I started with a minimalist approach. As my desire for more coral increased, I decided to add more live rook in order to accommodate more coral.
In an attempt to utilize as much real estate on the rock as possible, I began placing corals. Little did I realize how taxing that would be. I understood the rules of thumb from the onset, it just quickly became a puzzle of do's and dont's that had more dont's than do's.
For those who are still becoming familiar with the don'ts and do's, I'll elaborate a bit while also tanking this opportunity to rant (just a little). First off, here is a list of basic considerations...
1. Structuring the live rock
Piecing together the rocks in an efficient yet aesthetically desirable manner can be a real challenge. When I say efficient I mean in a manner that allows water movement and circulation to be maximized. For example away from the back wall of the aquarium and risen somewhat off the bottom in order to have flow both behind and under the structure. If at all possible, hollowed areas behind front facing rocks where corals can rest also helps to not restrict flow through the rocks and allows hiding places for fish. All the while you want to be providing as many resting places for corals as possible.
2. Lighting exposure (place high/medium/low)
This seems like a fairly simple matter until you factor in available surface area in relationship to other dont's which are amongst this list. Simply following the book doesn't always apply to corals with a mind of their own. I have what are rated as high light corals that refused to be satisfied with a high light placement. So of course observation of their individual temperament required moving them until they responded well. This of course leads to moving other neighboring corals that might be threatened by the new corals aggressive behavior. Then the next question is, where to place the neighboring coral. A simple switch of the two would be nice but highly unlikely.
3. Flow rate (place high/medium/low)
You know, near a powerhead at a distance from a powerhead. Naturally power heads are usually at the surface (high light corals) and not the bottom (low light corals). Factor in size and aggression relative to neighboring corals and you can easily see how this becomes a Houdini act.
4. Coral aggression
That's right, territorial disputes with long sweeper tentacles. The slightest toxin emitting from a nearby coral can cause a neighboring coral to retract with intimidation.
5. Polyps or tentacles resting against live rock
Several corals seem to do best when the flesh can extend without touching the rock it's resting on. A bit like placing a ball on the apex of a safety cone if you get what I mean. Super glue gels comes in real handy, but just how many of these apex points exist once you have puzzled together the rock you selected.
6. Aesthetics and composition
We want balance and symmetry to our eye catching creation. So factoring in all the above considerations without compromise in order to achieve a work of art might just leave you bald after pulling your hair out.
6. Anemone
Most people wont even go there. Me, I couldn't resist. I made a cove in the rock structure in the middle of the aquarium to house the anemone as a centerpiece. I have a deep sand bed so the long tentacled anemone (sand anemone) could bury its foot. Fortunately it did and I'm pleased. However, unexpectedly the female clown who took to it began bulldozing neighboring corals with the blunt of her nose and knocking them off of their carefully placed positions on the rock. So of course super glue gel had her quite puzzled until she learned to accept them as a non-threat to her anemone.
Believe it or not, I did it and I cant even begin to count the hours of observation each and every day of coral behavior. Not to mention the numerous failed attempts at relocating corals until the corals and myself were satisfied. All in all I'd say I have over thirty corals in a 90 gallon reef. Not one bit of real estate was left baron.
When I get my new video camera, I'll post a tube for this thread.
In an attempt to utilize as much real estate on the rock as possible, I began placing corals. Little did I realize how taxing that would be. I understood the rules of thumb from the onset, it just quickly became a puzzle of do's and dont's that had more dont's than do's.
For those who are still becoming familiar with the don'ts and do's, I'll elaborate a bit while also tanking this opportunity to rant (just a little). First off, here is a list of basic considerations...
1. Structuring the live rock
Piecing together the rocks in an efficient yet aesthetically desirable manner can be a real challenge. When I say efficient I mean in a manner that allows water movement and circulation to be maximized. For example away from the back wall of the aquarium and risen somewhat off the bottom in order to have flow both behind and under the structure. If at all possible, hollowed areas behind front facing rocks where corals can rest also helps to not restrict flow through the rocks and allows hiding places for fish. All the while you want to be providing as many resting places for corals as possible.
2. Lighting exposure (place high/medium/low)
This seems like a fairly simple matter until you factor in available surface area in relationship to other dont's which are amongst this list. Simply following the book doesn't always apply to corals with a mind of their own. I have what are rated as high light corals that refused to be satisfied with a high light placement. So of course observation of their individual temperament required moving them until they responded well. This of course leads to moving other neighboring corals that might be threatened by the new corals aggressive behavior. Then the next question is, where to place the neighboring coral. A simple switch of the two would be nice but highly unlikely.
3. Flow rate (place high/medium/low)
You know, near a powerhead at a distance from a powerhead. Naturally power heads are usually at the surface (high light corals) and not the bottom (low light corals). Factor in size and aggression relative to neighboring corals and you can easily see how this becomes a Houdini act.
4. Coral aggression
That's right, territorial disputes with long sweeper tentacles. The slightest toxin emitting from a nearby coral can cause a neighboring coral to retract with intimidation.
5. Polyps or tentacles resting against live rock
Several corals seem to do best when the flesh can extend without touching the rock it's resting on. A bit like placing a ball on the apex of a safety cone if you get what I mean. Super glue gels comes in real handy, but just how many of these apex points exist once you have puzzled together the rock you selected.
6. Aesthetics and composition
We want balance and symmetry to our eye catching creation. So factoring in all the above considerations without compromise in order to achieve a work of art might just leave you bald after pulling your hair out.
6. Anemone
Most people wont even go there. Me, I couldn't resist. I made a cove in the rock structure in the middle of the aquarium to house the anemone as a centerpiece. I have a deep sand bed so the long tentacled anemone (sand anemone) could bury its foot. Fortunately it did and I'm pleased. However, unexpectedly the female clown who took to it began bulldozing neighboring corals with the blunt of her nose and knocking them off of their carefully placed positions on the rock. So of course super glue gel had her quite puzzled until she learned to accept them as a non-threat to her anemone.
Believe it or not, I did it and I cant even begin to count the hours of observation each and every day of coral behavior. Not to mention the numerous failed attempts at relocating corals until the corals and myself were satisfied. All in all I'd say I have over thirty corals in a 90 gallon reef. Not one bit of real estate was left baron.
When I get my new video camera, I'll post a tube for this thread.
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