just wave around in the current. Any idea what they might be they are fine white worms as fine as hair, they build there tubes on rocks and even out of the sand nothing harmful I hope
That's my Refugium setup witch is completely DIY, I am interested to what you all might say about my setup. I used a 10 gallon fish tank and siliconed baffles in for compartments. Got two 20 watt LED 5000 k lamps on the cheto it seem's to be doing really well. All I have in there is the mineral mud with crushed coral over the top and the cheto algae as well as one peice of live rock anything else I should think about putting in the fuge or is that good? As for the return pump so grandma wouldn't have to spend any more money I used her 10 year old canister filter ( I replaced the impeller it works like new now) it seemed to work well the cascade 1500 can do 350 gallons a hour. I have since changed this though, in the first picture on the left side that powerhead/pump is a 10 year old RIO 1400 (it still works well but am thinking bout replacing the impeller in that as well), I took the RIO and put that into the refugium and am using it for a return pump, while I took the canister filter and put the intake in the display tank so its just a polisher now (The reasoning behind this is the canister filter would not stop blowing micro bubbles, so I decided to put it the way its designed to run pulling water from above and pumping it back up the air bubbles have slowed down to almost nothing but its only been 24 hrs so ill give it longer to completely stop.) Oh forgot to mention before you go all crazy about me having a canister filter on a reef tank there is no bio pad's or rings just a charcoal pack bio floss that I change regularly and a package of seachem nitrate gravel. Again sorry for the nasty green algae on the first baffle I cleaned that out and it has been staying squeaky clean ever since I started a round of vodka dosing in attempts to get the nitrates to 0. Last on the list to talk about is my protein skimmer its a CPR backpack it seems to work pretty good but want to get a reef octopus as soon as I can afford it. I want to change this out because its only rated for 60 gallons with my fuge its right around 60 and I hear that its best to overestimate the skimmer a bit, unfortunately it might be a while before I can replace that. Hope you all like my tank I have been working my butt off to give my grandma a spectacular tank to look at in a couple years or so :D
reef angel controller
hello guys. i need help with my new reef angel controller.
my first question is.
is the blue stick the temp and ph probe ?
i also accidentally spilled the liquid that was inside the white container and i don't know if i was just supposed to open it up and just put the stick in the water.
any help would be appreciated. thanks.
my first question is.
is the blue stick the temp and ph probe ?
i also accidentally spilled the liquid that was inside the white container and i don't know if i was just supposed to open it up and just put the stick in the water.
any help would be appreciated. thanks.
Dr. Tims One and Only….. and high nitrites
Ok. I am on day 22 of a fish less cycle in a 45g (60g total volume) system. Im using all dry rock and no substrate. I dosed ammonia to 2ppm and added Dr. Tims One and Only 22 days ago.
7 days ago I tested and got 0ppm ammonia and >5ppm nitrites. Did 25% WC (15g) and still tested at what I would call >5ppm. Dosed to 2ppm ammonia again, tested 24 hours later and saw 1.2ppm ammonia and >5ppm then had to leave until today.
When I got home I had 0ppm ammonia and >5ppm nitrites.
I say its above 5ppm because the API test says to wait 5 minutes to check results. I get the darkest purple on the chart instantly. I checked it against my established tank to verify my kit. It reads light blue - 0ppm.
Did a 33% WC because Dr Tims website says that nitrites above 5ppm will inhibit cycling. However, it still reads 5ppm (darkest purple on test) instantly!! This means I was at 7.5ppm Nitrites minimum!
I also noted that it says not to add ammonia until ammonia AND nitrites are <0.5ppm. I screwed this up:look around: I have tested for nitrates but all info says that high nitrites can skew nitrate readings.
I contacted Dr. Tims this afternoon asking for instruction on how to proceed but have not heard back yet.
Just got the idea to dilute my test sample with fresh RO to scale results to get a better idea how high above 5ppm they actually are…
It wouldn't make sense to me to change 100% water in a week during a cycle but sounds like thats what it would take to drop nitrites to less than 5ppm but then again I'm a newb and will consider any advice.
Regardless of opinions of bacterial additives I need help on moving forward from this point. I did not wish to speed cycle up by way of additives but rather to provide the system with beneficial bacteria that dry rock doesn't have. Thanks in advance
7 days ago I tested and got 0ppm ammonia and >5ppm nitrites. Did 25% WC (15g) and still tested at what I would call >5ppm. Dosed to 2ppm ammonia again, tested 24 hours later and saw 1.2ppm ammonia and >5ppm then had to leave until today.
When I got home I had 0ppm ammonia and >5ppm nitrites.
I say its above 5ppm because the API test says to wait 5 minutes to check results. I get the darkest purple on the chart instantly. I checked it against my established tank to verify my kit. It reads light blue - 0ppm.
Did a 33% WC because Dr Tims website says that nitrites above 5ppm will inhibit cycling. However, it still reads 5ppm (darkest purple on test) instantly!! This means I was at 7.5ppm Nitrites minimum!
I also noted that it says not to add ammonia until ammonia AND nitrites are <0.5ppm. I screwed this up:look around: I have tested for nitrates but all info says that high nitrites can skew nitrate readings.
I contacted Dr. Tims this afternoon asking for instruction on how to proceed but have not heard back yet.
Just got the idea to dilute my test sample with fresh RO to scale results to get a better idea how high above 5ppm they actually are…
It wouldn't make sense to me to change 100% water in a week during a cycle but sounds like thats what it would take to drop nitrites to less than 5ppm but then again I'm a newb and will consider any advice.
Regardless of opinions of bacterial additives I need help on moving forward from this point. I did not wish to speed cycle up by way of additives but rather to provide the system with beneficial bacteria that dry rock doesn't have. Thanks in advance
Help with micro bubbles
I am currently having a huge problem with micro bubbles. There is a ton of them floating around in my tank. How do i get rid of them? I have a fluval 405 canister filter on a 35 gallon hex tank. Please help!
Skimmer Output ?
55g sump, 3 compartments (skimmer, settling, return)
sump flow at 300gph (dictated by overflow)
skimmer at 500gph capacity
My question is... Would skimmer output be best released in skimmer section or plumbed over baffle direct to settling section? Thanks for any input.
sump flow at 300gph (dictated by overflow)
skimmer at 500gph capacity
My question is... Would skimmer output be best released in skimmer section or plumbed over baffle direct to settling section? Thanks for any input.
Frag fest in nwi!
If this post isn't welcome, please message me and let me know if there is a better place for it. Thanks
Hey all I want to share info about a frag swap I'm putting together.
It's Nwimac Frag Swap 2014
It's going to be held on September 21st from noon till 5pm in portage at woodland park.
Search on Facebook for the event page I have setup. I can't post the link yet.
We have over 15 vendors from indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Illinois, and Wisconsin.
We'll coloring spot for kids and 4 random pictures will win a stuffed animal.
We also have a raffle table in the works.
Entry is $5 for ages 13 and up. 12 and under free.
Hope to see you there!
Hey all I want to share info about a frag swap I'm putting together.
It's Nwimac Frag Swap 2014
It's going to be held on September 21st from noon till 5pm in portage at woodland park.
Search on Facebook for the event page I have setup. I can't post the link yet.
We have over 15 vendors from indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Illinois, and Wisconsin.
We'll coloring spot for kids and 4 random pictures will win a stuffed animal.
We also have a raffle table in the works.
Entry is $5 for ages 13 and up. 12 and under free.
Hope to see you there!
New Nano Reef Tank!
Hi guys,
So basically like the title says, I'm starting a Nano Reef Tank. I'll need all the help I can get! I've been researching for days if not weeks and I'm finally ready to get everything set up. However I could use some assistance on lighting, and some other small things. Being a college student, I am on a tight budget... However I've done my research and even with small funding, I still think I could start this hobby!
Basically this is what I want to start with
Tank
•Mr. Aqua Chic 11.4 Gallon Frameless Glass Aquarium: $59.99
Heater
•Cobalt Neo-therm 75W heater: $38.84
Powerhead
•Koralia Nano 425: $22.09-25.00 or should I do two smaller 240's?
Filtration
•Most likely some sort of HOB filter,
Lighting
I'm not really sure :arg: !! My budget for lighting is $60 or under ...not sure if this will suffice... I've been looking at t5 led type lights, but still not sure what the best is... I want to be able to keep some corals and maybe an anemone for my clown to host
Live Rock/Sand
•Will try to buy from local fish store, or from possible someone breaking apart a bigger tank..or Craigslist
Live Stock (To start out with)
•Ocellaris clownfish [1]
•Zebra Hermit Crabs [2]
•Pom Pom Crab [1]
So basically I really need help finding proper lighting for my tank..I want something sleek (possibly t5 type fixture) that will do great in keeping my corals and live stock healthy and happy! (Also possible something that I can switch to blue led's at night? That would be really cool. Remember my budget is tight and I can only afford something between the range of 50-60...
I appreciate all the help in advance!
So basically like the title says, I'm starting a Nano Reef Tank. I'll need all the help I can get! I've been researching for days if not weeks and I'm finally ready to get everything set up. However I could use some assistance on lighting, and some other small things. Being a college student, I am on a tight budget... However I've done my research and even with small funding, I still think I could start this hobby!
Basically this is what I want to start with
Tank
•Mr. Aqua Chic 11.4 Gallon Frameless Glass Aquarium: $59.99
Heater
•Cobalt Neo-therm 75W heater: $38.84
Powerhead
•Koralia Nano 425: $22.09-25.00 or should I do two smaller 240's?
Filtration
•Most likely some sort of HOB filter,
Lighting
I'm not really sure :arg: !! My budget for lighting is $60 or under ...not sure if this will suffice... I've been looking at t5 led type lights, but still not sure what the best is... I want to be able to keep some corals and maybe an anemone for my clown to host
Live Rock/Sand
•Will try to buy from local fish store, or from possible someone breaking apart a bigger tank..or Craigslist
Live Stock (To start out with)
•Ocellaris clownfish [1]
•Zebra Hermit Crabs [2]
•Pom Pom Crab [1]
So basically I really need help finding proper lighting for my tank..I want something sleek (possibly t5 type fixture) that will do great in keeping my corals and live stock healthy and happy! (Also possible something that I can switch to blue led's at night? That would be really cool. Remember my budget is tight and I can only afford something between the range of 50-60...
I appreciate all the help in advance!
Please help with Sand replacing
Hey yall, I was wondering how I would go about replacing/adding new sand to a reef tank. I have had the tank for about year or so now and I was just wondering what I would have to do? Also, I have researched some on my own. Some people say that adding new live sand to your tank can cause it to go through another cycle again. I have read that some people recommend you add dry sand to an established reef tank? I would just like to hear some ideas and see which one I should go with. When I do my weekly water change I siphon out from the bottom and my sand is finally getting to the point where it needs to be replaced. I've read some people have the same sand bed for 5+ years. However my sand needs to be siphoned because it usually has algae, or deitrus that doesn't make it look good. I currently have 2 clowns, a cleaner shrimp, frogspawn, zoas, and a green clove polyp. Thanks for the help!
P.S. I cant seem to get rid of a red Hawaiian slime algae from the bottom. Also the sand will turn a greenish color too. So I have to siphon form the bottom when I do water changes.
P.S. I cant seem to get rid of a red Hawaiian slime algae from the bottom. Also the sand will turn a greenish color too. So I have to siphon form the bottom when I do water changes.
Overstocked?! Need Opinions...
Hi, everyone! Hope your week is going well!
We are upgrading from a 75g (listed in 'Tank Specs') to a 180g. This tank is being given away and is coming with some already established residents. I really wanted some opinions on whether this tank will be mis-stocked/overstocked. All the fish are fully grown!
All together there will be:
75g
2 ocellaris clowns
2 green chromis (C. viridis)
1 bicolor angel
1 red-stripe angel
1 bicolor foxface
1 yellow coris wrasse
1 yellow tail damsel
Shrimps
3 urchins
1 chocolate chip star
+
180g
2 blue chromis (C. cyanea)
1 yellow tang
1 hippo tang (P. hepatus)
1 white faced tang (A. japonicus)
1 pink spot goby
The 180 also has some mushrooms that will be partially allocated to our 30g softy tank and traded in to our local aquaculturer/given to the LFS.
We are thinking of taking all 4 chromis to our LFS, if they will take them. Long term, we would like to get a pair of Pakistan butterflies (C. collare), but wouldn't mind getting something smaller, depending on the bioload.
Does it sound feasible?!
Kris
We are upgrading from a 75g (listed in 'Tank Specs') to a 180g. This tank is being given away and is coming with some already established residents. I really wanted some opinions on whether this tank will be mis-stocked/overstocked. All the fish are fully grown!
All together there will be:
75g
2 ocellaris clowns
2 green chromis (C. viridis)
1 bicolor angel
1 red-stripe angel
1 bicolor foxface
1 yellow coris wrasse
1 yellow tail damsel
Shrimps
3 urchins
1 chocolate chip star
+
180g
2 blue chromis (C. cyanea)
1 yellow tang
1 hippo tang (P. hepatus)
1 white faced tang (A. japonicus)
1 pink spot goby
The 180 also has some mushrooms that will be partially allocated to our 30g softy tank and traded in to our local aquaculturer/given to the LFS.
We are thinking of taking all 4 chromis to our LFS, if they will take them. Long term, we would like to get a pair of Pakistan butterflies (C. collare), but wouldn't mind getting something smaller, depending on the bioload.
Does it sound feasible?!
Kris
Replacing/Adding Sand
:freak: Hey yall, I was wondering how I would go about replacing/adding new sand to a reef tank. I have had the tank for about year or so now and I was just wondering what I would have to do? Also, I have researched some on my own. Some people say that adding new live sand to your tank can cause it to go through another cycle again. I have read that some people recommend you add dry sand to an established reef tank? I would just like to hear some ideas and see which one I should go with. When I do my weekly water change I siphon out from the bottom and my sand is finally getting to the point where it needs to be replaced. I've read some people have the same sand bed for 5+ years. However my sand needs to be siphoned because it usually has algae, or deitrus that doesn't make it look good. I currently have 2 clowns, a cleaner shrimp, frogspawn, zoas, and a green clove polyp. Thanks for the help!
P.S. I cant seem to get rid of a red Hawaiian slime algae from the bottom. Also the sand will turn a greenish color too. So I have to siphon form the bottom when I do water changes.
P.S. I cant seem to get rid of a red Hawaiian slime algae from the bottom. Also the sand will turn a greenish color too. So I have to siphon form the bottom when I do water changes.
Newbie Reefer
Hello everyone,
I am super new to the hobby, and despite the immense head ache that it's been, I am loving it thus far.
My specs are as follows:
> 55 Gallon Tank
> 60 lbs of live rock
> 80 lbs of live sand
> Cascade® 1000 Canister Filter, 265gph, with bio balls in top section.
> 1 Marineland ML90512 Maxi-Jet 1200 , 295/1300GPH powerhead
> 1 Marineland ML90510 Maxi-Jet 600 PRO, 160/750GPH powerhead
> Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light, 48 to 60-Inch set to power grower cycle. 12 hours full intensity, 15 minute sunrise/sunset, with 4 hours of 10% blue moonlight.
> 2 EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater 150W set at 76*F
> Reef Octopus BH-1000
Any insights into changes you would suggest or addons would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance and I'm glad to have found this community :)
I am super new to the hobby, and despite the immense head ache that it's been, I am loving it thus far.
My specs are as follows:
> 55 Gallon Tank
> 60 lbs of live rock
> 80 lbs of live sand
> Cascade® 1000 Canister Filter, 265gph, with bio balls in top section.
> 1 Marineland ML90512 Maxi-Jet 1200 , 295/1300GPH powerhead
> 1 Marineland ML90510 Maxi-Jet 600 PRO, 160/750GPH powerhead
> Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light, 48 to 60-Inch set to power grower cycle. 12 hours full intensity, 15 minute sunrise/sunset, with 4 hours of 10% blue moonlight.
> 2 EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater 150W set at 76*F
> Reef Octopus BH-1000
Any insights into changes you would suggest or addons would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance and I'm glad to have found this community :)
need best way to lower salinity
Hi all! I just upgraded from a 29 gallon to a 80 gallon Nuvo a month ago...I have a refractometer.....checked my salinity and it was 1.029.....I usually keep it around 1.025.....now I have been taking out 1 gallon of water from the tank and replacing it with 1 gallon of RO water....I have done 3 gallons since last night but the salinity is only at 1.028......am I doing the right thing? How many more gallons? And how fast should I be doing this? Thanks for the help!
Check out our new toys!
Check out our new toys!
We’ve got some great new products in this week so we thought we’d share some of our favorites with you today!
Eshopps Auto Top-Off Reservoir Tank
Eshopps Liquid Container 2.0 for Dosing Pumps
Innovative Marine Mesh Screen Lid and Clips
CAD Lights PLS-50 Elite Nano Pipeless Protein skimmer
Coral Viewer
Reef Octopus Waste Collector with Auto Shutoff
Reef Octopus Elite Super Cone Protein Skimmer
Reef Octopus Regal Protein Skimmers
We’ve got some great new products in this week so we thought we’d share some of our favorites with you today!
Eshopps Auto Top-Off Reservoir Tank
Eshopps Liquid Container 2.0 for Dosing Pumps
Innovative Marine Mesh Screen Lid and Clips
CAD Lights PLS-50 Elite Nano Pipeless Protein skimmer
Coral Viewer
Reef Octopus Waste Collector with Auto Shutoff
Reef Octopus Elite Super Cone Protein Skimmer
Reef Octopus Regal Protein Skimmers
6g Fluval Edge
I realized I should move my thread to here. I had and initial getting back into it thread under general discussions.
I was trying to do this as a budget build with some automation and I am trying to keep my spending down but since I have no clue what a budget nano costs I just have my costs so far.
Enjoy!
Shot of the tank first day set up and the start of the LEDs 6/15/14
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<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211532&authkey=AEKfkbAOD6IUdiY" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211528&authkey=AHZ5vgunRRYI2nc" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211533&authkey=AEx27k_AGFQ3xPU" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211529&authkey=AKqUXMu7uYfOgQM" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211530&authkey=AHZA1LaXG3w0iuA" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
I hid the powerhead in the rock on the right. 6/19/14
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<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211544&authkey=AOL31QArq3ug6Xg" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211545&authkey=AA4xMJdNE4SWXM8" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211546&authkey=AMRi_F_m6OL5vvw" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
The day the reef keeper came
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These were taken two days ago
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<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211701&authkey=ANsDl9sI7g5jN8M" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211690&authkey=AOKmjmWbJZ-J3l8" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
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<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211689&authkey=AFq0-ZJPItVE5xs" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211691&authkey=AODLmPlgV-jOcB4" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211688&authkey=APQHXpYgaMVsBx0" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211684&authkey=AAdlsR1Nddl65gg" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211686&authkey=AIxjQBB7XQPQdA4" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
Behind the scenes
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211683&authkey=AG4SGbphNt7G2uM" width="180" height="320" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211682&authkey=ANX4_bIXdTg5224" width="180" height="320" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211587&authkey=AAx7DnrwWM3jrr8" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211680&authkey=AG6Dqt83DjRK4gs" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
The real budget breakdown now is:
6g Fluval Edge $55 -Pump was Broken/Light not reef ready
PVC $5 -Repair pump
10lbs argonite sand $9
3 LEDs 2x(12k),1(blue) $10 -eBay
LED Driver $9 -eBay
160gph PH $7 -eBay
7lbs of LR $21
Pump for ATO $26
Two float switches $8
Tubing and fitting $6
Alk test kit - $18 -eBay
Calcium Test Kit $16 -eBay
Two 5g buckets $8
Amm Test Kit $9
Ph Test Kit $9
Black Ice Clown $40
3 hermits $3
Six Astrea Snails $6
Reef Controller $60 -eBay (used first gen/ temp probe)
Generic Mag float $6 -eBay
Used Heater $5
Spare new Heater $10 -eBay
one frag of GSP $5
Milli $10
BirdsNest $10
Mystery Ridge coral (Free)
Meteor Shower $10
Black Ice clown $40
Kenya tree $5
Candy Cane $10
Super Natural Monti $10
Zoas $5
2 lbs of Calcium $10
Epsom Salts $1
Baking Soda $.50
TOTAL: $462.50
I was trying to do this as a budget build with some automation and I am trying to keep my spending down but since I have no clue what a budget nano costs I just have my costs so far.
Enjoy!
Shot of the tank first day set up and the start of the LEDs 6/15/14
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<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211532&authkey=AEKfkbAOD6IUdiY" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211528&authkey=AHZ5vgunRRYI2nc" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211533&authkey=AEx27k_AGFQ3xPU" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211529&authkey=AKqUXMu7uYfOgQM" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211530&authkey=AHZA1LaXG3w0iuA" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
I hid the powerhead in the rock on the right. 6/19/14
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211543&authkey=AKkJr6CsHyZDNLI" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211544&authkey=AOL31QArq3ug6Xg" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211545&authkey=AA4xMJdNE4SWXM8" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211546&authkey=AMRi_F_m6OL5vvw" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
The day the reef keeper came
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<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211567&authkey=AIe_FFl-zCgrMiE" width="180" height="320" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
These were taken two days ago
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211696&authkey=ABu01ssJUY-CMCE" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211701&authkey=ANsDl9sI7g5jN8M" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211690&authkey=AOKmjmWbJZ-J3l8" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211692&authkey=AKK_gJlmN8ze5wQ" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211689&authkey=AFq0-ZJPItVE5xs" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211691&authkey=AODLmPlgV-jOcB4" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211688&authkey=APQHXpYgaMVsBx0" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211684&authkey=AAdlsR1Nddl65gg" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211686&authkey=AIxjQBB7XQPQdA4" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
Behind the scenes
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211683&authkey=AG4SGbphNt7G2uM" width="180" height="320" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211682&authkey=ANX4_bIXdTg5224" width="180" height="320" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211587&authkey=AAx7DnrwWM3jrr8" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://ift.tt/1ADefgp 211680&authkey=AG6Dqt83DjRK4gs" width="320" height="180" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
The real budget breakdown now is:
6g Fluval Edge $55 -Pump was Broken/Light not reef ready
PVC $5 -Repair pump
10lbs argonite sand $9
3 LEDs 2x(12k),1(blue) $10 -eBay
LED Driver $9 -eBay
160gph PH $7 -eBay
7lbs of LR $21
Pump for ATO $26
Two float switches $8
Tubing and fitting $6
Alk test kit - $18 -eBay
Calcium Test Kit $16 -eBay
Two 5g buckets $8
Amm Test Kit $9
Ph Test Kit $9
Black Ice Clown $40
3 hermits $3
Six Astrea Snails $6
Reef Controller $60 -eBay (used first gen/ temp probe)
Generic Mag float $6 -eBay
Used Heater $5
Spare new Heater $10 -eBay
one frag of GSP $5
Milli $10
BirdsNest $10
Mystery Ridge coral (Free)
Meteor Shower $10
Black Ice clown $40
Kenya tree $5
Candy Cane $10
Super Natural Monti $10
Zoas $5
2 lbs of Calcium $10
Epsom Salts $1
Baking Soda $.50
TOTAL: $462.50
Water delima
The other day my shrimp died out of the blue it seemed. A few days have gone by and my mandarin isn't looking so hot. The rest of the fish are fine though which is why I'm confused.
I checked the water parameters and everything appears to be on point. At least what I'm able to test.
Salinity - 1.026
Ammonia - ~0
Nitrites - ~0
Nitrates - ~5
PH - 8.1
I do 45g water changes every 2-3 weeks on my 200ish gallon tank.
Here is my delima...I'm not sure what is causing the sickness from my shrimp and mandarin but I would really like to do a massive water change. However I noticed the other day that my ro/di filters are going bad. I saw up to 40ppm on my tds. (I should really check that more often) Anyways I ordered new filters and should be in tomorrow or the day after. What would you personally do? Use the poorly filtered water which may or may not work or wait for the filters and hope that the mandarin pulls though whatever is going on?
I checked the water parameters and everything appears to be on point. At least what I'm able to test.
Salinity - 1.026
Ammonia - ~0
Nitrites - ~0
Nitrates - ~5
PH - 8.1
I do 45g water changes every 2-3 weeks on my 200ish gallon tank.
Here is my delima...I'm not sure what is causing the sickness from my shrimp and mandarin but I would really like to do a massive water change. However I noticed the other day that my ro/di filters are going bad. I saw up to 40ppm on my tds. (I should really check that more often) Anyways I ordered new filters and should be in tomorrow or the day after. What would you personally do? Use the poorly filtered water which may or may not work or wait for the filters and hope that the mandarin pulls though whatever is going on?
Process of adding rock to a tank
Hi guys,
Quick question. I picked up some rock near a Volcano I visited awhile back (haven't washed it down or anything yet)
Actually I just came across while clearing out some stuff. I was wondering is it possible to add this in amongst live rock? Is it even safe to do so?
If it's ok, what cautionary steps should I take before putting it in the tank?
Thanks
Quick question. I picked up some rock near a Volcano I visited awhile back (haven't washed it down or anything yet)
Actually I just came across while clearing out some stuff. I was wondering is it possible to add this in amongst live rock? Is it even safe to do so?
If it's ok, what cautionary steps should I take before putting it in the tank?
Thanks
Thursday coffee and...
Good mawnin', TRT!
Coffee is ready for the red-eye group, and some on a timer. Oatmeat with nanners, pecans, and brown sugar. Cold cereal, too! I'm telling ya, the peaches from the Upstate of SC are exceptional this year!
Off to Civitan. I think we're having a planning meeting for our September golf tourney.
Lots of love and hugs and peace to everyone.
Coffee is ready for the red-eye group, and some on a timer. Oatmeat with nanners, pecans, and brown sugar. Cold cereal, too! I'm telling ya, the peaches from the Upstate of SC are exceptional this year!
Off to Civitan. I think we're having a planning meeting for our September golf tourney.
Lots of love and hugs and peace to everyone.
Firefish question
The LFS said its best to keep 3 Firefish together, by LoveAquaria says they should me kept alone. Which should I trust?
Removal of flatworms on plate coral
My tank was getting overrun with flatworms a few months ago, but I had a horrid experience with Flatworm Exit. However, it did get rid of most of the flatworms except for the ones stuck to my long tentacle plate coral.
I tried sucking them off with a baster originally, but damaged some tentacles, so that idea was out. Then I tried blowing them off with the baster, but they would hold their grip.
Tonight, while doing a water change, I noticed the plate coral was shriveled up with the spines showing, as it sometimes does and while using the baster to blow sand of the coral, I noticed the flatworms were blowing off it and into the water column. So, I continued with a nice sturdy surge from the baster and sucked up the worms with my hose attachment as I was emptying tank water. The worms apparently have less of a stronghold on the coral when it's in that shriveled, retracted stage.
The plate coral looked "happy" afterwards and I was amazed to find that I'd eradicated about 80% of the worms.
So, if you have flatworms on your plate corals and don't wish to damage them, wait until they are "shriveled up" and then try blowing them off and sucking them up.
Not sure anybody's done this before and mentioned it here, but I've only been keeping a reef tank just under 2 years now, so it may not be anything new, but you never know, so thought I'd share this.
I tried sucking them off with a baster originally, but damaged some tentacles, so that idea was out. Then I tried blowing them off with the baster, but they would hold their grip.
Tonight, while doing a water change, I noticed the plate coral was shriveled up with the spines showing, as it sometimes does and while using the baster to blow sand of the coral, I noticed the flatworms were blowing off it and into the water column. So, I continued with a nice sturdy surge from the baster and sucked up the worms with my hose attachment as I was emptying tank water. The worms apparently have less of a stronghold on the coral when it's in that shriveled, retracted stage.
The plate coral looked "happy" afterwards and I was amazed to find that I'd eradicated about 80% of the worms.
So, if you have flatworms on your plate corals and don't wish to damage them, wait until they are "shriveled up" and then try blowing them off and sucking them up.
Not sure anybody's done this before and mentioned it here, but I've only been keeping a reef tank just under 2 years now, so it may not be anything new, but you never know, so thought I'd share this.
mercredi 30 juillet 2014
Using cpvc cement /bad good?
I'm putting together the plumbing for my 150 gallon tank I'm using 1" PVC and I'm using a CPVC Cement to put it together I'm half way done! I'm just wondering if that's bad of good for my tank? Will it leach into my water or it shouldn't be a problem? Please help me out I hope it's ok bc I already set most of everything already! Please get back to me .
Filtration system for 125 gallon
All,
I am starting a Salt Water tank and would like to know what the best filtration system would be for it. My plans for now are to have fish, live rock, and eventually coral when I have the experience. Would a sump be the best type of system? It will also be in the living room so I would like to try and keep it quiet. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jake
I am starting a Salt Water tank and would like to know what the best filtration system would be for it. My plans for now are to have fish, live rock, and eventually coral when I have the experience. Would a sump be the best type of system? It will also be in the living room so I would like to try and keep it quiet. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jake
75 gal. FOWLR-need advice
I have a 75g FOWLR. I originally wanted to set it up with softies after I got the hang of things but I am barely hanging on. Don't get me wrong, my tank is beautiful but it only has 3 fish. Anyway...I'm having issues with filtration. Until I can get that down to where I feel I have some control I am lost.
I could just list specs here on what I currently have but I thought I'd walk you through what I have had along the way...
Started in 2008 with some sand and 3 rocks-not live. 2 clowns, 1 puffer and another magenta, yellow and purple fish. The filtration was 2 HOB 300's with carbon filters and bio wheels. Light was 2 65w PC's. I am guessing he had a couple power heads in there when I bought it (I think those are the ones I use to mix my saltwater now). The magenta fish died right out of the gate. The puffer hung around for a bit but croaked as well.
What I've done along the way...I'm not exactly sure on dates up till 6-23-09 (that is when I started my tank diary) but I added a RODI system around 8/2009 and I am not positive but I am betting over 5 years any bad stuff from the original tap water I put in there is gone. I have added around 150-200 lbs of LR over the years. Some sand but not enough to call it a DSB (deep sand bed). My pH has always been on the low side. Lowest is 7.0 (when started and when having issues) highest 8.0 (unless I use buffer/baking soda). I keep my SG @ 1.024/5. I top off with fresh RODI H2O. In 2011 I added a Remora Pro with preskim. Started out with a mag 3 but changed to a mag 5. Had a hell of a time getting skimmate for the longest time, just recently added the fuge and Viola! nice dark icky stuff! Shorly after the skimmer I added a ATO (automatic top off). I have always had an issue with temp from the lights and have since added fans on either side of my stand to blow air under the lights. I also have a lot of PHs (power heads-korailia's). 3 700's and 3 400's as well. 2 of my PHs (400's) are timed with lighting to change stuff up and the corner 700's are pointed up to lessen temp. I have added 2 more PC bulbs, 65w, so the fans are needed. (Opps forgot to add that when I added the remora I got rid of 1 of the HOB emperors)-(I got rid of the last when I swapped it out for the fuge). I then added a HOB fuge with a rio 600. It has a DSB as well as some LR; 3 different kinds of macro algae. 1st thing I did was remove the hair algae-there was no way I wanted that in my tank again, not even to eat nitrates. The fern or sword or what ever you call the long skinny macro algae that looks like a feather turned white and died right out of the gate. The cheato started following. I have since removed it from the fuge so only rock and sand in there now. I have ALWAYS had an issue with inverts. Here is a list of stuff I have gone through....Aiptasia-the peppermint ate that, he died too, but the aiptasia never returned. I have had countless hermits, red, blue and scarlets too!, nothing has survived. Far as snails I have had turbo, nacarius (I do like these), margaritas, astria, as well as cerith. I have had mushrooms, a rose bubble anemone as well as a ricordia. I had an emerald crab in there too but he didn't last long. He was originally bought to eat my red bubble algae-RBA but he didn't (my damsel did). I have the normal hitchhikers, snails, bristleworms, starfish, sponges. The RBA was a hitchhiker as well as the aiptasia.
So with all that being said.....I have learned that emerald crabs don't eat red bubble algae-damsels do. Blue hermits are bullies. Peppermint shrimp eat aiptasia. Top off with straight RODI not saltwater. Clean your sand. Blow off your rocks with a turkey baster prior to a H2O change. Peroxide (topical) does NOT kill RBA, but it will kill your coraline and your LR. I'm sure there is more but that is all off the top of my head.
Bottom line....what works for one does not always (and most likely never) works for another. There are too many variables to get them all the same. OH! Patience! I have very little of it but believe me, it pays off! Be patient!
Where I'm @ now:
75 gallon; temp is 78 degrees; H2O is RODI; SG 1.025; top off is straight RODI; Lights are PC's 2 actinic and 2 50/50's; I also have a strip of LED's that come on after the actinics. The cycle is 3 hrs actinic, 3.5 hrs 50/50, 2 hrs actinic, 2 hrs LED's-on the DT (display tank). The fuge is opposite and on for 5.5 hours, LEDS-blue and white. Far as specs the last reading was NO3-40ppm; NO2-0; pH-7.8; NH-.25; Kh-12; Ca-400. I feed once a day and maybe every/other. No set schedule. There is not much waste. I underfeed so they take the food as I give it (part of the reason I can't keep inverts). I feed Omega One small marine pellets.
I also have a TDS meter to check my RODI.
Ammonia-I have been told it is undetectable. I don't think this is so as I have seen issues with it before but my test kit is hard to read...
API test kits-I can't tell jack with the phosphate kit. Ammonia isn't the best either. Any recommendations? I also have been told not to bother with parameters, watch your tank...if something is off, then test-opinions?
I do not enjoy H2O changes-any advice? I currently use my ATO pump and attach a longer hose to it and then put the pump in a 32gal brute can that I mix my salt H2O in (the living room-eyesore), plug in my ATO and "fill 'er up!" If I could do it without the eyesore I would be happier. Not ready to plumb through the floor either.
I was told to leave my sand bed alone. I no longer do this. It hasn't been long so I'm not swearing by it-but I vacuum my sand every water change.
My coraline is dying off, that started (what seemed to be) a long time after I used hydrogen peroxide. Now my Ca levels are rising, I assume that is why?
The tank I have is stocked full (with machinery) as it is. I have very little HOB room left. The only possibility would be to remove something to add another. Adding a sump is not an option.
Like I said before I am looking for something to make water changes easier and also something to give me some sense of control.
I am told to take a look @ creamhorses settling tank, could anyone point me in the right direction?
Curious-Does skimming wet remove more phosphate than skimming dryer?
Far as replies to this....could you mention if the info you are stating is IMO (in my opinion) or IME (in my experience). If it is IME what were your parameters/set-up/filtration/the whole sha-bang, so I can gauge the differences.
Thanks ahead of time, I know this is long and tedious. And just in case anyone is confused on what I am trying to get from this forum....let me think for a sec....oh yeah! Advice on how to lessen water changes, or @ least make them smaller-creamhorses link please! Advice on what I have and the best way to go on USING what I have. SW is hands down EXPENSIVE, I'm at the end of my rope. Looking to make the best with what I've got. HELP!
I figure I need to look @ what I have, watch close, do NOT add any more inverts, clean regularly, watch more. Get prams stable. Then maybe up light time to increase pH. Am I going in the right direction?
Thanks again for any info.
I could just list specs here on what I currently have but I thought I'd walk you through what I have had along the way...
Started in 2008 with some sand and 3 rocks-not live. 2 clowns, 1 puffer and another magenta, yellow and purple fish. The filtration was 2 HOB 300's with carbon filters and bio wheels. Light was 2 65w PC's. I am guessing he had a couple power heads in there when I bought it (I think those are the ones I use to mix my saltwater now). The magenta fish died right out of the gate. The puffer hung around for a bit but croaked as well.
What I've done along the way...I'm not exactly sure on dates up till 6-23-09 (that is when I started my tank diary) but I added a RODI system around 8/2009 and I am not positive but I am betting over 5 years any bad stuff from the original tap water I put in there is gone. I have added around 150-200 lbs of LR over the years. Some sand but not enough to call it a DSB (deep sand bed). My pH has always been on the low side. Lowest is 7.0 (when started and when having issues) highest 8.0 (unless I use buffer/baking soda). I keep my SG @ 1.024/5. I top off with fresh RODI H2O. In 2011 I added a Remora Pro with preskim. Started out with a mag 3 but changed to a mag 5. Had a hell of a time getting skimmate for the longest time, just recently added the fuge and Viola! nice dark icky stuff! Shorly after the skimmer I added a ATO (automatic top off). I have always had an issue with temp from the lights and have since added fans on either side of my stand to blow air under the lights. I also have a lot of PHs (power heads-korailia's). 3 700's and 3 400's as well. 2 of my PHs (400's) are timed with lighting to change stuff up and the corner 700's are pointed up to lessen temp. I have added 2 more PC bulbs, 65w, so the fans are needed. (Opps forgot to add that when I added the remora I got rid of 1 of the HOB emperors)-(I got rid of the last when I swapped it out for the fuge). I then added a HOB fuge with a rio 600. It has a DSB as well as some LR; 3 different kinds of macro algae. 1st thing I did was remove the hair algae-there was no way I wanted that in my tank again, not even to eat nitrates. The fern or sword or what ever you call the long skinny macro algae that looks like a feather turned white and died right out of the gate. The cheato started following. I have since removed it from the fuge so only rock and sand in there now. I have ALWAYS had an issue with inverts. Here is a list of stuff I have gone through....Aiptasia-the peppermint ate that, he died too, but the aiptasia never returned. I have had countless hermits, red, blue and scarlets too!, nothing has survived. Far as snails I have had turbo, nacarius (I do like these), margaritas, astria, as well as cerith. I have had mushrooms, a rose bubble anemone as well as a ricordia. I had an emerald crab in there too but he didn't last long. He was originally bought to eat my red bubble algae-RBA but he didn't (my damsel did). I have the normal hitchhikers, snails, bristleworms, starfish, sponges. The RBA was a hitchhiker as well as the aiptasia.
So with all that being said.....I have learned that emerald crabs don't eat red bubble algae-damsels do. Blue hermits are bullies. Peppermint shrimp eat aiptasia. Top off with straight RODI not saltwater. Clean your sand. Blow off your rocks with a turkey baster prior to a H2O change. Peroxide (topical) does NOT kill RBA, but it will kill your coraline and your LR. I'm sure there is more but that is all off the top of my head.
Bottom line....what works for one does not always (and most likely never) works for another. There are too many variables to get them all the same. OH! Patience! I have very little of it but believe me, it pays off! Be patient!
Where I'm @ now:
75 gallon; temp is 78 degrees; H2O is RODI; SG 1.025; top off is straight RODI; Lights are PC's 2 actinic and 2 50/50's; I also have a strip of LED's that come on after the actinics. The cycle is 3 hrs actinic, 3.5 hrs 50/50, 2 hrs actinic, 2 hrs LED's-on the DT (display tank). The fuge is opposite and on for 5.5 hours, LEDS-blue and white. Far as specs the last reading was NO3-40ppm; NO2-0; pH-7.8; NH-.25; Kh-12; Ca-400. I feed once a day and maybe every/other. No set schedule. There is not much waste. I underfeed so they take the food as I give it (part of the reason I can't keep inverts). I feed Omega One small marine pellets.
I also have a TDS meter to check my RODI.
Ammonia-I have been told it is undetectable. I don't think this is so as I have seen issues with it before but my test kit is hard to read...
API test kits-I can't tell jack with the phosphate kit. Ammonia isn't the best either. Any recommendations? I also have been told not to bother with parameters, watch your tank...if something is off, then test-opinions?
I do not enjoy H2O changes-any advice? I currently use my ATO pump and attach a longer hose to it and then put the pump in a 32gal brute can that I mix my salt H2O in (the living room-eyesore), plug in my ATO and "fill 'er up!" If I could do it without the eyesore I would be happier. Not ready to plumb through the floor either.
I was told to leave my sand bed alone. I no longer do this. It hasn't been long so I'm not swearing by it-but I vacuum my sand every water change.
My coraline is dying off, that started (what seemed to be) a long time after I used hydrogen peroxide. Now my Ca levels are rising, I assume that is why?
The tank I have is stocked full (with machinery) as it is. I have very little HOB room left. The only possibility would be to remove something to add another. Adding a sump is not an option.
Like I said before I am looking for something to make water changes easier and also something to give me some sense of control.
I am told to take a look @ creamhorses settling tank, could anyone point me in the right direction?
Curious-Does skimming wet remove more phosphate than skimming dryer?
Far as replies to this....could you mention if the info you are stating is IMO (in my opinion) or IME (in my experience). If it is IME what were your parameters/set-up/filtration/the whole sha-bang, so I can gauge the differences.
Thanks ahead of time, I know this is long and tedious. And just in case anyone is confused on what I am trying to get from this forum....let me think for a sec....oh yeah! Advice on how to lessen water changes, or @ least make them smaller-creamhorses link please! Advice on what I have and the best way to go on USING what I have. SW is hands down EXPENSIVE, I'm at the end of my rope. Looking to make the best with what I've got. HELP!
I figure I need to look @ what I have, watch close, do NOT add any more inverts, clean regularly, watch more. Get prams stable. Then maybe up light time to increase pH. Am I going in the right direction?
Thanks again for any info.
amount of flow for a 36 gallon?
how much flow would i need for a 36 gallon SPS LPS mixed reef i was thinking of using a jebao wp-10 and a hydor koralia 600
http://ift.tt/1oOgwR3
http://ift.tt/1leQiSH
http://ift.tt/1oOgwR3
http://ift.tt/1leQiSH
Filtration system for 125 gallon
All,
I am starting a Salt Water tank and would like to know what the best filtration system would be for it. My plans for now are to have fish, live rock, and eventually coral when I have the experience. Would a sump be the best type of system? It will also be in the living room so I would like to try and keep it quiet. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jake
I am starting a Salt Water tank and would like to know what the best filtration system would be for it. My plans for now are to have fish, live rock, and eventually coral when I have the experience. Would a sump be the best type of system? It will also be in the living room so I would like to try and keep it quiet. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jake
20long coral suggestions?
I have had my tank set up for almost 10 months and had a clown in for a while but now want coral. so the tank now has no fish and a few corals: baseball size gsp rock, few zoo polyps and a frag of trumpet with about 5 heads. plenty of light for anything (leds). don't want very difficult corals but any kinds. softies, lps, sps. thanks guys!
Posted from Thereeftank.com App for Android
Posted from Thereeftank.com App for Android
Sick Coral
I have a beautiful colt finger coral. It has grown tremendously over the past 8 months into a tree with lots of limbs.
However, over the past two days it has not opened up after the lights come on. It has stayed in the shrunken, sleep state. If anyone can give me some idea of what to do I would appreciate it.
I have other corals in the tank that are doing fine.:cry:
However, over the past two days it has not opened up after the lights come on. It has stayed in the shrunken, sleep state. If anyone can give me some idea of what to do I would appreciate it.
I have other corals in the tank that are doing fine.:cry:
Sump Building
Hey Guys, tomorrow I'll be picking up the stuff I need to turn my 20G long into my new sump, it will be pretty basic with my drain coming into the skimmer section and a bubble trap to seperate the skimmer from the return section.
Are there any guidelines for how big each section should be? Other than big enough for the skimmer/return pump? and for the bubble trap, do I need the third baffle to make it an over-under-over? or are two baffles setup as an over-under good enough? Also how much space should I leave between the baffles?
Right now I am using a 15 gallon with no baffles for a sump, no skimmer at the moment either since i snapped the impeller shaft :doh: and a problem I'm having is I can watch detrius come down the drain, float across the sump and get sucked up by the return and go back up into the tank. I'm hoping that adding the baffles, having a longer sump and eventually getting the skimmer going again will help stuff to settle more.
Are there any guidelines for how big each section should be? Other than big enough for the skimmer/return pump? and for the bubble trap, do I need the third baffle to make it an over-under-over? or are two baffles setup as an over-under good enough? Also how much space should I leave between the baffles?
Right now I am using a 15 gallon with no baffles for a sump, no skimmer at the moment either since i snapped the impeller shaft :doh: and a problem I'm having is I can watch detrius come down the drain, float across the sump and get sucked up by the return and go back up into the tank. I'm hoping that adding the baffles, having a longer sump and eventually getting the skimmer going again will help stuff to settle more.
High TDS in ATO water
Today I replaced my 5 gal bucket of rodi for my ATO. Never thought to check the TDS while the water is in place. I ALWAYS monitor the water when Im making water but never thought to check it say 1/2 way thru the bucket. Last week when it was made it was 0 TDS, 1 week later, 4 gal used, I checked the last gal or so and it was 117 tds. Anyone monitor their ATO water for TDS while being used? Maybe I need to go to a smaller bucket and change more often..5 gal is perfect for a weeks worth for me.
Need an ID
Hi! New here but not new to the hobby. My tanks have always been fish only but this go around have decided to do corals and the sort. Yesterday I was given a leather and a GSP. The GSP has a few mystery (to me) "holes" in it. There is no open polyps where these are. The "holes" close and open but nothing has shown itself from them. I do not know if they are keeping the polyps from opening or if what I am thinking is green algae is.
If they are bad, would a fresh water dip work? Thank You for the help!
If they are bad, would a fresh water dip work? Thank You for the help!
my common clown is nipping my star fish any help or advice
Hi just wanted some advice on my clown eating my star fish any help or advice would be appreciated
New to Saltwater
All,
I am new to the Saltwater world and am looking at setting up a 150 gallon tank. I am starting to make a list of things that I need to get for the tank. Right now the only thing I have is the tank. I would like to know what type of filter system would be best as I am planning on eventually having coral in the tank as well as live rock and fish. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
I am new to the Saltwater world and am looking at setting up a 150 gallon tank. I am starting to make a list of things that I need to get for the tank. Right now the only thing I have is the tank. I would like to know what type of filter system would be best as I am planning on eventually having coral in the tank as well as live rock and fish. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
RODI Question
Just hooked up my new Spectrapure system. Not sure I did it correctly. Creating about two gallons of waste water per cup of rodi. Is that right? Did i do something wrong? And is the waste water good for anthing? Seems wasteful...
Testing my water
20 long gallon tank. Has been running for a month and 2 weeks. I have live rock about 18 pounds. I have 3 peppermint shrimp. 1 horseshoe crab 1 Mexican turbo snail. 2 damsels. Please anyone can give me their thoughts on my water? Also my salt level is at 22.5. I have attached a picture. Technical difficulties. Not letting me attach photo.
Can I Scrub My Live Rock ???
Hello Everyone.
It's been ages since I have posted a question. Yes I am still in the salt water hobby, my tank is a few years old now and I want to move to another tank. I want to go from a 50 to a 90. I am reading thru the threads because I am considering a BB tank but gosh it's such a hot topic. Sigh. :lol:
My question is this......my live rock needs a good scrubbing. It's filled with dust and it just doesn't look good. Can I actually get a scrub brush and scrub my live rock without hurting it? Some pieces ( just a few ) have algae but they look covered in Silt for lack of a better word. Can I scrub them down or should I just shake them good in water and put into the new tank? Thanks to all who respond.
Well I guess I need to ditch Happy New Year 2014 lololol.
Julia:D
It's been ages since I have posted a question. Yes I am still in the salt water hobby, my tank is a few years old now and I want to move to another tank. I want to go from a 50 to a 90. I am reading thru the threads because I am considering a BB tank but gosh it's such a hot topic. Sigh. :lol:
My question is this......my live rock needs a good scrubbing. It's filled with dust and it just doesn't look good. Can I actually get a scrub brush and scrub my live rock without hurting it? Some pieces ( just a few ) have algae but they look covered in Silt for lack of a better word. Can I scrub them down or should I just shake them good in water and put into the new tank? Thanks to all who respond.
Well I guess I need to ditch Happy New Year 2014 lololol.
Julia:D
10 month old 20 gallon, Top 5 Questions!
Hi guys, this is my first post after reading and snooping for several years now. I have taken bits and pieces of a lot of threads trying to create the best chance for life and growth in my tank. I was hoping you all could answer my last couple of questions. I allow a lot of time before I introduce new livestock and believe that is key to why my numbers are generally so stable. My goals right now are to add color color color, maybe one day go hard corals but I'm thinking more bubble anemone in my future and colorful fish.
Here is my tank and specs:
(I can't upload a pic of my tank here but it is in my album along with some other pics of my livestock, lights, etc.)
20 gallon
1 Aquaclear 10 powerhead
1 Aqueon 20 gallon in tank power filter
1 Aqueon heater 50W
1 Actinic F14-T5-BP 120V light
1 10,000K F14-T5-BP 120V light - these are both on from 8 am to 8 pm.
15-20 lbs live rock
20 lbs live sand
Livestock:
3 damsels, (first two original to tank to cycle it, third bought about 3 months ago) I feed them twice a day, at about 7:30 am and 7:30 pm.
1 lawnmower blenny (3 months in tank)
CUC-
4 blue legged hermit crabs (2 - 3 months in tank, 2-new)
1 turbo snail (about 3 months in tank after my ceriths died)
1 shrimp - not sure of species but he barely does anything but sit on or near the heater all day and night. He doesn't clean, just eats the brine dust that comes his way.
1 Nassarius that's been in the tank one week
SPS-
1 patch of button polyps (one week in tank)
1 green mushroom (one wk in tank)
1 red mushroom (one wk in tank)
I've had some starfish come and go - I believe the emerald crab I had was eating them and the ceriths. Currently I have some sand dwelling brittle star fish that rarely come out unless I move stuff.
I was just refilling evaporation and had never done a partial water change until this weekend. I always have good numbers:
80 degrees constant, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates, 0 nitrites, 8.1 ph, 1.024 -1.025 sal. (This weekend it had been creeping up to 1.026 and I was refilling with just de-chlorinated water so I'm not sure what was going on with that. But I believe that played a factor in my emerald crab dying off.) I didn't realize that even if my numbers were good that the salt water mix would be adding a lot of minerals that the tank needed so I did a 4 gallon water change the day after I acclimated all my new SPS. I am dosing Ca every two days because I really have no coralline growth since this past weekend.
So here's my questions:
1. Does anything look array with how I'm keeping my tank?
2. Are my lights strong enough for my sps to grow? I believe they are 14 Watts, there's a pic of them in my albums that I'm not allowed to link to just yet. But they are 1 Actinic F14-T5-BP 120V light and 1 10,000K F14-T5-BP 120V light
3. I want moonlight! What is the easiest way to add some moonlight to this tank? Also, financially pleasing! lol
4. I vacuumed my sand for the first time this weekend because I had always heard that your sandbed has just a ton of organisms and systems that you don't want to ruin, but then again I read it can't filter water if it's totally clogged up with too much stuff. What is your opinion and if you do it, how often? Does anyone recommend only disturbing the front for clean appearances?
5. I have a power head that I feel could be stronger for my size tank; however I'd really like a wave maker right now. Should I leave my wimpy Aquaclear 10 power head and ADD a wavemaker, take out the power head and add a wavemaker that serves as both, or do I not need a wavemaker for a tank of my size? I can't spend over $50 on a wavemaker - suggestions?
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you guys! I'm so excited to finally be a member of this community and can't wait to hear your opinions!
Here is my tank and specs:
(I can't upload a pic of my tank here but it is in my album along with some other pics of my livestock, lights, etc.)
20 gallon
1 Aquaclear 10 powerhead
1 Aqueon 20 gallon in tank power filter
1 Aqueon heater 50W
1 Actinic F14-T5-BP 120V light
1 10,000K F14-T5-BP 120V light - these are both on from 8 am to 8 pm.
15-20 lbs live rock
20 lbs live sand
Livestock:
3 damsels, (first two original to tank to cycle it, third bought about 3 months ago) I feed them twice a day, at about 7:30 am and 7:30 pm.
1 lawnmower blenny (3 months in tank)
CUC-
4 blue legged hermit crabs (2 - 3 months in tank, 2-new)
1 turbo snail (about 3 months in tank after my ceriths died)
1 shrimp - not sure of species but he barely does anything but sit on or near the heater all day and night. He doesn't clean, just eats the brine dust that comes his way.
1 Nassarius that's been in the tank one week
SPS-
1 patch of button polyps (one week in tank)
1 green mushroom (one wk in tank)
1 red mushroom (one wk in tank)
I've had some starfish come and go - I believe the emerald crab I had was eating them and the ceriths. Currently I have some sand dwelling brittle star fish that rarely come out unless I move stuff.
I was just refilling evaporation and had never done a partial water change until this weekend. I always have good numbers:
80 degrees constant, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates, 0 nitrites, 8.1 ph, 1.024 -1.025 sal. (This weekend it had been creeping up to 1.026 and I was refilling with just de-chlorinated water so I'm not sure what was going on with that. But I believe that played a factor in my emerald crab dying off.) I didn't realize that even if my numbers were good that the salt water mix would be adding a lot of minerals that the tank needed so I did a 4 gallon water change the day after I acclimated all my new SPS. I am dosing Ca every two days because I really have no coralline growth since this past weekend.
So here's my questions:
1. Does anything look array with how I'm keeping my tank?
2. Are my lights strong enough for my sps to grow? I believe they are 14 Watts, there's a pic of them in my albums that I'm not allowed to link to just yet. But they are 1 Actinic F14-T5-BP 120V light and 1 10,000K F14-T5-BP 120V light
3. I want moonlight! What is the easiest way to add some moonlight to this tank? Also, financially pleasing! lol
4. I vacuumed my sand for the first time this weekend because I had always heard that your sandbed has just a ton of organisms and systems that you don't want to ruin, but then again I read it can't filter water if it's totally clogged up with too much stuff. What is your opinion and if you do it, how often? Does anyone recommend only disturbing the front for clean appearances?
5. I have a power head that I feel could be stronger for my size tank; however I'd really like a wave maker right now. Should I leave my wimpy Aquaclear 10 power head and ADD a wavemaker, take out the power head and add a wavemaker that serves as both, or do I not need a wavemaker for a tank of my size? I can't spend over $50 on a wavemaker - suggestions?
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you guys! I'm so excited to finally be a member of this community and can't wait to hear your opinions!
Caulk to use?
I'm getting ready to goto the hardware store for sump supplies to make baffles and get the top to my new stand I made last night and more wood to make a canopy, but I have read on here not to use caulk that smells like vinegar or something like that? All I know is the caulk that I bought last time was the wrong stuff (smelled like vinegar) so what should I be looking for?
I'll also be getting a subway sandwich if anyone wants one..
I'll also be getting a subway sandwich if anyone wants one..
water change or should i wait it out?
Hello, I'm new here. I just started my 25g hex acrylic tank 2 weeks ago. I'm doing a fishless cycle with dr. Tims ammonium chloride. My only concern is that my nitrites might be too high, I've dose the ammonia to 3ppm the first time once it went down to 1ppm I dosed it back to 2ppm & on the 3rd day I got a nitrite spike by the 5th day it was off the chart, ever since i have dose 1ppm everytime it hits to 0 & about 5 days straight the ammonia hits 0 overnight so I re dose 1ppm everyday now. I've read that if nitrites are too high it might stall your cycle so that comes to the question should i do a water change or am I on the right track & I should wait it out. I am now on day 15 & nitrites been off the chart since day 5.
My tank has only 20 pounds of base dry rock & 20 pounds of live sand. Ph 8.2 throughout the cycle. Ammonia 0. Nitrite 5+. Salinity 1.024
My tank has only 20 pounds of base dry rock & 20 pounds of live sand. Ph 8.2 throughout the cycle. Ammonia 0. Nitrite 5+. Salinity 1.024
Dry rock available in Portland
Hey all. I purchased 100lbs of Aquamaxx dry rock for my new system. I then saw some awesome fully cured LR at my LFS in Salem, so I purchased 200lbs of that. Ungodly pricing..... I'm ashamed and my bank account hates me.
So, if anyone needs some dry rock and is willing to drive to Portland. I will sell it cheap! It's great rock. I'll probably keep a little of it, but will sell about 75lbs.
So, if anyone needs some dry rock and is willing to drive to Portland. I will sell it cheap! It's great rock. I'll probably keep a little of it, but will sell about 75lbs.
Help with 28 gallon biorb
I just set up my first salt tank in a 28 gallon biorb, no sand just about 25 lbs of live rock, and after cycling pair O.clownfish, 2 damsels, a cleaner and a firecracker shrimp, various hermit crabs, snails, snail-looking things and baby starfish that came as hitch-hikers. Oh and some zoanthids and mushroom corals. I added tigger pods and brine shrimp but who knows how many survived the damsels. I'm using the lights and filters that came with the tank. Ammonia and nitrites zero. Been running for 2 weeks. So....
1. How often and what to feed, add to water?
2. Water changes?
3. Any more equipment needed?
4. What else do I need to test for?
5. Can I add 3 chromis? 5?
Any info will help the impending doom I feel will surely descend soon.
1. How often and what to feed, add to water?
2. Water changes?
3. Any more equipment needed?
4. What else do I need to test for?
5. Can I add 3 chromis? 5?
Any info will help the impending doom I feel will surely descend soon.
Reef at a hault
I've had my reef tank for over about two years now 90G. I had to go away to college so my parents have been "caring" for the tank. I was dosing a two part A and B calcium alkalinity solution, but since ive been in school my parents ran into a problem and over dosed, so i stopped the dosing and now that im here for summer break im trying to get the tank back to normal. Water parameters seem ok pH is low and calcium is a bit high but nothing too crazy. My local reef store recently closed and because of this i have to change to dosing kalkwasser. I also bought Calcium and pH buffer. This seems much more complicated then what i expected. Ive done research online and i see many people simply use a 1teaspoon:1Gallon ratio for the Kalk and drip the solution into the tank using a gravity fed valve. Is this method ok? How long do I let the drip dose the tank for? Im just a bit overwhelmed and need some pointers.:(
BRS Dry base rock
Hey guys, I used BRS dry base rock without cycling it like a dumba** :doh: and now have high nitrates and detectable phosphates (Hannah checker). Would weekly water changes be enough to eventually overcome this? Or am I doomed to take out all of the rock and recycle it in a trashcan? Thank you!
cycling a tank
should i cyckle my tank with the power heads and uv lights on and also would it be a good idea to add a few inverts during this process.
ReefKeeper Light Setup
Hello all - What are the standard settings for the Reefkeeper lights? I am just wondering on the usual cycle times, ramp up, ramp down, etc. I want to be sure I am optimizing the lighting and gradually increasing. I have seen some deterioration in my corals (frogspawn, polyps, etc) and am wondering if I need to ramp it up, or if my light is too strong.
I believe right now my current max is at 1pm, hitting something like 50 50 on each spectrum.
I believe right now my current max is at 1pm, hitting something like 50 50 on each spectrum.
Wednesday lookin' atcha
Good mawnin', TRT!
Coffee is on. Let's have a mid-week hot breakfast. Egg and cheese biscuits (oh yeh, there are meat choices too), yummy tropical fruit cup, too!
Dick - Thanks for that rhododendron photo yesterday!
Dave and Carl - Sorry to hear about the pet problems yesterday.
Bobbi and I are going to visit our oldest brother in Northern VA on Friday. Will come back next Tuesday. Really looking forward to visiting family.
Lots of love and hugs and peace to everyone.
Coffee is on. Let's have a mid-week hot breakfast. Egg and cheese biscuits (oh yeh, there are meat choices too), yummy tropical fruit cup, too!
Dick - Thanks for that rhododendron photo yesterday!
Dave and Carl - Sorry to hear about the pet problems yesterday.
Bobbi and I are going to visit our oldest brother in Northern VA on Friday. Will come back next Tuesday. Really looking forward to visiting family.
Lots of love and hugs and peace to everyone.
help flower pot coral
well for a while my flower pot just has black spot in places, i don't what going on. and i wanted to upload a picture but it keeps saying it failed . so if you guys can also tell me how to post them.
mardi 29 juillet 2014
HOB protein skimmer?
I'm finally giving in and wanting to get a HOB skimmer (maybe even an internal) for my 36 gallon but i don't know any good ones under 100$ since I'm on a budget?
also i don't have a sump but i plan on making one in the future
i was thinking about this one but i don't even know the brand
http://ift.tt/1rEMDBv
also i don't have a sump but i plan on making one in the future
i was thinking about this one but i don't even know the brand
http://ift.tt/1rEMDBv
Newbie 40G
Im new to the hobby i been researching for over a year. So far im thinking about drilling with a beananimal style with internal overflow. Sump and skimmer with the return through a canister filter.
Supplies so far:
Tank
Live sand- doing a marble with hawaiian black and oolite
2x 425 k. Pumps
30w heater
Notes
Im currently in japan so language and conversation is a factor. Most american brands i seen area tetra, ehiem, older reef octopus models.
Still researching lighting and will pick up live rock when ready.
Im think of having blk clownfish. Fire damsel. Snails stars n shrimp. Coral im undecided yet.
Thanks for the advice. Please advise or hints n helpers
Supplies so far:
Tank
Live sand- doing a marble with hawaiian black and oolite
2x 425 k. Pumps
30w heater
Notes
Im currently in japan so language and conversation is a factor. Most american brands i seen area tetra, ehiem, older reef octopus models.
Still researching lighting and will pick up live rock when ready.
Im think of having blk clownfish. Fire damsel. Snails stars n shrimp. Coral im undecided yet.
Thanks for the advice. Please advise or hints n helpers
Tunze 9002 or 9004 skimmer?
Ok, So I am going to be buying a skimmer, I'm down to 2 options, not sure what the difference is really, both same brand, which would be the better choice?
http://ift.tt/1klN2Ky
http://ift.tt/1klN2KA
I am running a aqua one 620t aquarium with in built filter, 300watt heater, and a 1600l/h wave maker which I don't think is enough, Will be buying another wave maker soon. I have about 14kg of live rock and it's a 130lt tank
Can I run either one of these without using my in built aquaone inbuilt filter?
If I put the skimmer in It's wither got to be at the front of my tank or it has to be in place of the filter... I was told with enough live rock and flow i shouldn't need a filter system in place if i am just running the skimmer is that correct? Sorry for the newbie questions, I am doing this slowly as money is the biggest thing holding me back, so doing on thing at a time...
I have a couple of hammers, a frammer, a leather, a coco worm, a elegance, 2 morphs, and a torch, a frogspawn, and i have a clown fish a yellow tail damsel, a talbot damsel and a blue chromis and a lawnmower blenny...
http://ift.tt/1klN2Ky
http://ift.tt/1klN2KA
I am running a aqua one 620t aquarium with in built filter, 300watt heater, and a 1600l/h wave maker which I don't think is enough, Will be buying another wave maker soon. I have about 14kg of live rock and it's a 130lt tank
Can I run either one of these without using my in built aquaone inbuilt filter?
If I put the skimmer in It's wither got to be at the front of my tank or it has to be in place of the filter... I was told with enough live rock and flow i shouldn't need a filter system in place if i am just running the skimmer is that correct? Sorry for the newbie questions, I am doing this slowly as money is the biggest thing holding me back, so doing on thing at a time...
I have a couple of hammers, a frammer, a leather, a coco worm, a elegance, 2 morphs, and a torch, a frogspawn, and i have a clown fish a yellow tail damsel, a talbot damsel and a blue chromis and a lawnmower blenny...
New tank to go into my new house.
The looking is finally over! My lovely wife and I have found a new house after looking for 5 months.:banana: It was both of our ideas to do a in wall, reef ready 125G tank. She doesn't want to see filtration, buckets, equipment, and all of the things that I have laying around the fish tank. So I get to build a room behind the tank with a SINK(sorry it's the little things you appreciate), and a large filtration system.
I am going to upgrade from the 90G and move all if my stuff over to the new system. I want to keep the cost low and add things as I go. The immediate purchases will be the 125RR with built in overflows, spectra pure RO/DI filter, WP40s, settling tank(20G), 40B for refugium only, and a larger return pump.
The cool part about this tank will be the filtration. The drains from the overflows will go to the settling tank. Then sump. Then fuge. The first tank will be raised about 12" off of the ground. The Sump will be about 4" off of the floor. The refugium will rest on the floor of the fish room. I want to eventually want to attach a frag tank to the system. But I may leave it out of the closed loop system for more control.
This is only the beginning. I have been so busy with work, and everything else that I have not been available to draw anything up. I will try to have something within the next couple of days once I can walk through the house again and get some measurements! Very excited!
I am going to upgrade from the 90G and move all if my stuff over to the new system. I want to keep the cost low and add things as I go. The immediate purchases will be the 125RR with built in overflows, spectra pure RO/DI filter, WP40s, settling tank(20G), 40B for refugium only, and a larger return pump.
The cool part about this tank will be the filtration. The drains from the overflows will go to the settling tank. Then sump. Then fuge. The first tank will be raised about 12" off of the ground. The Sump will be about 4" off of the floor. The refugium will rest on the floor of the fish room. I want to eventually want to attach a frag tank to the system. But I may leave it out of the closed loop system for more control.
This is only the beginning. I have been so busy with work, and everything else that I have not been available to draw anything up. I will try to have something within the next couple of days once I can walk through the house again and get some measurements! Very excited!
anthias help
Hello
I purchased a square spot anthias in march and he (sold to me as a male and had male colors)was always an over zealous eater and swimmer now he only eats a little and hides a lot he seems to have a dark spot on his head and his colors have faded. Any ideas? Attached are two pics one months ago and one today. Thanks
I purchased a square spot anthias in march and he (sold to me as a male and had male colors)was always an over zealous eater and swimmer now he only eats a little and hides a lot he seems to have a dark spot on his head and his colors have faded. Any ideas? Attached are two pics one months ago and one today. Thanks
DIY shallow reef using 3/16" glass?
Hello everyone, it's been a while since I have been on here so apologies. Trying to raise newborns during tough economic times left me with no money or time. My 29 biocube looks like Crap. Anyways i have this idea to build a shallow reef tank. They have been capturing my interest lately. So at work I came across two fish tanks was able to take. They were going to throw them out. One was a 29 gallon standard and the other a thirty gallon long. My idea is to take the long pieces of glass from both tanks to make a shallow reef at 36" x 30" x 12". My question is the glass strong enough? It is only 3/16" thick, but it seemed to be holding their original form fine. And at only 12" high it won't be putting that much stress on the glass. Of course for extra security was going to euro brace it also. If I go through with this I am also going to drill for overflow plumbing. So what does everyone think? Yes.......or no?
Before it gets out of control...
Hi,
It's been awhile but my tanks still going strong.
I have apastia on my clean water flow knob thing going into the tank. I noticed one on there before and I wiped it off. Now there's five. So right now I'm soaking the part in vinegar and did a water change. Will that kill it? Do I have to inject it? I don't have a needle. Can I just put the piece back in the tank or do I have to rinse it really good? Vinegar is ok for the tank right? It's distilled white vinegar. Thanks
It's been awhile but my tanks still going strong.
I have apastia on my clean water flow knob thing going into the tank. I noticed one on there before and I wiped it off. Now there's five. So right now I'm soaking the part in vinegar and did a water change. Will that kill it? Do I have to inject it? I don't have a needle. Can I just put the piece back in the tank or do I have to rinse it really good? Vinegar is ok for the tank right? It's distilled white vinegar. Thanks
So do you think these are big acans?
So these guys have been in my JBJ 12g nano at work for a few months now and I'm just impressed at how big the heads on my acans are getting. I did not think they would get this big, hell they keep getting bigger.
They started out smaller then the small colony next to them. I think they look happy what do you think? And has anyone seen bigger?
They started out smaller then the small colony next to them. I think they look happy what do you think? And has anyone seen bigger?
FS: macro algae Gracilaria Parvisipora
FS: macro algae Gracilaria Parvisipora
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shipped $20 pint sized bag...outgrows chaeto and caulerpa
Gracilaria can be equal or more effective than Chaetomorpha for nutrient export and has the added benefit of being more palatable to herbivorous fishes if (re-)cycling of the nutrients is preferred instead. As a refugiums species, it has all of the same befits as Chaetomorpha (namely, multicellular and stable when pruned, fast-growing and non-toxic).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
shipped $20 pint sized bag...outgrows chaeto and caulerpa
Gracilaria can be equal or more effective than Chaetomorpha for nutrient export and has the added benefit of being more palatable to herbivorous fishes if (re-)cycling of the nutrients is preferred instead. As a refugiums species, it has all of the same befits as Chaetomorpha (namely, multicellular and stable when pruned, fast-growing and non-toxic).
Video Reviews: Pinpoint pH Monitor
Product Test Team Video Reviews:
American Marine Pinpoint pH Monitor
CLICK THE AMERICAN MARINE PH MONITOR TO LEARN MORE
American Marine Pinpoint pH Monitor
CLICK THE AMERICAN MARINE PH MONITOR TO LEARN MORE
setting up a sump using a HOB overflow
hi i need to find out rates for return pump and HOB over flow my tank is 25 gallon / 125 l any help and advice thanks :help:
new to sps
I've been keeping fish and corals for a while now and have always had everything except for small polyp stony corals since i had never had them before i needed some info before i got one right now i have a 55 gallon aquarium with HOB filter, canister filter, protein skimmer and a uv light. for lighting i have dual T5HO actinic and an ultra sun light. the tank has plenty of live rock, a colony of xenia, candy cane coral acan, a frogspawn frag and 9 Kenya tree corals. I was just wondering what to feed and what to get
Protein skimmer micro bubble issue
hi i recently installed a aqua one g220 skimmer and i have some micro bubbles in my tank any advice on ho to solve the problem thanks :)
G1X Skimmer Issue?
I cleaned my G1X skimmer pump over the weekend and now it is foaming a lot and pushing aquarium water up in the collection cup. I need to empty the cup every day now.
Could it just be the skimmer working better now or an issue with the pump?
Thanks!
Could it just be the skimmer working better now or an issue with the pump?
Thanks!
what to feed baby clownfish
hey im new to thie form and im not sure if i posted it on the correct place but im looking into breeding clownfish its not for the money its just something to do but i hope it covers its own costs later on but ive read up up on it just for the food i need help with as i looked up and people sayed
rotifers 1-5 days old
rotifers / liveshrimp (golden pearls( 5-14 days)
golden pearls / cyclop-eeze (14-28 days)
but cant finds golden pearls or cyclop eeze online any surgestions ?
rotifers 1-5 days old
rotifers / liveshrimp (golden pearls( 5-14 days)
golden pearls / cyclop-eeze (14-28 days)
but cant finds golden pearls or cyclop eeze online any surgestions ?
Refugium Advice
Hello All,
I need some advice on my return water from my external refugium. I currently have a 75G DT with Eschopps RS-100 Berlin style sump. I plan to "T" off from my DT return pump 3/4" vinyl tubing with ball valve to a 20G high external refugium that will sit right next to the Eschopps sump. I have (2) scenarios and need help in deciding which is best for the refugium:
1. Drill and install 1" bulkhead in the 20G refugium to gravity feed back to the Eschopps sump. The problem I see here is that the same water that's traveled through the refugium could go right back to the refugium via the "T" in the return pump feed.
2. Add a separate return pump chamber in the refugium that feeds direct to the DT. If this is recommendation, what size return pump do you recommend for the refugium?
My main return pump located in the last chamber of the Eschopps sump is a Sicce Syncra 4.0 (951 GPH). I'm not sure how to calculate the flow into the refugium from the "T" in the return, however this will be adjustable via the inline ball valve.
I plan to keep a DSB in the refugium along with chaeto and live rock rubble - mainly for nitrate/phosphate reduction and pod growth. I'm unsure of the 75G DT flow to the Eschopps sump, but it's a single corner overlow with 1-1/4" drain to the Eschopps sump.
Your advice is appreciated!
I need some advice on my return water from my external refugium. I currently have a 75G DT with Eschopps RS-100 Berlin style sump. I plan to "T" off from my DT return pump 3/4" vinyl tubing with ball valve to a 20G high external refugium that will sit right next to the Eschopps sump. I have (2) scenarios and need help in deciding which is best for the refugium:
1. Drill and install 1" bulkhead in the 20G refugium to gravity feed back to the Eschopps sump. The problem I see here is that the same water that's traveled through the refugium could go right back to the refugium via the "T" in the return pump feed.
2. Add a separate return pump chamber in the refugium that feeds direct to the DT. If this is recommendation, what size return pump do you recommend for the refugium?
My main return pump located in the last chamber of the Eschopps sump is a Sicce Syncra 4.0 (951 GPH). I'm not sure how to calculate the flow into the refugium from the "T" in the return, however this will be adjustable via the inline ball valve.
I plan to keep a DSB in the refugium along with chaeto and live rock rubble - mainly for nitrate/phosphate reduction and pod growth. I'm unsure of the 75G DT flow to the Eschopps sump, but it's a single corner overlow with 1-1/4" drain to the Eschopps sump.
Your advice is appreciated!
Water volume
How accurate does this need to be? My tank volume is 150gallons. My sump is about another 30, but with the sand,rocks,livestock,etc... I am probably closer to the 150gallon (or less) of actual water. When adding supplements it seems everything is based per gallon of water. How important is it to be exact on how much water is present, and how do you calculate. how many gallons are actually in your setup?
High Nitrates
Hey all! My reef tank has been suffering from high nitrates lately and I am looking for some input as how to help this problem. Here is my tank specs to start:
45 Gal Reef tank:
-40 Pounds live rock
-2 500GPH Powerheads
-3 Inch sand bed
Tank is a 2 year old skimmerless set up. Currently running a aquaclear 110 (with skimmer attachment) with just the basic inserts of carbon, ammonia remover and filter floss right now. I have experimented with different things but this basic version still works the best.
Stock (ill keep it brief)
- 4 snails (2 for rocks, 2 for sand)
- Sand sifting goby
- 3 chromis
- 2 Clown fish
- 1 Dragonette
- 3 Shrimp (Blood, Peppermint and Pistol)
Along with several soft corals
Water specs:
Nitrate: 50
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: .25
Calcium: 425
Alkalinity: 8
Salinity: 1.023
pH: 8.2
Phosphate: 0
So my tank has been close to perfect for 2 years now. Now I seem to be suffering with nitrate problems. I just did a 30% water change last night, these were my water parameters as of this morning. My nitrates have been high for 2 straight months now. I have been doing at least 30% water changes every week since then. The nitrates drop slightly but not much.
1 year ago I ditched my skimmer and haven't looked back, tank has done MUCH better without it. No need to buy expensive additives that a skimmer takes out of your tank to keep everything happy. So you wont convince me to get a skimmer, I am a converted skimmerless reefer :thumbup:
I think I may know the culprit but I haven't been able to find any useable info online. Around 2 months ago my high fin goby disappeared. He lived inside the tiny holes in the biggest live rock piece I have. I think he died in there and maybe that is causing all these nitrates. It would be impossible to find him or get him out so what do I do?
Also I was thinking about starting a refugium to lower the nitrates and also start producing more live food for my dragonette. Any advice there? Maybe covert a old aquaclear 110 into one?
I appreciate all the advice, thanks all!
45 Gal Reef tank:
-40 Pounds live rock
-2 500GPH Powerheads
-3 Inch sand bed
Tank is a 2 year old skimmerless set up. Currently running a aquaclear 110 (with skimmer attachment) with just the basic inserts of carbon, ammonia remover and filter floss right now. I have experimented with different things but this basic version still works the best.
Stock (ill keep it brief)
- 4 snails (2 for rocks, 2 for sand)
- Sand sifting goby
- 3 chromis
- 2 Clown fish
- 1 Dragonette
- 3 Shrimp (Blood, Peppermint and Pistol)
Along with several soft corals
Water specs:
Nitrate: 50
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: .25
Calcium: 425
Alkalinity: 8
Salinity: 1.023
pH: 8.2
Phosphate: 0
So my tank has been close to perfect for 2 years now. Now I seem to be suffering with nitrate problems. I just did a 30% water change last night, these were my water parameters as of this morning. My nitrates have been high for 2 straight months now. I have been doing at least 30% water changes every week since then. The nitrates drop slightly but not much.
1 year ago I ditched my skimmer and haven't looked back, tank has done MUCH better without it. No need to buy expensive additives that a skimmer takes out of your tank to keep everything happy. So you wont convince me to get a skimmer, I am a converted skimmerless reefer :thumbup:
I think I may know the culprit but I haven't been able to find any useable info online. Around 2 months ago my high fin goby disappeared. He lived inside the tiny holes in the biggest live rock piece I have. I think he died in there and maybe that is causing all these nitrates. It would be impossible to find him or get him out so what do I do?
Also I was thinking about starting a refugium to lower the nitrates and also start producing more live food for my dragonette. Any advice there? Maybe covert a old aquaclear 110 into one?
I appreciate all the advice, thanks all!
SRO-XP2000SSS Problems
I'm assuming this is user error, but I'm looking for any advice.
I have the SRO-XP2000SSS. I bought it about 18 months ago and originally ran it in my heavily stocked 75 gallon reef. It worked out pretty well for me although it always seemed touchy.
I have recently broken that tank down in a move and upgraded to a 112 gallon Reef Savvy with a new sump. In this scenario I can't seem to get any consistent skimmate collection what-so-ever.
I am running an MRC Reef Sump with the skimmer in the first chamber (constant level). I bought a Reef Octopus Skimmer Stand to raise the skimmer up so that it would be very close to the stated optimal water depth. The skimmer is in approximately 5.75" of water in this configuration.
I have also added the Reef Octopus Automatic Neck Cleaner and 6" Waste Collector. At this point, I'm into this skimmer for over $1,000 so I really want it to work.
I did disassemble and clean everything thoroughly when I moved the skimmer to the new tank.
It seems like I am CONSTANTLY chasing the right setting for the skimmer. I may spend an entire day slowly closing the valve so it will produce a tiny bit of skimmate. Then after a few days it will flood the waste collector in the matter of a few minutes and turn off. I'll open the valve and bit and the cycle continues.
Any ideas what might be happening here?
I have the SRO-XP2000SSS. I bought it about 18 months ago and originally ran it in my heavily stocked 75 gallon reef. It worked out pretty well for me although it always seemed touchy.
I have recently broken that tank down in a move and upgraded to a 112 gallon Reef Savvy with a new sump. In this scenario I can't seem to get any consistent skimmate collection what-so-ever.
I am running an MRC Reef Sump with the skimmer in the first chamber (constant level). I bought a Reef Octopus Skimmer Stand to raise the skimmer up so that it would be very close to the stated optimal water depth. The skimmer is in approximately 5.75" of water in this configuration.
I have also added the Reef Octopus Automatic Neck Cleaner and 6" Waste Collector. At this point, I'm into this skimmer for over $1,000 so I really want it to work.
I did disassemble and clean everything thoroughly when I moved the skimmer to the new tank.
It seems like I am CONSTANTLY chasing the right setting for the skimmer. I may spend an entire day slowly closing the valve so it will produce a tiny bit of skimmate. Then after a few days it will flood the waste collector in the matter of a few minutes and turn off. I'll open the valve and bit and the cycle continues.
Any ideas what might be happening here?
Tuesday, up 'n atem!
Good mawnin', TRT!
Coffee is ready. Egg biscuits with all the fixings. Nanners, blueberries, peaches, and tropical fruits. Yummy. If you want to be adventuresome, have some of Carl's eggplant parmesan cold from the fridge. :)
Doug - Ewwww on the power being out. Been there, done that at work and it is NO FUN!
It's a nice 64º outside right now. Going to mid 80s.
Lots of love and hugs and peace to everyone.
Coffee is ready. Egg biscuits with all the fixings. Nanners, blueberries, peaches, and tropical fruits. Yummy. If you want to be adventuresome, have some of Carl's eggplant parmesan cold from the fridge. :)
Doug - Ewwww on the power being out. Been there, done that at work and it is NO FUN!
It's a nice 64º outside right now. Going to mid 80s.
Lots of love and hugs and peace to everyone.
id plz, magnified thing on glass
haven't seen this guy before, anyone know what it is? magnified with a lense on an iphone.
looks like a snowflake from the naked eye. ive heard ich can look like this? there are no fish in the tank, its a 10g bb with a CBS and 3 pieces of LR from a tank that had ich.
looks like a snowflake from the naked eye. ive heard ich can look like this? there are no fish in the tank, its a 10g bb with a CBS and 3 pieces of LR from a tank that had ich.
lundi 28 juillet 2014
inverters in chennai
where i can use inverter.what is inverter.which is best inverter in chennai.
thanks
thanks
Zoa-eating Pods.. HELP
So as the title suggests, I appear to be having some issues with my current amphipod population in my tank (30 gallon). Now I've done quite a bit of research about zoa-eating amphipods, and though it appears especially rare, I was able to find a few instances where others have had similar experiences (including on this site).
Anyway, it goes back a few weeksa go when I bought a nice set of rasta zoas from my LFS. Within only a few days, 10 out of the 15 polyps seemed to have literally disintegrated, which I know can unexplainably happen with some zoas. But during those few days, I noticed the polyps being almost completely covered by amphipods when the lights were out. Initially I thought the pods might just be cleaning up the rock/plug the zoas were on, or cleaning up any possible dead zoa tissue that may have existed, but I decided to test that by raising the colony of zoas off the floor of the tank and onto a large narrow shot glass, which prevented the pods from coming into contact with the zoas. On the shot glass, the 5 polyps stayed alive and remained pod-free, but would not open up. So I decided maybe it wasn't the pods after all and moved them back down to the floor of the tank. The next day, the remaining 5 polyps were unexplainably gone, with pods again being observed all over the colony when the lights were out.
I then decided to go to my LFS and buy two cheaper zoa frags to truly figure out if it was just the rastas being weird or if I really had a zoa-eating pod problem on my hands. I placed one frag on the left side of the tank and one frag on the right side of the tank. Overnight, the zoa frag that had only 2 polyps was completely gone, and the other colony that had ~20 polyps was easily halfed to 10 polyps, with again the pods being seen all of the colony/plug when the lights were out. I now have the remaining 10 polyps of that frag raised on the shot glass and though they have yet to open up after ~3 days now, I haven't lost any additional polyps. The culprit has to be the pods right???
What is most weird is that before I bought the rastas, I've had three nice sized colonies of zoas with no problems at all. It's not until now that I'm actually seeing one of the colonies "disappearing" now, but the other two seem to be unaffected to this point. Is it just a spontaneous zoa-eating population of pods that has only recently began to propagate in my tank or am I missing something?
But to make a long story short, I'm just looking for some input as to what you guys think. Can it really be the pods that are eating my zoas? All of my other corals are unaffected to this point. What can I do to solve this problem? I really don't want to lose my three large colonies of zoas and would like to be able to keep future colonies of zoas without worry.
I was thinking about getting a sixline wrasse to hopefully clear out my pod population. Would this be a suitable option for a 30 gallon tank? My tank is only stocked with two oscellaris clowns right now, and my husbandry/water change regimen is very pristine. Below are my tank specs if you wish to refer to, and let me know if you'd like any additional info.
Thanks for all the help in advance!
Tank Specs:
30 gallon, barebottom, Mp10 powerhead, Octopus BH1000 HOB skimmer, empty HOB filter for surface agitation (replaced with floss during WCs), all parameters within range
Anyway, it goes back a few weeksa go when I bought a nice set of rasta zoas from my LFS. Within only a few days, 10 out of the 15 polyps seemed to have literally disintegrated, which I know can unexplainably happen with some zoas. But during those few days, I noticed the polyps being almost completely covered by amphipods when the lights were out. Initially I thought the pods might just be cleaning up the rock/plug the zoas were on, or cleaning up any possible dead zoa tissue that may have existed, but I decided to test that by raising the colony of zoas off the floor of the tank and onto a large narrow shot glass, which prevented the pods from coming into contact with the zoas. On the shot glass, the 5 polyps stayed alive and remained pod-free, but would not open up. So I decided maybe it wasn't the pods after all and moved them back down to the floor of the tank. The next day, the remaining 5 polyps were unexplainably gone, with pods again being observed all over the colony when the lights were out.
I then decided to go to my LFS and buy two cheaper zoa frags to truly figure out if it was just the rastas being weird or if I really had a zoa-eating pod problem on my hands. I placed one frag on the left side of the tank and one frag on the right side of the tank. Overnight, the zoa frag that had only 2 polyps was completely gone, and the other colony that had ~20 polyps was easily halfed to 10 polyps, with again the pods being seen all of the colony/plug when the lights were out. I now have the remaining 10 polyps of that frag raised on the shot glass and though they have yet to open up after ~3 days now, I haven't lost any additional polyps. The culprit has to be the pods right???
What is most weird is that before I bought the rastas, I've had three nice sized colonies of zoas with no problems at all. It's not until now that I'm actually seeing one of the colonies "disappearing" now, but the other two seem to be unaffected to this point. Is it just a spontaneous zoa-eating population of pods that has only recently began to propagate in my tank or am I missing something?
But to make a long story short, I'm just looking for some input as to what you guys think. Can it really be the pods that are eating my zoas? All of my other corals are unaffected to this point. What can I do to solve this problem? I really don't want to lose my three large colonies of zoas and would like to be able to keep future colonies of zoas without worry.
I was thinking about getting a sixline wrasse to hopefully clear out my pod population. Would this be a suitable option for a 30 gallon tank? My tank is only stocked with two oscellaris clowns right now, and my husbandry/water change regimen is very pristine. Below are my tank specs if you wish to refer to, and let me know if you'd like any additional info.
Thanks for all the help in advance!
Tank Specs:
30 gallon, barebottom, Mp10 powerhead, Octopus BH1000 HOB skimmer, empty HOB filter for surface agitation (replaced with floss during WCs), all parameters within range
Over Skimming and ASM G-2 Pump
hi, i have a 55 Gal Tank with a 30 Gal sump (85 Gal Total), and i just bought an ASM G-2 Skimmer( 200 Gal) without the pump and i have some concerns that i hope you could help me with
1. is the skimmer too big for my setup?
2. Do i have to buy the OEM sedra 3500 pump? or there are other options
i´d appreciate your tips
1. is the skimmer too big for my setup?
2. Do i have to buy the OEM sedra 3500 pump? or there are other options
i´d appreciate your tips
More wierd stuff in my tank...
Ok, my new 7 gallon cube has all kinds of weird stuff growing in it. The sand and water came from my main tank and I added one piece of cured live rock and two dry rocks. The live rock must've just been loaded with crap because I don't have any of these things in my main tank.
I asked before on here about the weird black worms - they're still going strong. Now I've found a hydroid, but I can't find much useful info on them other than they eat plankton and fry. So is it okay to leave it in since I have no fry? Also some weird curly-cue growth on the side of the frogspawn and some strange roots growing on the glass.
I asked before on here about the weird black worms - they're still going strong. Now I've found a hydroid, but I can't find much useful info on them other than they eat plankton and fry. So is it okay to leave it in since I have no fry? Also some weird curly-cue growth on the side of the frogspawn and some strange roots growing on the glass.
Mantis Shrimp help?
Okay, so, LFS has two Mantis Shrimp, and I think one is a zebra mantis and the other is a peacock mantis. :help:
- How much space do they need? (I know that you can only keep one per tank)
- Can you put snails, or other fast fishes (like damsels or chromis) with it?
- What's the ideal temperature range?
- How much space do they need? (I know that you can only keep one per tank)
- Can you put snails, or other fast fishes (like damsels or chromis) with it?
- What's the ideal temperature range?
anemone status??
Have had three anemones for about a week and still looks deflated and not really happy... what to do?
I realized I didn't screen the light for the first few days so maybe its just still adjusting?? Grr I can't figure out how to up load pics from my phone....
I realized I didn't screen the light for the first few days so maybe its just still adjusting?? Grr I can't figure out how to up load pics from my phone....
condy nem hosting clownfish
Hi all,
Just looking for a bit of info. My condalyctus anenome is now hosting my 2 clownfish. I was told this is rather rare as they are tank bred clowns.
The female is lying in the centre of the anemone most of the time. Is this normal? Is seems well but rather strange.
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
Just looking for a bit of info. My condalyctus anenome is now hosting my 2 clownfish. I was told this is rather rare as they are tank bred clowns.
The female is lying in the centre of the anemone most of the time. Is this normal? Is seems well but rather strange.
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
Thrown back into reefkeeping
I had reef aquariums about 10 years ago, Then life happened. I got married, bought a house, and had kids. The tanks had to go as I had to do the responsible thing. Fast forward 10 years to about 2 weeks ago. I mentioned to my wife that I would like to get another tank soon. She agreed but we decided to keep it small and go slow to get the hang of it again.
Then one of her friends posted on facebook that they were moving and they couldn't take their tank with them. Long story short, I just acquired a fully stocked 150gal tank with everything needed to run it. There were 12 fish but 2 died in the move from their house to mine. and there are about 20 various corals.
I am feeling pretty overwhelmed at trying to re-learn everything I forgot about the hobby. I have spent most of my free time at work today combing the pages of this forum trying to get up to speed.
Then one of her friends posted on facebook that they were moving and they couldn't take their tank with them. Long story short, I just acquired a fully stocked 150gal tank with everything needed to run it. There were 12 fish but 2 died in the move from their house to mine. and there are about 20 various corals.
I am feeling pretty overwhelmed at trying to re-learn everything I forgot about the hobby. I have spent most of my free time at work today combing the pages of this forum trying to get up to speed.
Angels?
I had fallen in love with angels about a year ago with my Singapore angelfish after a couple of months he died from being sucked into my canister filter. A couple of days ago I got a false lemon-peel angelfish an dwarfed to know how many other dwarf angels like bicolor's coral beauties or lemon-peels
Right now I have 1 oscellaris clown 1 yellow coris wrasse 1 shrimp goby 1 pistol shrimp and a false lemon-peel angelfish these are in a 55 gallon tank with plenty of live rock a colony of Xenia acan candy cane coral mushrooms rock flower anemone and a Kenya tree coral
The tank has a protein skimmer, large canister filter, and a HOB filter
I know I won't be able to get many maybe 1 or 2 but all feedback is appreciated
Right now I have 1 oscellaris clown 1 yellow coris wrasse 1 shrimp goby 1 pistol shrimp and a false lemon-peel angelfish these are in a 55 gallon tank with plenty of live rock a colony of Xenia acan candy cane coral mushrooms rock flower anemone and a Kenya tree coral
The tank has a protein skimmer, large canister filter, and a HOB filter
I know I won't be able to get many maybe 1 or 2 but all feedback is appreciated
meleranus wrasse vs brown jelly
I've been having a issue with brown jelly lately. I have noticed my meleranus wrasse will start picking the euphyllia apart when the euphyllia starts to jelly. It goes back to it over and over taking big bites. I hate brown jelly and my love for euphyllia is gone. My huge orange wall hammer just went to it along with a golden torch rainbow hammer and a few others in the last few months. The wrasse never touches any of my euphyllia till it jellies I wonder why. I figured maybe a pest but don't see any
What is this
[IMG]{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252 {\fonttbl\f0\fnil\fcharset0 Verdana;} {\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;\red0\green0\b lue0;\red255\green255\blue255;} \deftab720 \pard\pardeftab720\partightenfactor0 \f0\fs26 \cf2 \cb3 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0 \outl0\strokewidth0 \strokec2 \uc0\u8234 http://ift.tt/1rv4qek }[/IMG]
Can anyone ID this mushroom for me
Can anyone ID this mushroom for me
I watch dr. shows too
with all the fish we adore, things we watch and symptoms we attempt to diagnose, does this sound familiar?
dizziness, fatigue, shortness of breath
should it?
lets think here..
dizziness - lethargy
shortness of breath - 'panting'
fatigue.. well fatigue..
those symptoms are symptoms of sodium nitrite poisoning in humans. but those are also common symptoms as well in fish. and in humans.
just some food for thought
dizziness, fatigue, shortness of breath
should it?
lets think here..
dizziness - lethargy
shortness of breath - 'panting'
fatigue.. well fatigue..
those symptoms are symptoms of sodium nitrite poisoning in humans. but those are also common symptoms as well in fish. and in humans.
just some food for thought
Royal Nature Salt
Just found this company....
http://ift.tt/1zl1ohi
Relatively new, as per their 'About us' link.
Made @ and from the Red Sea.
Available in pail or plastic.
Outlet in PA.
I sent a price request.
We'll see what happens.
http://ift.tt/1zl1ohi
Relatively new, as per their 'About us' link.
Made @ and from the Red Sea.
Available in pail or plastic.
Outlet in PA.
I sent a price request.
We'll see what happens.
dimanche 27 juillet 2014
220 circulation help
Hi all, I've just started my new 220g up recently, and am in need of a couple power heads for circulation. Have a 45g now that once I'm 'cycled' I'll be moving my treasures over to the new tank. I am keeping a 'softies-only tank', mostly mushrooms and polyps, but the circ system on the 45 would be wowfully under powered.It's a 7' long tank by 2'.....am concidering these, I like the price, and they sound great......could be a sales pitch so I better check. http://ift.tt/1tfgK6p
Has any one used these, recomend them, or have something comperable to suggest? Apreciate all help, thanks,
Dave
Has any one used these, recomend them, or have something comperable to suggest? Apreciate all help, thanks,
Dave
Rbta help
My red and green bubble tip anemone has been looking bad for a few weeks now. I've had it for about 2 months. It looked good for the first few weeks. It never moved from the spot it was placed in. My tank params are stable and has been set up for about 14 months. Any help would be appreciated.
I O salt, how long can it stay in mix?
I've recently switched to IO from TMPro. Big difference in cost.
My TMPro salt I didn't mind to keep in mix even up to a month
using what I did as I went, and occasionally adding water then salt back in
before I reached the bottom of the Brute.
Sometimes I would mix salt and leave it in the Brute 10 days maybe 2 weeks
before I got around to using it for the initial WC it was intended for
but maybe siphoning a bit now and then till I did the main WC.
I liked the cleanliness of the ™ salts and honestly so far the IO
has been more clean than I expected it to be.
How long can it stay mixed up. I remember Helen naming a brand, Salinity I think by Aqua Vitro maybe???
and an email they sent her said to use it within a short time frame…
obviously I'm not the aquarist for that salt.
My TMPro salt I didn't mind to keep in mix even up to a month
using what I did as I went, and occasionally adding water then salt back in
before I reached the bottom of the Brute.
Sometimes I would mix salt and leave it in the Brute 10 days maybe 2 weeks
before I got around to using it for the initial WC it was intended for
but maybe siphoning a bit now and then till I did the main WC.
I liked the cleanliness of the ™ salts and honestly so far the IO
has been more clean than I expected it to be.
How long can it stay mixed up. I remember Helen naming a brand, Salinity I think by Aqua Vitro maybe???
and an email they sent her said to use it within a short time frame…
obviously I'm not the aquarist for that salt.
Pump question
I recently acquired a used sump. It came with a protein skimmer but not a return pump. Can I use the pump for the protein skimmer as the return pump. It's a rio 2100. The person I bought it from says no but I don't see why I couldn't. Any insight?
Deals deals, who's got the deal?
Is anyone aware of any power head deals going on right now? I'm in need of more circulation and if the price is right could really benefit from it. Plus I'm sure other people on here could use a deal right about now. Big or small power heads doesn't matter.. Thanks!
MACNA 2014 Full Conference Tickets for Sale
I'm unable to attend MACNA 2014 and have 2 Full Conference Passes for sale. $100 each or both for $190.
Full conference registration includes 3 days of exhibit floor access, speakers, workshops and prize drawings as well as the Friday Reception and Saturday Banquet.
Full conference registration includes 3 days of exhibit floor access, speakers, workshops and prize drawings as well as the Friday Reception and Saturday Banquet.
beginner SPS coral?
I've been wanting to get into SPS coral. so far i have a green birds nest thats doing very well so i was wondering what would be the next step. i heard that millipora can be easy but i just want others opinions before i buy anything
Eshopps psk skimmers any good?
Looking through skimmers, I came across the eshopps psk in sump, and snow cone skimmers. Just wondering if anybody has experience or knows some about these skimmers?
A Picture's Worth a Thousand Words ...
... as the old adage goes, and we agree! This is why all of our livestock for sale is WYSIWYG.
But when a picture doesn't do justice to the product, like for our LED Lights, we'll take the words from some our customers about their new ReefCorner LED lighting:
-J.P.-Ohio
- Matt-Oregon
- B.M.-Florida
But when a picture doesn't do justice to the product, like for our LED Lights, we'll take the words from some our customers about their new ReefCorner LED lighting:
Quote:
We love how everything has sprung to life compared to the lights we were using. This light will also serve us well when we upgrade to a larger tank. Thanks again. Very happy with our purchase and the service. Great product. |
-J.P.-Ohio
Quote:
We love our new CR180D lights, they work great! |
- Matt-Oregon
Quote:
Light works awesome. Thanks again. I’ll be making another purchase soon. |
- B.M.-Florida
kinda lost
So I have been having a bit of a cyano issue off and on for awhile now. Being that I started reefing using trt I do it the way that Geoffrey doc and the older trt members do it. Keep a ssb with weekly water changes good flow good skimmer. The way they do it makes sense in my head that's why I always followed it. As I'm sure many have noticed trt has slowed down a lot since I joined ( it's picking back up some) so I have joined other forums mostly just to read but sometimes post questions. So I have cyano and almost every person is trying to tell me not to siphon my bed any more and that's the issue that I'm siphoning out all the denitritfying bacteria. So I have these people telling me I have a phosphate issue possibly low flow issue and they are telling me to stop and leave my tank alone. Then have the nerve to tell me I'm getting defensive and not following there great advice. I don't consider myself a hard head but usually if you have high phosphate isn't the first thing you do is to start siphoning and changing water. I also don't test phosphate why bother if I can test 0 for phosphate and have algae why bother just seeing the issue should mean I have extra phosphate who cares what that number really is. I guess I'm ranting here but trt was always my home for reefing and a whole forum is saying you guys have led us all with bad info.
Toy's Tank Specs
My tank specs:
Nuvo Pico 4 Gallon - 150
Stock Lighting
Stock Pump
Tunze Auto Top Off - 104
Cobalt 25w Heater - 36
Corals:
Bi-Color Hammer - 7/1/2014 - 60
Green Frogspawn - 7/1/2014 - 30
Rasta Zoas - 7/19/2014 - 40
Nuvo Pico 4 Gallon - 150
Stock Lighting
Stock Pump
Tunze Auto Top Off - 104
Cobalt 25w Heater - 36
Corals:
Bi-Color Hammer - 7/1/2014 - 60
Green Frogspawn - 7/1/2014 - 30
Rasta Zoas - 7/19/2014 - 40
4 Gallon Nano Reef Lighting
Hi all,
I just recently setup a Nuvo Pico Tank for a nano reef. I am running the stock lighting but am not happy with the washed out colors of my corals. SO I'm looking for opinions to upgrade the lighting for better color from the corals.
Any opinons on upgraded lighting?
Also, it it unrealistic to think about lighting that can also support hard corals?
I just recently setup a Nuvo Pico Tank for a nano reef. I am running the stock lighting but am not happy with the washed out colors of my corals. SO I'm looking for opinions to upgrade the lighting for better color from the corals.
Any opinons on upgraded lighting?
Also, it it unrealistic to think about lighting that can also support hard corals?
Josh and Chelsea's 300 gallon SPS reef
I guess it is time to start a new thread because I am finally moving into the "action" side of things rather than just planning. We picked up a 300dd last week to replace our cramped 90.
Our current system:
The new display tank:
Display mods:
We are going to start off by cleaning the glass, removing the overflows and then removing the silicone seals around the inside corners of the tank. We're going to add an eight inch eurobrace all the way around the inside perimeter of the tank to help prevent the types of problems which other 300dd owners have been having. We will use 1/2" glass for the eurobracing and will fill the center of the tank with 1/2" acrylic, then lay a sheet of 1/2" starboard down across the whole bottom. For an overflow, we will build a glass coast-to-coast overflow to maximize the surface skimming. We plan on building a hybrid wood/steel stand in order to make it very strong and not have a center brace in the front, giving 6ft of unobstructed access under the display.
Equipment:
Sump - I'm going to move the glass sump from my current equipment cabinet to under the display. What used to be the frag tank will now be a cryptic zone for more live rock and sand. Under the original stand, we will probably have a much small frag tank with T5s.
Skimmer - I'll build a new protein skimmer from scratch which will sit just outside of the sump. I've already purchased a 14"x18" grey PVC body for it and will bond flanges to it to bolt to an acrylic riser and 8" neck. The cup doesn't need to be large as it will still drain into an external container. I plan to run this skimmer recirculating with a large bubble blaster pump. Building it myself, I can probably break even selling my old reef octopus. With the upgraded skimmer, I should be able to get by without and carbon dosing to boost output.
Phosphate reduction - I'm also going to build a new lanthanum chloride reactor in order to get away from GFO. Running large amounts of GFO is a total headache because of the way it clumps up and the dust that it creates. It is also very expensive compared to lanthanum chloride. By dosing the LaCl through a dosing pump into the reactor, I can control the phosphate reduction digitally, unlike GFO which is not remotely time released.
Dosing - For dosing all of my major and minor ions, I will continue using most of my equipment, running kalk, dosing pumps and a calcium reactor for the redundancy safety net; though, I may wind up building a bigger calcium reactor.
Lighting - Right now I have two hydra52s and three sols. I love the hydra52s but I don't feel like they have enough of a blue punch and it winds up making the tank look more purple than I would want. This could easily be remedied by swapping white LEDs for blues but I am not sure that I want to modify them. Three hydra52s are advertised to be able to cover the entirety of the 300dd tank but I am not too sure about all of that. I think that I would be more comfortable running the three hydra52s and supplementing them with six sols. The lighting rack will be very heavy and I plan to run it about 6" off of the water. I'm going to add ball bearing sliders to the back of the stand to fix the light supports to and then counter-weigh the whole system so that I can easily get more clearance to work on the tank.
Flow - Getting all of the flow that this tanks needs using vortechs would be quite the investment. Jebao just release the WR pumps and I extend to buy six of the WR20 pumps for flow. This should be enough to blow the tank apart!
Natural nutrient reduction - A lot of you guys know me well enough to know that I would incorporate algae into a bigger system for nutrient reduction. My weapon of choice as of late has been chaeto due to how easy it is to harvest. Under this tank, I will stick a 29 gallon chaeto tank with some powerful power heads to keep a nice large ball of chaeto spinning under powerful lights.
That's about all that I can think of off of the top of my head.:beer:
Our current system:
The new display tank:
Display mods:
We are going to start off by cleaning the glass, removing the overflows and then removing the silicone seals around the inside corners of the tank. We're going to add an eight inch eurobrace all the way around the inside perimeter of the tank to help prevent the types of problems which other 300dd owners have been having. We will use 1/2" glass for the eurobracing and will fill the center of the tank with 1/2" acrylic, then lay a sheet of 1/2" starboard down across the whole bottom. For an overflow, we will build a glass coast-to-coast overflow to maximize the surface skimming. We plan on building a hybrid wood/steel stand in order to make it very strong and not have a center brace in the front, giving 6ft of unobstructed access under the display.
Equipment:
Sump - I'm going to move the glass sump from my current equipment cabinet to under the display. What used to be the frag tank will now be a cryptic zone for more live rock and sand. Under the original stand, we will probably have a much small frag tank with T5s.
Skimmer - I'll build a new protein skimmer from scratch which will sit just outside of the sump. I've already purchased a 14"x18" grey PVC body for it and will bond flanges to it to bolt to an acrylic riser and 8" neck. The cup doesn't need to be large as it will still drain into an external container. I plan to run this skimmer recirculating with a large bubble blaster pump. Building it myself, I can probably break even selling my old reef octopus. With the upgraded skimmer, I should be able to get by without and carbon dosing to boost output.
Phosphate reduction - I'm also going to build a new lanthanum chloride reactor in order to get away from GFO. Running large amounts of GFO is a total headache because of the way it clumps up and the dust that it creates. It is also very expensive compared to lanthanum chloride. By dosing the LaCl through a dosing pump into the reactor, I can control the phosphate reduction digitally, unlike GFO which is not remotely time released.
Dosing - For dosing all of my major and minor ions, I will continue using most of my equipment, running kalk, dosing pumps and a calcium reactor for the redundancy safety net; though, I may wind up building a bigger calcium reactor.
Lighting - Right now I have two hydra52s and three sols. I love the hydra52s but I don't feel like they have enough of a blue punch and it winds up making the tank look more purple than I would want. This could easily be remedied by swapping white LEDs for blues but I am not sure that I want to modify them. Three hydra52s are advertised to be able to cover the entirety of the 300dd tank but I am not too sure about all of that. I think that I would be more comfortable running the three hydra52s and supplementing them with six sols. The lighting rack will be very heavy and I plan to run it about 6" off of the water. I'm going to add ball bearing sliders to the back of the stand to fix the light supports to and then counter-weigh the whole system so that I can easily get more clearance to work on the tank.
Flow - Getting all of the flow that this tanks needs using vortechs would be quite the investment. Jebao just release the WR pumps and I extend to buy six of the WR20 pumps for flow. This should be enough to blow the tank apart!
Natural nutrient reduction - A lot of you guys know me well enough to know that I would incorporate algae into a bigger system for nutrient reduction. My weapon of choice as of late has been chaeto due to how easy it is to harvest. Under this tank, I will stick a 29 gallon chaeto tank with some powerful power heads to keep a nice large ball of chaeto spinning under powerful lights.
That's about all that I can think of off of the top of my head.:beer:
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