samedi 31 mai 2014

Advice for aquarium repairs?

It's 130 gallon, 1/2" thick glass, 4' x 2' x 29"? tall



Got beat up in a move, corner, side, and bottom damage.



Three pictures are different angles of one corner. Notice, how in a small portion of the break, basically all but like 1/24th of an inch, of the 1/2" thickness, chipped off where the front panel overlaps the side panel.



http://ift.tt/1hnWhII



http://ift.tt/1hnWknQ



http://ift.tt/1hnWknS





There's also a couple pictures of where something hit the side of the bottom panels, you can see the hit ripple so that if forms a bit of a sideways oval crack above the hit. On the top of the oval, the crack goes in and the top edge is sharp enough to cut.



http://ift.tt/1hnWknU



http://ift.tt/RROrKQ



I also did notice that the very bottom pane was basically in 2 or 3 pieces, under it all.







So, let me know if you think these repairs will do well...



I'm thinking of putting on a couple layers of Creeping Crack in the damaged corner, and the side, to help prevent any runs that might occur when being filled.



After a couple layers of that, with curing in between, I'll get little pieces of plate glass, around 6" x 3" x 1/2" thick, to actually patch over and reconstruct the corner, as well as the crack on the side, whilst using 3M Marine Silicone Sealant to make it permanent. So, that's glass patches, on top of 3M, on top of Creeping Crack.



Once the corner and side crack are patched, I'm thinking of completely removing the silicone seal on the inside, and then, spending a month, or something, laying down layer, after layer, of Creeping Crack, giving it time to cure between layers, ultimately, soaking the seams, especially the bottom, in Creeping Crack, for an extended period of time, THEN, re-silicone the seams with more 3M.



I'll then add a brace in the middle top, as the tank doesn't have a top middle brace, or actually, I should probably do that first, idk.




How many part dosing? Best value pump/controller

Need this for a new sps acropora setup. Anyone have any experience with the best combo (2part 4part 5part)for this and what kind of gear?




Acropora dosing pumps

Im trying to figure out what kind of pumps to buy and how many part dosing.

Im thinking 4 part (alk,cal,mag,trace)? Maybe another for food?




Zalick's 300dd build

Making a big jump from a 20L to 300dd with a 100g custom sump. It's going to be a peninsula with all but 18" of the nonsaphire backside viewable. It will be a barebottom mixed reef.



I've ordered the tank and stand from Marineland. Picking up in a week or so.



Here is my current equipment list, which I intend to order in the next few days. I'd love any comments.



Lighting: 4 - Kessil a360w

Controller: Neptune Apex Gold

Flow: 2-mp60 (wall side of penninsula) 2-mp40s on opposite side.

skimmer: sro5000 or diablo dc300 - thoughts? others?

ATO: Spectrapure UPLC-II

heaters: 3 - 300w jagers

return - mag 18 (will be about 1200gph with the head)

reactor - none

dosing - none



My intent is to make it as low maintenance as possible. I'm running PVC under the floor and up into the cabinet. One line will be saltwater with a ball valve. The other line will be plumbed to the overflow with a ball valve and then connected to wastewater line under house. The ato will be plumbed to the garage where the salt and fresh holding tanks will live.

These holding tanks will be about 4' higher than the sump, so gravity will work its magic.



Water change made easy. Open ball valve on overflow and empty 20g directly to sewer line. Close valve. Open salt valve and dump 20g saltwater to sump. Close valve.



The ato will be connected to a 20-30g reservoir, so if @#%$ happens it can fully dump to sump and not be too damaging.



I'm not bothering with reactors or dosing at the moment. It won't be too heavily stocked with sps for a bit and I have a habit of 10% weekly waterchanges and plan to keep that up but probably do 5% or so.



I've played with the a360w at a lfs, and its amazing. The intensity and spectrum control are incredible.



I know I could use 4-mp40s but I'd rather run an mp60 at 50% than a mp40 at 100%.



I'm also thinking of putting one of the mp40s on the bottom, yes bottom, of the tank right in the middle shooting up. Has anyone ever seen this before? Reasons why its a bad idea? It would give some really great vertical flow.



Bottom cleaning

Will this work? plumb a second valve on the overflow in sump area with a flexible hose connected. when cleaning, put the hose just under the top of the tank water and open the valve. The force of the water from the overflow should start a siphon with the hose. Can then vacuum up the bottom with a sock attached. when done, lift hose to stop siphon and close valve. Then remove and clean sock.



I would appreciate any comments on the equipment! Especially the skimmer.





Anyway, that's enough for now. I'll be updating as the toys arrive!




Filling sump for first time, few questions.

Ok so I had a 55, got rid of it unfortunately after like a month of it being set up because the stand I bought was just trash and I couldn't fit a sump or put one any where discreet enough for my wife's approval. So I bought a 45 from someone which came with a sump and a HOB overflow with the piping and all that good jazz. So I finally have the 45 up and mixing/airing out. Now my question is, having a HOB overflow with a u-tube siphon, how do I go about starting te sump? Do I fill the tank and the sump and turn on my pump and then siphon? I'm just really confused. Please elaborate as much as possible. I can be hard headed :( lol. It's a 15 gallon sump and my return pump is an aqueon submersible 3000. Also, is my return pump too strong? I don't see why it would be but I'm brand new to this. So you never know. Thanks in advance!




WTB: (2) Vortech MP40's

Hey everybody. Like the the subject says, i'm interested in buying a pair of MP40's (whether you have one or two). Missed out on a sick deal for a pair @ $500 bucks, missed the craigslist by a day. Seems like a once in a lifetime. In any event, I need to pick them up for my new build. Send me a note and some pics and let's close a deal. Thye don't necessarily need to be wireless, my interest is in having he power mostly. Thanks guys.




Water softener before RO/DI??

I have a 75gpd 4-stage RO/DI setup. It makes about 100 gallons of treated water per DI cartridge. the filters are about a year old but I have only made about 500 gallons of treated water in that time. I have ordered new filters and just got a TDS meter today.



My questions are:

With county water @ 210-220ppm TDS



(1) How long should a DI cartridge last?



(2) Is a water softener worth the $$ with TDS @ the tap near 220ppm?



(3) Is filter maintenance based strictly on elapsed time or is volume treated relevant?



Thanks in advance.




Please help me what the heck is this coral

What coral is this wife went out shopping came back with a piece of coral and a 29 gallon bio cube I'VE BEEN WAITING ONE FOR YEARS the pamphlet game acclimating instructions but doesn't say what kind it is I'm praying it's a great beginners coral. HELP ME



the coral is in a 55 gallon 3 month old tank water parameters are swell 2 O. Clown Fish 2 Blue Devil Damsels 5 hermits





Running Bak Pak Skimmer 2 Rio Power Heads Full Lunar LED LIGHTS




Spectra pure filters, need help!

Hello



so I have this RO/DI system

http://ift.tt/RR7wgk



I have had the system for less then a year and probably have done around 300-350 gallons with it over the time I have had it. I think I am in need for new filters but I am not sure as I do not have something to test the RO/DI water but I think I am going to order the filters anyways as I have some extra money now. Is there somewhere where I can buy all three filters as a kit? If so, I would greatly appreciate the help on where it is. I saw kits on spectrapure.com but I wanted to make sure I wasnt buying the wrong kit.





Thank you so much!




Yellow Tang Recovery Time for Lateral Line?

MY yellow had a bad diet---lateral line set in--changed the diet...but top fin is still spiky and middle tissue not grown back in between---bottom fin also very short....from mid march to suddenly mid april, i noticed a huge difference



changed diet---seaweed, kelp flakes, marine algae---the detoriation stopped but its no late may and i dont know how long it will take to get him back to show form---



anyone ever deal with a yellow tang like this and how long it took to get him back to form? im patient...




Mantis Shrimp problem

Hi guys!

I was just wondering how long mantis shrimp can survive for out of water?

Thanks! :)




Need help finding parts...

So I want to make a timer setup for my Spectrapure 90GPD RODI filter. Right now I know it takes 4-5 hours to make enough water for my maintenance. The problem is that with my work schedule I am not always home 5 hours after turning on the filter. My idea is to find an electric valve that I can put on the output line of the filter so that I can either set it to a timer or maybe even get a WeMo type outlet and have web access to turn it on and off. I would love to find a valve that opens when power is applied and closes when there is no power. I'm not too worried about valve failure incase it doesn't turn off, my Brute can hold way more water than I need and it takes about 8-10 hours to overflow. So I will be able to act as the failsafe. Does anyone know if this exists and where I can find one? Or a better way to accomplish what I am trying to do...without buying an Apex controller (that will come eventually but not right now).




Welcome mandarinfish27!

Happy to have you!




rbta

During my last club meeting I won a rbta. In the bag he looked small so I took it. I got home stuck him in my tank and he was pretty large a minimum of 6 inches probably more like 8 inches across when fully inflated. I'm hoping for my clowns to host it. So I decided to split the nem into 2. I took a razor poured some coral disinfectant on the razor. I then cut the nem in half through the mouth. While doing it I realized I made a bad choice by doing it on the rock lessened learned. I put them in a bucket with some disinfectant rinsed and put in my sump for the rest of the day. I put him back in the tank this morning. Both are inflated. So the part I'm kinda worried about since I didn't get a straight through cut with one shot I may have hacked up one side. I really hope not. If it isn't gonna make it or I did something wrong would it have inflated already. If I hacked it to much and it didn't get part of the mouth would I know by now. The one that I'm worried about did move a cross the rock so each one is on a side.




clown with ich

hey guys i have just spotted icy on both of my clowns i also have 1 bluespot puffer,1 coral beauty,1 2 spot goby,1 cleaner shrimp and 2 snails just wondering if there is a way to get rid of it without putting them in a quarantine tank as i don't have 1....any treatments without hurting my invertebrates than for any help




200 dry rock, no fish, 4 weeks, high nitrates

Hi,



First reef venture here. As I stated in the title I have a new 200 that I started with 300 lbs of dry rock and 340 lbs of a fine "live" sand. It's got a 40 gallon refugium with about 4" of Miracle Mud and I've added a clump of chaetomorpha. I've got a skimmer but the pump went out on it after the first week so it hasn't been in service. I seeded the tank with a couple of bottles of Instant Ocean BioSpira and one cube of some frozen shrimp. There is no livestock. I've been running the tank for about a month now with the lights off for the most part. Ammonia is 0, Phosphate, .5-1.0 and nitrates are 20-40. I did a 10% tank change last night and 15% today before doing some research here in the forums and was planning another tonight. I'm thinking I'm on the right track but would love confirmation. Is it time to start adding the clean up crew once I get the nitrates under control? Also, when can I start adding corals and fish and at what pace?



Thanks to everyone here for all your time helping educate others,



Cheers!



Marty




How are marine glues and epoxies rated when it comes to the pressure they hold?

I mean, when they figure that the stuff could contain a certain amount of water, what unit of measurement do they use?





I have a 150 gallon tank, 4'x2'x30".



What is a good sealant to use when putting in the overflow panes on the inside of the tank, where it's drilled? 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant? It does say that it will bond to glass, but will it really hold back 150 gallons worth of pressure from seeping through? If not, do you all know of anything that could easily do it?




New bta need help

Hey guys I got a new BTA 24 gallon nano cube 150 kessel old established tank was moved to my house just did a 10 gal water change two false clowns 6 line wrasse one cherry head Gobi and one pseudo bta is deep in rock 50 lbs of rock clowns have not gone in bta but late last night spot the clown that has sting circles all over him was in it???? before they have not hosted bta now nem is way is back now buried I did feed him twice this week too!!!




180 gallon bow front aquarium and equipment

Link: http://ift.tt/1oHHSJu



Looking to sell my complete 180 Gallon Bow Front Tank. I am getting out of the hobby as I do not have time for it anymore. Thanks for Looking!



For Sale:

180 Gallon Drilled Bow Front Glass Aquarium with Stand and Hood (Some Scratches on Glass)

Custom 120 LED Reef Light System

Water Blaster HY-7000W Return Pump

Hydor 4 Port Wave Maker

With 4x Koralia 7's

Fluval 300 Watt Heater

Reef Octopus Diablo DCS200 Skimmer

Two Little Fishies Phosban 550 Reactor

With Pump

55 Gallon Custom Sump (Needs some TLC)

Neptune Systems Apex Reef Monitoring System

With EB4 Power Bar

With EB8 Power Bar

With Temp Sensor

With LCD Screen

(Have pH and ORP Sensors, but they may not work)

Chiller



Paid well over $4200 for All, Asking for $2200, motivated seller, please, no lowball offers.



Also Have For Sale

Reeflo BH850 External Pump - $70.00

1x Yellow Tang - $30.00

1x Blue Hippo Tang - $50.00

2x Black and White Clown Fish - $35ea

1x 6 inch Blue Tahitian Clam - $125.00

3x Cleaner Shrimp - $15ea

1x Brittle Starfish - $5.00




anemones not attaching.

I have 4 small condy nems in my 29 long and 2 of them won't attach to the rock. the first one I got is doing great but 2 aren't. they are healthy and params are good. tank is 7 months old. I do have this algea I think on the rocks and sand. its a brown color and its really long and stringy in some spots. no bubbles like dinos have so I don't think its that. cyano mabe? its on the glass also. any ideas? thanks!





Posted from Thereeftank.com App for Android




SPS Bleaching

My "normal" birds nest looks like it is starting to bleach, the underside is whiter looking than the rest of the top and I am afraid I might lose the other sps I have. What can I do to resolve this before it hits my other SPS?



My current parameters is as follows:

dKH 10 (API)

Ca 420 (API)

SG 1.026 (Hydormeer)

PH 8.4 (digital PH)

Nitrate/Nitrite 0

MG Do not test



I dose Nano Code A/B during ATO (A during feeding)

Dose Iodide



I also run carbon using an AC70 and two AC70 carbon bags into my overflow.



This is also a Mix Reef so I do have a few LPS, I know they require dirty water but they have been doing well in my "pristine" water.



Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!




Advanced Reef Chemistry

I mentioned a great site I found about the different aspects of tank chemistry. This is a great very detailed site.



http://ift.tt/1nPkszQ




Mated Pair-Which one?

Hello, I currently have a 26g bowfront aquarium. I have a 2.5 inch Clarkii Clown, and a 1.5(ish) inch Yellowtail Damsel. The two fish get along quite well (except at feeding time). The next fish I would like to get would be a mated pair. I understand that 4 fish would be a lot of work, but I would really love to have some sort of mated pair. What do you think are the best mated pairs, and what do you think are a kind of mated pair that I could find at the lfs or liveaquaria?

Thanks...




Sunny SATURDAY!

Good Morning, Everyone! :)



Second cup of coffee and an apple turnover. Just a little pre-breakfast appetizer.



Mostly sunny and a warm 84f today on Rocky Top.



92 days till the VOLS stadium announcer says "It's football time in Tennessee"! Saturdays just aren't the same when there's no football. :cry:



Always best to be in Cades Cove at sunrise. A special time of day in a special place.







Have a Super Saturday!



Dick:)




Strkl4Kix's blog

Well since things have started to smooth out and I am on my way to a bigger project, I’d like to go ahead and introduce myself.



Hello, my name is JR and I am a “Reef-aholic”. What can I say? I am hooked. I’m a newbie to reefing but like most folks I have to say I was baptized by fire. I’ve been a freshwater guy for close to 20 years and always wanted a “saltwater” tank. You can imagine my surprise when I asked “What the heck is a ‘reef’, ‘FOWLR’ (Fish only) etc.??? All I want is a ‘saltwater’ tank!” Well this past September of 2013 I made the jump. A family member completely inspired me when I saw pictures of his tank with anemones (BTA), a torch, flower pot, clownfish, green star polyps (GSP’s), etc. Oh yeah, Acronyms, that’s always fun. So his 30-gallon cube inspired me to run to the store one day to get substrate and some salt, lol. In my twenty years I’ve had a 20-gallon hex all this time amongst other tanks. I used to nurse Tiger Oscars in there before moving them to my 55 gallon. This tank was in my basement empty for 10 years, so I said “what the heck” (I’ll expand on pain points later). So as with most mistakes some of us have done...I listened to my Local Fish Store (LFS) rep. “Yeah, here’s some salt, crushed coral, and the canister filter you have will be enough...oh a hydrometer”. Years of having fish tanks and I figured sure, I have plenty of equipment for this. So I washed the heck out of the tank, dropped in the rinsed crushed coral (like I said, I’ll get to pain points later), whipped out the old Magnum 350, and started using the “Zero Water” filter to start and mixed the salt (I believe I started with Oceanic). This was a Sunday morning around 7am. By 1pm I was so fed up with water filtering I ran to the supermarket for distilled water. I popped in a couple of power heads I had laying around, kicked on the noisy Magnum and we were off. Monday morning rolled along and I had a crystal clear running tank, WOO HOO! No kits, no clue, and the words of the LFS were my guiding light. “Yeah, come back next week for some rock, and the following week we can put some clownfish in” (oh brother….but hey, he didn’t suggest damsels). So a week later I picked up a total of 26 lbs of live rock (live and dry) @ $7.99 to $8.99/lb OUCH! I believe it was around this time I joined The Reef Tank (TRT) and familiarized myself with the Nitrogen Cycle. In essence, there was NO WAY I should be introducing something into the tank in a matter of weeks, lol. Uh oh….test kits! So, I picked up a API Reef Pack (more pain points). It was around this time a buddy said I should get a protein skimmer...queue the spending. Well the levels were stable and BAM, just before a business trip the ammonia spike began, I was ecstatic as I had been checking like a madman every night. So I watched the cycle Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate, until it was all nitrates. I have to say this was at least over a month. Water changes and I was ready.



The stocking begins:

I went to another store LFS and liked the place. The selection was great, but WOW it was pricey. I began my underwater family with Two False Percs and a fire shrimp with a cleaner crew, eventually a Brain Favia, a nice size Zoo colony, a chunk of green star polyps (GSP), peppermint shrimp, two green emeralds, red and blue legged hermits, and some snails. I had read about drip acclimation, so that’s what I did.

Status check:

So there I was, a 20 gallon Hex, 26 lbs of live rock, two fish (Elvis and Pricilla), coral, cleaner crew, canister filter (Magnum 350), a heater (Aqueon), insufficient power heads (Aqueon), a protein skimmer (CoralLife 65…ugh, but the break-in period was cool!)….and yeah, a $40 Marineland LED strip for lighting. A tank packed to the gills with no room and inadequate lighting. Oh….and the number of empty distilled water gallons was so atrocious! It was literally obnoxious, so I had to buy a RO/DI…a blessing; because when Target didn’t have water for days I was like….”*****!”



Lighting:

“Why the hell did I buy coral??” Because they are amazing. Well then my lighting better be amazing. LED’s, Metal Halides, T5’s…..kill me!!! LoL. Long story short, if I had found the newest Radion at that time in the store I was at (thinking $800), I would have bought it, but I am really happy that I saved a buck and bought the AI Sol Blue with wireless controller. “OK, $500 bucks later and how much am I into a 20 gallon tank???”



Status check:

I honestly think we’re just around three months now....I think.



So my tank was “up and running” and despite all the warnings (while reading threads) and the immaturity of the tank, I bought……wait for it…..a BTA (Bubble tipped anemone). We named him Edgar. I had walked into a Petco one day and said wow….the tanks aren’t that bad, but hey, the price is right to buy from here and save some creatures who were "eh". So I bought three more Zoo frags (love the dragon eyes), a Goniopora (pink, really tight polyps), a yellow fiji leather, and my BTA…happy and healthy. First off, when I saw the girl pry him off the rock, I should have just taken the rock as well. Lord knows what damage could have occurred (hindsight after reading about tearing the foot). All creatures were dripped and placed in the tank. I planted Edgar in a spot, his tips were full, and I was happy. This too was a Sunday. Monday morning “Where’s Edgar?”. Hidden under a live rock, flat, spewing his guts. I was dressed for work...i did not go to work. I watched this thing all day while reading up on TRT, Reef Central, 3Reef, Manhatten Reefs, WHATEVER! Direct feeding helped but this thing was NOT HAPPY! A month in and he would move and move and move and at times blow around the tank. Well one day I came home from work, the skimmer was on the fritz, the motor was jammed and Edgar was in there. The house stunk and toxins were in the tank. I had 15 gallons of salt mixed and I was off to the races. I was a fool and a creature suffered from it.



So there I was, my first casualty, a fresh tank, tons of equipment jammed in there, and the look of “what the hell have I gotten myself into?” So it was at this time I said “These power heads suck, they’re ugly and take up room, I’m tired of cleaning that Magnum, I think I have a flow problem, and why do I need mechanical filtration”. So I took a chance. Magnum removed (and by this time I already jammed a bag of chemipure in it and used filter floss – oh the amount of changes), removed the two crappy power heads, nailed a Vortech MP10 for $78 on eBay, and just ran a skimmer. “Holy ‘S’! It looks so much better!”. My HOB (Hang on back) skimmer, my MP10, My AI hanging above (oh geez the articles on the right light cycles), and oh yeah….surface scum. Ok, tossed an Aqueon back in to toss the surface. So….I was….”happy”.



Status check:

With the rest mentioned above, I think I had tried Kent Salt, finally got myself a Refractometer, a bunch of Salifert test kits (The strontium kits take SOOOOO LONG! And why was I testing strontium? Because I had a supplement kit for which I had no idea why I purchased), and finally ended up with a Red Sea Pro Salt special from BRS. Oh yeah, a bottle of Purple Up popped up around here too.



So the days start moving on and my corals are ‘ok’, have been moved around a lot, some happy, some not, trial and error and all of the sudden….”Hmm, look at that tuft of hair algae. My Emerald crabs or hermits didn’t give a crap about it. I pulled the tuft out by hand and that was that…or so I thought. Hair there, hair here, hair between Zoos….HAIR EVERYWHERE? “Phosphates? What are phosphates? My API tests isn’t showing any Phosphates” Well no matter what thread you read, it’s true, if you have hair aglea YOU HAVE PHOSPATE ISSUES!!! I kid you not, I didn’t bother looking for a test, I picked up a GFO reactor from BRS on special...another blessing. But where did I put it? A MJ1200 pump in the tank (Italian version, whisper quiet) and two unwilling to bend tubes coming up and over the tank top to a reactor that I perched onto an old TiVo box (no pics ******!). Two weeks I stared at this disaster of a display. But you know what? The hair was disappearing….I was happy…but I had an ugly, ugly, ugly tank. Not only was it jammed packed, but the flow sucked even with an MP10 at full. There was just too much going on. The answer “YOU NEED A SUMP!!!”. Ok, so I have a 20 gallon Hex with matching gloss black (very 90’s) stand. The tank measures 21 high, and the 6 sides are 9” each. The stand was slightly tighter. I measured and measure. The bucket sump will not work…..but a 2.5 gallon will.



Status check:

This is about the time I became a DIY freak!!!!!!!!



I made a 3 chamber 2.5 gallon sump, homemade pipe overflow (1/2”), and enough room to hold my skimmer and use my MJ1200 + GFO reactor (actually it runs carbon and GFO, but I just run GFO) as a return. Snug as a bug and I actually impressed myself. I used 45 degree angle in my plumbing to eliminate any toilet bowl flushing sounds. The tank drains into the first chamber with a bag of chemipure. The first baffle has some floss that’s super simple to change out. This is followed by the next chamber for my skimmer which has a drain hose to a wine bottle (all that really fits, lol), another baffle with bubble trap, and there is my MJ1200. This pumps up to my reactor and into my tank. You may ask yourself “2.5 gallons, aren’t you afraid it will overflow?”. It has…this morning (5/30/2014). A light fixture I had in the stand was stuck to the bottom of the tank with double stick tape. It fell into the skimmer chamber and drove it wild. The wine bottle overflowed….but the acrylic tub I made inside the stand base is capable of holding 2.5 gallons of water, just in case (should be enough for a siphon break on my return or drain.




Dirty socks !!!!!!

I've started cycling my 150. I have been feeding the tank daily for the last week and as this is my first sump I was wondering how long do I leave the initial sock on before cleaning it ? The details of my build can be found in my signature. No noticeable ammonia/nitrites as of yet but there is 200 gals of water in the system so I know it'll take a while.




vendredi 30 mai 2014

Scaled down version of my specs

Sort of a long intro before, so here's the meat of it:



20 gallon Hex tank with stand – 9” sides (x 6), 21” H

2.5 gallon sump – 6.5” x 12” x 8” (3 chambers – drain with chemipure chamber, floss, skimmer chamber, bubble trap, return chamber)

Coralife 65 Super skimmer with bubble trap box removed and ¾” PVC extending return into skimmer sump chamber. Fishing line and venturi line mods (THANKS TRT!)

MJ1200 return pump

BRS GFO reactor

(all this set in the stand on a homemade plexi hex tub (8” sides x 6 and 3” high) – flood catch)

Homemade ½” PVC pipe overflow

Between 18-20 bs live rock

AI Sol Blue Wireless adapter and controller – set 12” from water line with Lunar mode and weather mode. Lights on around 8am and off at 9pm (10 timers)

Vortech MP10 set at 75% - Reef Crest setting and night mode

Aqueon 750 GPH powerhead for surface circulation

Aqueon heater 40W (works great)



Substrate – Crushed Coral



Cleaner crew – 3 Mex Turbos, 2 Astrea’s, a collection of blue and red legged hermits, 3 emeralds crabs, 1 peppermint shrimp.



Coral – Brain Favia, 4 types of Zoo’s, Yellow fiji leather, Goniopora, Green star Polyps, placed a small mat of GSP the back wall, and my Duncan.



Fish – One Clownfish



Other – a Pincushion Urchin named “Spike”, lol

Tube worms/feather dusters happy and present



Parameters – Sal 1.023, 78”, PH = 8.2, Ammonia = 0, Nitrate = 0, Nitrate = 5 ppm (Water change tomorrow), Phosphate = 0 ppm, dKh = 7, Ca = 420, Mg = 1240

UBS to keep skimmer, pumps, and lights running in case of a blackout.



Pico Tank (only used to preserve and seed live rock and some live sand)


5 gallon standard – 16” x 8” x 10”

10 lbs of live rock – composed of rock removed from the hex and combined with dry rock from the shore of South Beach Miami. I picked it up on vacation this past March….the coralline growth is exploding now.

Aquaclear 30 (not modded)

40w heater (no idea of the brand)

That LED mainland strip light. Works well here.




Let this newbie introduce himself :) - hope you have time, it's a long one

Well since things have started to smooth out and I am on my way to a bigger project, I’d like to go ahead and introduce myself.



Hello, my name is JR and I am a “Reef-aholic”. What can I say? I am hooked. I’m a newbie to reefing but like most folks I have to say I was baptized by fire. I’ve been a freshwater guy for close to 20 years and always wanted a “saltwater” tank. You can imagine my surprise when I asked “What the heck is a ‘reef’, ‘FOWLR’ (Fish only) etc.??? All I want is a ‘saltwater’ tank!” Well this past September of 2013 I made the jump. A family member completely inspired me when I saw pictures of his tank with anemones (BTA), a torch, flower pot, clownfish, green star polyps (GSP’s), etc. Oh yeah, Acronyms, that’s always fun. So his 30-gallon cube inspired me to run to the store one day to get substrate and some salt, lol. In my twenty years I’ve had a 20-gallon hex all this time amongst other tanks. I used to nurse Tiger Oscars in there before moving them to my 55 gallon. This tank was in my basement empty for 10 years, so I said “what the heck” (I’ll expand on pain points later). So as with most mistakes some of us have done...I listened to my Local Fish Store (LFS) rep. “Yeah, here’s some salt, crushed coral, and the canister filter you have will be enough...oh a hydrometer”. Years of having fish tanks and I figured sure, I have plenty of equipment for this. So I washed the heck out of the tank, dropped in the rinsed crushed coral (like I said, I’ll get to pain points later), whipped out the old Magnum 350, and started using the “Zero Water” filter to start and mixed the salt (I believe I started with Oceanic). This was a Sunday morning around 7am. By 1pm I was so fed up with water filtering I ran to the supermarket for distilled water. I popped in a couple of power heads I had laying around, kicked on the noisy Magnum and we were off. Monday morning rolled along and I had a crystal clear running tank, WOO HOO! No kits, no clue, and the words of the LFS were my guiding light. “Yeah, come back next week for some rock, and the following week we can put some clownfish in” (oh brother….but hey, he didn’t suggest damsels). So a week later I picked up a total of 26 lbs of live rock (live and dry) @ $7.99 to $8.99/lb OUCH! I believe it was around this time I joined The Reef Tank (TRT) and familiarized myself with the Nitrogen Cycle. In essence, there was NO WAY I should be introducing something into the tank in a matter of weeks, lol. Uh oh….test kits! So, I picked up a API Reef Pack (more pain points). It was around this time a buddy said I should get a protein skimmer...queue the spending. Well the levels were stable and BAM, just before a business trip the ammonia spike began, I was ecstatic as I had been checking like a madman every night. So I watched the cycle Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate, until it was all nitrates. I have to say this was at least over a month. Water changes and I was ready.



The stocking begins:

I went to another store LFS and liked the place. The selection was great, but WOW it was pricey. I began my underwater family with Two False Percs and a fire shrimp with a cleaner crew, eventually a Brain Favia, a nice size Zoo colony, a chunk of green star polyps (GSP), peppermint shrimp, two green emeralds, red and blue legged hermits, and some snails. I had read about drip acclimation, so that’s what I did.

Status check:

So there I was, a 20 gallon Hex, 26 lbs of live rock, two fish (Elvis and Pricilla), coral, cleaner crew, canister filter (Magnum 350), a heater (Aqueon), insufficient power heads (Aqueon), a protein skimmer (CoralLife 65…ugh, but the break-in period was cool!)….and yeah, a $40 Marineland LED strip for lighting. A tank packed to the gills with no room and inadequate lighting. Oh….and the number of empty distilled water gallons was so atrocious! It was literally obnoxious, so I had to buy a RO/DI…a blessing; because when Target didn’t have water for days I was like….”*****!”



Lighting:

“Why the hell did I buy coral??” Because they are amazing. Well then my lighting better be amazing. LED’s, Metal Halides, T5’s…..kill me!!! LoL. Long story short, if I had found the newest Radion at that time in the store I was at (thinking $800), I would have bought it, but I am really happy that I saved a buck and bought the AI Sol Blue with wireless controller. “OK, $500 bucks later and how much am I into a 20 gallon tank???”



Status check:

I honestly think we’re just around three months now....I think.



So my tank was “up and running” and despite all the warnings (while reading threads) and the immaturity of the tank, I bought……wait for it…..a BTA (Bubble tipped anemone). We named him Edgar. I had walked into a Petco one day and said wow….the tanks aren’t that bad, but hey, the price is right to buy from here and save some creatures who were "eh". So I bought three more Zoo frags (love the dragon eyes), a Goniopora (pink, really tight polyps), a yellow fiji leather, and my BTA…happy and healthy. First off, when I saw the girl pry him off the rock, I should have just taken the rock as well. Lord knows what damage could have occurred (hindsight after reading about tearing the foot). All creatures were dripped and placed in the tank. I planted Edgar in a spot, his tips were full, and I was happy. This too was a Sunday. Monday morning “Where’s Edgar?”. Hidden under a live rock, flat, spewing his guts. I was dressed for work...i did not go to work. I watched this thing all day while reading up on TRT, Reef Central, 3Reef, Manhatten Reefs, WHATEVER! Direct feeding helped but this thing was NOT HAPPY! A month in and he would move and move and move and at times blow around the tank. Well one day I came home from work, the skimmer was on the fritz, the motor was jammed and Edgar was in there. The house stunk and toxins were in the tank. I had 15 gallons of salt mixed and I was off to the races. I was a fool and a creature suffered from it.



So there I was, my first casualty, a fresh tank, tons of equipment jammed in there, and the look of “what the hell have I gotten myself into?” So it was at this time I said “These power heads suck, they’re ugly and take up room, I’m tired of cleaning that Magnum, I think I have a flow problem, and why do I need mechanical filtration”. So I took a chance. Magnum removed (and by this time I already jammed a bag of chemipure in it and used filter floss – oh the amount of changes), removed the two crappy power heads, nailed a Vortech MP10 for $78 on eBay, and just ran a skimmer. “Holy ‘S’! It looks so much better!”. My HOB (Hang on back) skimmer, my MP10, My AI hanging above (oh geez the articles on the right light cycles), and oh yeah….surface scum. Ok, tossed an Aqueon back in to toss the surface. So….I was….”happy”.



Status check:

With the rest mentioned above, I think I had tried Kent Salt, finally got myself a Refractometer, a bunch of Salifert test kits (The strontium kits take SOOOOO LONG! And why was I testing strontium? Because I had a supplement kit for which I had no idea why I purchased), and finally ended up with a Red Sea Pro Salt special from BRS. Oh yeah, a bottle of Purple Up popped up around here too.



So the days start moving on and my corals are ‘ok’, have been moved around a lot, some happy, some not, trial and error and all of the sudden….”Hmm, look at that tuft of hair algae. My Emerald crabs or hermits didn’t give a crap about it. I pulled the tuft out by hand and that was that…or so I thought. Hair there, hair here, hair between Zoos….HAIR EVERYWHERE? “Phosphates? What are phosphates? My API tests isn’t showing any Phosphates” Well no matter what thread you read, it’s true, if you have hair aglea YOU HAVE PHOSPATE ISSUES!!! I kid you not, I didn’t bother looking for a test, I picked up a GFO reactor from BRS on special...another blessing. But where did I put it? A MJ1200 pump in the tank (Italian version, whisper quiet) and two unwilling to bend tubes coming up and over the tank top to a reactor that I perched onto an old TiVo box (no pics ******!). Two weeks I stared at this disaster of a display. But you know what? The hair was disappearing….I was happy…but I had an ugly, ugly, ugly tank. Not only was it jammed packed, but the flow sucked even with an MP10 at full. There was just too much going on. The answer “YOU NEED A SUMP!!!”. Ok, so I have a 20 gallon Hex with matching gloss black (very 90’s) stand. The tank measures 21 high, and the 6 sides are 9” each. The stand was slightly tighter. I measured and measure. The bucket sump will not work…..but a 2.5 gallon will.



Status check:

This is about the time I became a DIY freak!!!!!!!!



I made a 3 chamber 2.5 gallon sump, homemade pipe overflow (1/2”), and enough room to hold my skimmer and use my MJ1200 + GFO reactor (actually it runs carbon and GFO, but I just run GFO) as a return. Snug as a bug and I actually impressed myself. I used 45 degree angle in my plumbing to eliminate any toilet bowl flushing sounds. The tank drains into the first chamber with a bag of chemipure. The first baffle has some floss that’s super simple to change out. This is followed by the next chamber for my skimmer which has a drain hose to a wine bottle (all that really fits, lol), another baffle with bubble trap, and there is my MJ1200. This pumps up to my reactor and into my tank. You may ask yourself “2.5 gallons, aren’t you afraid it will overflow?”. It has…this morning (5/30/2014). A light fixture I had in the stand was stuck to the bottom of the tank with double stick tape. It fell into the skimmer chamber and drove it wild. The wine bottle overflowed….but the acrylic tub I made inside the stand base is capable of holding 2.5 gallons of water, just in case (should be enough for a siphon break on my return or drain.




A clam growing off my clam.

Or maybe an oyster. Any ideas?







stocking 66 gallon

looking for some tips with stocking my 66 gallon. bought a used setup and kept most the stuff and moved to my tank. Kept his live rock,coral,sand and about 50 gallons of his water. got a 40 gallon sump and running a fuge. He had a mandarin in it before i bought it but traded it.my tank is 48x16x20



right now i have right now a sixline that he couldnt catch so gave it to me

i want to get 2 oce clowns and eventually a bta anemone. I have to have a mandarin, whole reason i got into salt. other then that what else you guys figure would go good with these?




howdy!

Hello everyone good to be here.




friday meeting

A big thanks to Don and Katrina. Great food great company. And beautiful tank.




External skimmer guys and gals please come in

So I just plumbed and setup the brand spanking new sro 6000 ext and first off WOW what a huge obnoxious piece of equipment!!! Soooo awesome!!!



Anyway...haha



I have been reading and all I can find is that I want a through put in the neighborhood of 700 gph...problem is I have no way to measure the gph so can anyone tell me from experience or whatever...how do you determine how much to throttle the feed pump?? Coralvues directions with this thing are garbage..you would think for the money these things are they would give you more than a sheet and a half of "directions" lol



Any help would be appreciated!!



For the record it seems to be working fantastic after only running for a couple hours but I want to make sure it's set right or at least have the knowledge to set it right when it's all done breaking in



Thanks!!



Stewie




Kessil - New LED Fixture - Just Announced at InterZoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The New Kessil LED Fixture was just announced at InterZoo in Germany.



Here is the Link.



http://ift.tt/1oEOKqW




What is Periphyton?

Periphyton is what turns your rocks different colors. You know... the white rocks you started with in SW, or the grey rocks (or brown wood) you started with in FW. After several months or years, the rocks become a variety of different colors and textures. Why? Because the periphyton that has grown on it is a mix of different living things, of different colors, and thicknesses. And the important part is: It is LIVING.



That's right: The colored stuff that has coated your rocks is all living organisms. Sponges, microbes, algae, cyano, biofilms, and of course coralline. After all, "peri" means "around the outside", and "phyto" means "plant". Ever slipped in a slippery puddle? That's probably periphyton that made it slippery. It's a very thin coating on the rocks, sometimes paper thin.



There is a lot of photosynthetic organisms in periphyton, and this of course means that they need light; but they need nutrients too (ammonia, nitrate, phosphate). And as you might figure, they will be on the lighted portions of the rocks. And they will grow to intercept food particles in the water, based on the water flow. Just think about how sponges orient their holes for water flow; the micro sponges in periphyton do it too but on a tiny scale.



What about under the rocks, in the dark areas? Well these periphyton don't get light, so they are primarily filter feeders. So they REALLY grow and position themselves to be able to intercept food particles. And they don't really need to fight off algae, because algae does not grow in the dark, so they have no need for anti-algae tactics like plants in the light have.



Reef studies have show that at certain depths, more of the filtering of the water comes from periphyton and benthic algae than comes from the phytoplankton which filters the deeper water. And in streams, almost all the filtering is done by periphyton. So, what you have on rocks that are "mature" or "established" is a well-developed layer of periphyton; and all the things that comes from it.



This is why mandarin fish can eat directly off the rocks of an "established" tank (tons of pods grow in the periphyton), but not on the rocks of a new tank. Or why some animals can lay their eggs on established rocks, but not new ones. Or why established tanks seem to "yo-yo" less than new ones. Even tangs can eat periphyton directly when it's thick enough. Yes periphyton can also develop on the sand, but since the sand is moved around so much, the periphyton does not get visible like it does on rocks. So thick periphyton on established rocks is your friend. And totally natural too. Keep in mind though I'm not referring to nuisance algae on rocks; I'm only referring to the very-thin layer of coloring that coats the rocks.



But what happens when you "scrape the stuff off your rocks"? Well you remove some of the periphyton, which means you remove some of your natural filter and food producer. What if you take the rocks out and scrub them? Well now you not only remove more of your natural filter and food producer, but the air is going to kill even more of the microscopic sponges in it. And what if you bleach the rocks? Well, goodbye all filtering and food producing for another year. It's an instant reduction of the natural filtering that the periphyton was providing.



However, what if you just re-arrange the rocks? Well, some of the periphyton that was in the light, now will be in the dark; so this part will die. And some of the periphyton that was in the dark will now be in the light, so it will not be able to out-compete photosynthetic growth and thus will be covered and die too. And even if the light stays the same, the direction and amount of water flow (and food particles) will change; sponges that were oriented to get food particles from one direction will now starve. So since the light and food supply is cut off, the filtering that the periphyton was providing stops almost immediately from just re-arranging.



Starvation takes a little longer. The periphyton organisms won't die immediately, since they have some energy saved up; but instead, they will wither away over several weeks. So on top of the instant reduction in filtering that you get my just moving the rocks, you get a somewhat stretched-out period of nutrients going back into the water. And after all this, it takes another long period of time for the periphyton to build up to the levels it was at before. Even changing the direction of a powerhead will affect the food particle supply in the area it used to be pointed at.



So a good idea is to try to keep everything the same. Pick your lighting, flow, layout, and try to never move or change anything. It's a different way of thinking, but you should have a stronger natural filter and food producer because of it.




reading a color on a test

I was just reading a thread on another forum of color blind people on how to read the color on a test kit. A person came up with a pretty smart idea for how to read them. I haven't personally tried it yet but I bet it works. There is a app apple and others both have it. It's called color identifier. Do the test as usual. The app works with the camera and will tell you what color something is. So do the test put the camera on the test tube then on the color card. Which ever one it says the same name for both is the number your looking for. It uses some weird names but green isn't just green it reads all the different shades differently.




LED Light Controller

I have two buildmyled strips on my tank currently but I have no way of dimming or controlling them other than on/off.



What controllers are you all using? I would buy the buildmyled dimmer, but after a month of waiting for it to be built, I was told there still wouldn't be any available in the near future - so I need something else..



Thanks in advance!




What do clubs/groups like this do?

Hey guys I live in Springfield Oregon and I am kind of curious about this new group :) I am not familiar with clubs and such so I was just wondering what kind of things groups like this do? Who knows, maybe I will join you fellow Oregonian reefers :)




Just ordered 180g for new build!

So I just ordered a 180 gallon tank from Coast to Coast Aquariums with a steel stand. Eurobraced with Starphire glass on 3 sides. Should be here in 8 weeks. I'm am very excited! Decided to post here since my husband and parents are sick of me talking about the possibilities/options for the tank.



I also ordered a 75g tank from my LFS for my sump.



That's all I have so far. Well technically I have nothing... just tanks on order and a dream for an awesome reef aquarium.



I recently posted a thread about using dry rock/sand and have just come across threads for cooking the rock. So I think I am going to order a few Brute trash cans from Home Depot, the rock from Marco Rocks and maybe BRS, plus some salt mix. Seems like a good time to get started on that processes since it sounds like it can take a while.



I want to go for that minimalist/bonsai look with the rockwork but we will see how my lack of creativity limits me. Has anyone here used the E-marco-400 to bond rocks together? Just saw it on their site but it only has 2 reviews.



Also in the 8 weeks I have to clear out the "tool/construction" area of our house for the tank and add supports for it in the crawl space. Really, I want to make my Dad and husband do that because I can't stand the spiders down there. Otherwise I will have to buy one of those heavy duty paint suits and duct tape the arm and leg holes to gloves and boots. Not sure about the opening for my face. Can I duct tape it to a paint mask with goggles?



Anyways, as I make decisions on other parts of the tank I would love to post here and get any advice people have to offer from their own experiences. Most recently I have been researching LED lighting. Pretty sure I'm going to pick either EcoTech Radions or Vertex Illumina




aqua one 620 problem

hey guys i have made the mistake of buying a aqua one 620 tank which my lfs said it will b good enough....well since i am about 4 months into my first saltwater tank i have learnt so much about saltwater aquariums which i now know my tank was a mistake but i don't have the money to just go out and buying another tank so I'm just trying to make this one the best i can.....i am trying to find a protein skimmer for this and it is killing me because of the hood i don't have any coral jus FOWLR everything is good within the parameters but my nitrate is a little bit high like 50ppm.....any help with a protein skimmer would be awesome




advice on 600 gallon tank start up

Hello to all! This is my first post to please excuse my newbie ways. I am thinking of starting my first saltwater tank. I was originally making a 600 gallon concrete tank/pond for an aquaponic system but now that the tank is almost done I am having second thoughts. I live very close to the ocean so I can scavenge all types of fish and live rocks, however my knowledge of saltwater tanks is zero. Ive tried looking for simple starter guides and what Ive come up with is you need to start with live rocks which keeps ammonia levels down...i think. Then you can add fish and maintain the salt level. What Im really looking for is a simple, easy to understand guide on how to deal with moving live rock and fish and basically caring for the whole system. Any help or points in the right direction would be awesome. Thanks.




48 will be salt.

I will be turn my 48 gallon tank to salt and this time I will..LOL.



Do any typ of Watchman Goby/Tiger Pistol Shrimp team up?



Can I keep a reef lobster and a dwarf angle with them?



Thank You




76 Gallon Fully Stocked Saltwater Reef Aquarium

76 gallon Oceanic Half Cylinder saltwater aquarium ( Fully stocked inclusive deal)



20+ coral species : Pokerstar Montipora, Ultra Idaho Grape Montipora, Mint Chocolate Palyathoa, Ultra Red rhodactus mushrooms, turquoise zoanthid, white and yellow zoanthid, neon orange zoanthid, eagle eye zoanthids, Red Montipora frag, Huge Ultra green and purple frogspawn! Pink birdsnest, purple encrusting montipora, ultra green pipe organ coral, Huge purple plate coral, neon green finger leather, pink caulestrea.



3 fish: Flame Angel, Chevron Tang, and Royal Gramma, astrea snails, blue leg hermit crabs.



-100 pounds of live rock

-Live Sand

-250 watt halide (coralife HQI 250) with 2 65 watt power compact actinic and moonlights

- Octupus Extreme 150 skimmer

- 2 Seio m820 powerheads

- 1 hydor coralia powerhead

-Mag 7 return pump

-All Glass Model 2 sump with bioballs

- Spectrapure Maxcap RO/DI Unit

-Refractometer

- Other misc. suplies







All yours for the very discounted price of $1,500!!!!



Please contact Jeff at 602-432-5709 if you are interested or email me



I have put well over $10,000 into this tank, but I am moving in two weeks so it is priced for a quick sale.





I just took a bunch of pictures today, and have a video as well I can text or email to you.




Hey Oregonians!

We've got a new club forum, Oregon Keef Keepers. You can find us on TRT now in the reef clubs section. Right now we have 40 members and mainly interact on our Facebook group, but we're expanding on to TRT. Most of our current members are from SW Oregon and NW California. If you're from the area and want to join us, go to your UserCp and select Oregon Reef Keepers under group memberships.

See ya there!

Helen




29 Coralife biocube: can I remove bioballs and upgrade filter with water in tank?

Hey everyone, I am new to saltwater and am on the Third day of my cycle. I purchased life rock, love sand, and saltwater from a local fish store and set up my 29 coralife biocube. In my spare time waiting for the cycle to end I realized that upgrading my filter and removing the bioballs would help with clearer water and nitrate spikes. My question is basically can I remove the bioballs and upgrade my filter with the water in the tank and if so will it set back my cycle ? Please help!




New! AI Hydra TwentySix

NOW AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER!



The AquaIllumination Hydra TwentySix continues the Hydra's legacy of full spectrum performance with an output that exceeds the visible light spectrum, providing your livestock with the light they crave.







Combining the control of the AI Vega and unmatched power of the AI Sol, the AI Hydra brings a new level of performance. At a maximum of 95 watts from the wall, it follows in the family’s efficient footsteps.







The Hydra TwentySix comes standard with 80 degree lenses giving you the best balance of power and spread. AI lens optics are custom designed, boasting greater than 90% optical efficiency and including a diffuse exit surface to provide improved color blending.







The AI Hydra TwentySix utilizes the latest LED technology from leading manufacturers, arranged to provide the best performance:



8 - Cree XP-G2 Cool White (> 70 CRI)

2 - OSRAM OSLON Deep Red

2 - Cree XP-E2 Green

6 - Cree XT-E Royal Blue

4 - OSRAM OSLON Deep Blue

2 - SemiLED 415nm Violet

2 - SemiLED 400nm UV















NOW AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER!




Algae problem/ possible cause?

So quick rundown of my setup. I have a 70g DT with a 20L sump with a skimmer/ heater/ return. I have 80lbs. LR and 20lbs. LS. I have two Hydor Phs wit the wave maker and one Tunze Ph. Tank has been running since December 2013. I currently have 2 clowns, 3 B/G chromis, 1 six line wrasse, and 1 chalk bass.



I have green hair algae that doesn't seem to go away. I do bi-weekly water changes and all my parameters are good. The algae grows on my snails, rocks, glass, everywhere. I cant seem to get rid of it. At first I thought it was just the uglies but now I'm not so sure.



I also suspect the cause of the problem. I think I may be over feeding my fish but I don't know how to tell if I am feeding enough. My feeding schedule is:



Morning- Pellets

Night- Frozen Mysis or Frozen marine meal (or something like that, I cant remember the name)



I feed half of one cube of frozen food nightly.



So my question..... Am I over feeding? How often should I feed and how much?




new setup help

Hey guys i have some questions about a new setup that I am going to be running. It is an upgrade to my 20g nano tank. Anyway my new setup is a 72g bowfront with a 20g sump. In the sump I have a reef octopus NWB110 the middle is a fug, and then the return section. My lighting is a quad bulb setup T5 with 2 blue and 2 white each 54watt. My question is how should I acclimate the corals from my old tank to the new tank since the lights are brighter. Also how long should I run the lights? I ran the nano for 12hrs. and my corals just didnt look happy especially my finger leather.




Article + Videos: How to Set Up a Chiller

Annual Zeovit Sale Starts June 1st!

The Annual Zeovit additive sale starts on Sunday, June 1st and runs through July 1, 2014. Sale prices will appear on the site on Sunday. Any items that are not currently in stock may be backordered at the sale price and will ship as soon as they become available from the US importer. Please feel free to contact us for lead times on the backordered items.



The US importer only authorizes this sale once a year, so this is the time to stock up! Don't forget you get free shipping on orders over $175.00 and earn reward points for every dollar spent! (See site for shipping information)



http://ift.tt/1mQcWUg




40B Canopy Is Available!

For anyone like me who could not find a 40b canopy that didnt require a brace, That Pet Place finally has one in stock! Wanted to make sure everyone saw it.



http://ift.tt/1hFp8Th




Tgif!

Morning All!

Coffee and French Toast with Bacon(either way)!Half way though pressure washing hose had a hole in it(18 yrs old) which actually glad needed a break from it all! So went to dealer and got new one so that's on the to do list before the rain this afternoon and my bike should becoming back this morning from the dealer.Harley feeling a little better too!Enjoy the day!




Lower Nitrates

Ok, I am hitting a wall and I am thinking I am going to start using the vodka dosing method to get my nitrates down.



To kick this off, here are mt tank levels -



No2 - <.03

No3 - 20ppm

NH3/4 - 0

Po4 - 0

KH - 9dkh

PH - 8.5

CA - 440

MG - 1380

SAL/SG - 32/1.024



My nitrates have been consistent at 20ppm for a few months now. It is driving me crazy. I run two reactors with phos-ban and Chemi-pure and do 10 gal water changes weekly now (was doing twice a week for a while). I also do a large WC of 20gal once a month.



Now some will say it is ok to have Nitrates that high, but I have red cyano growing in my sumps bubble trap and I am constantly battling it creeping into my Fuge and covering my macro algae. Normally, I would pull the sump and pull the sand then go bare bottom, but I don't want to decimate my copepod populatin as I have mandarins in my DT.



Anyone have a suggestion on reducing nitrates?




jeudi 29 mai 2014

Protein Skimmer Help (leaking)

I got my protein skimmer from my LFS (not quite sure on the brand somewhere overseas) He is a pretty knowledgeable guy and has always offered me help so I didn't hesitate to buy from him. I installed the skimmer and it started to produce some gunk but never enough to push it into the collection cup. I noticed water coming from where the collection cup twists into the body and some white foam floating in my sump. I was wondering if this leak will cause me to lose any skimming production and to replace the seal ( I believe that to be the problem) or if I would be ok to leave it as is.




Is this good salt?

http://ift.tt/1pq9QJR



Is this good salt? :dance:




Green Tongue Coral?

Anybody know anything about these guys? Particularly Australian specimens? Thanks :)




Help with Protein skimmer.

HI, I have a 55g FOWLR and the tank has been running fine for a long time and the skimmer was just fine but i decided to add carbon just to clean out any impurities. After I placed the carbon in my skimmer started foaming and over flowing. I read that certain things can change the chemicals in the water and cause this so I'm wondering how can I reverse this. I took the carbon out and its been a few days but still over flows.




Just saying Hi..New to your group

HI!!! My name is L.J. new to your forum and just wanted to introduce myself..I am good friends with Helen (helenwheels) she is a handful lol just teasing you.. Her, Sean and I with a few others have a small local group for Oregon and norther cali on FB, Oregon Reef Keepers..

I have been in the hobby for many decades and still learning something new everyday witch is what is so great about this hobby or should I say our obsession..lol.

I have a 355gl SPS system and like to do allot of DYI experiments..I have crashed my tank more than once but if I am not pushing myself and learning something new all the time I am going backwords..

I Like to have fun with this hobby and don't sweat the small stuff..

Thanks for letting me be a part of your family..:thumbup:

L.J.




Protein skimmer

I am building a 110 FOWLR. Need a protein skimmer for a limited sump size. The Tunze 9011 or Aqua C 180 will fit. Anyone have either one or have feedback on them? Info would be greatly appreciated.




How to officially join!

Scroll up ^^^^ to User CP

Choose Networking>join group.

Select oregon reef keepers.

I will get an automatic email to approve you.

Just posting does not make you an official member.

Thank you!

Helen




Coral Bleaching and Flatworms

Hey guys, I've been having trouble with corals in my 65 gallon display tank. The tank has been set up for about 10 months, although the system is going on 3 years since it has been upgraded several times. The problem that I'm having is that nearly all the corals in the tank are experiencing bleaching, and I've lost several nice pieces to bleaching and tissue necrosis. I originally suspected my custom LED lighting over the tank, and turned it down considerably to see if any of the corals would regain their color, but after a month none of them did, so I decided to turn the lighting back up, and so far there hasn't been any noticeable worsening of the condition of the corals. I'm sick and tired of dealing with this because I really want to add some more corals to the tank, but I won't add anything until I get to the bottom of this bleaching. I've tried and thought of everything that could have caused it, and I'm kinda stumped now, so I figured someone here would probably think of something I had missed or overlooked. Here are the tank stats:



65 Gallon Main display with 20 Gallon Sump and 20 Gallon Frag Tank

Custom LED's over the Main Display

4 t%'s over the Frag Tank

Flow: mag7 to main display and mag3 to frag tank

3 Koralia powerheads in main display

Filtration: Eshops psk150 plus weekly detritus siphoning from frag tank and sump

Chemistry: Nitrite:0

Nitrate:20-30ppm

Ammonia:0

pH: 7.8

Alk: 6dkh

Phosphate: 2ppm

Calcium:410ppm

Livestock: Pair of Occelaris Clowns

Diamond Watchman Goby

Red Head Fairy Wrasse

Yellow Candy Hogfish

Scopas Tang

Cleaner Goby pair



So yeah, I'm kinda stumped as to what it could be. The system has always had higher nitrates since it's primarily soft and lps corals, and I never have had a problem with it as of yet. Lights are on for 8 hours a day, so I don't think the photoperiod is too long. The weirdest thing is certain corals in the frag tank seem unaffected, while others bleached considerably, so I'm just trying to figure out to what to do. If anyone has any idea what could be going on please say, I probably left out some info so if you need more just say so. Thanks for any help!!!



Oh yeah, I forgot to add this, does anybody have any experience with smaller flatworms? I'm not talking about red planaria, I'm talking about dark red/black flatworms that are so small I can barely see them with my naked eye. I had a zoa frag that was closed for a few days, so I inspected it and found them. Checked a few other plugs, and discovered all my plugs had them. Maybe this could be causing some of the bleaching? I don't know, just thought I would add that in there.




ai hydra....twentysix?????

So this is now a thing....



http://ift.tt/1gGd497




My obese Mandarin

Here's some pictures of my mandarin. The skinny one is my male I recently added. The girl was skinny when I got her too, but a steady supply of blackworms has fattened her up.





Need some help here! Live rock

Hello everyone,



So my friend has a 75 gallon tank and after being at his house a couple times I was getting tired of my small 30 gallon tank so I bought a 60 gallon tank.



I transferred all the corals, 30 pounds of live rock and about 10 gallons of water over with the rest of the water being new saltwater ( I have a RO/DI system and everything) My question is I know I do not have enough live rock and my neighbor is selling his dry fiji rock for $1 a pound. I was wondering if I bought 20 pounds and put this in my tank if it would cause a mini cycle? I need some help and pretty fast, I really do not want to go through another cycle especially since I have some really nice corals now. My 30 gallon has been set up for over a year.





Corals I have are: 3 montiporas, biggest one bigger then a softball.

SOOO many pulsing xenias, have them isolated on one side

two hammer corals, each one has at least 5 heads

One frogspawn, with 5 heads

One big green Galaxy coral

Two leather corals

Four huge green hairy mushrooms.



Everything has been growing so much, so I am wondering if adding this 20 pounds of dry rock to my tank that only has 30 pound of live rock right now if it will cause a cycle or a mini cycle.







Thanks you guys!




Overfeeding One key to happy fish?

I recently sold my old tank setup, and the guy buying it asked if he could see the current tank I had. I showed him, and he said "Wow, your fish look great, they look really happy"



At first I thought that was odd, but I think he was referring to them being very HEALTHY and thriving.



All of my Fish are very full bellied and think; my flasher wrasse looks like an umpa loompa, seriously he's overweight for a fish that never sits still LOL.



Everyone has their own opinion as to keeping healthy fish, but one of the things I believe in is making sure that every fish gets plenty to eat, and that they get different types of food daily.



The shy fish usually get the least amount of food, and even though I have a very peaceful tank (on purpose to keep stress levels down), I believe that putting a little more food in ensures every Fish the gets good nutrition daily.



I also turn the power heads off for a little so it's easier for them to get the food, then after all the food appears gone, turn them back on to kick up the leftovers into the water column so they can get some more.



Just a quick observation from my experiences. As long as you have a good Clean up Crew, a Kick Butt Skimmer, and do water changes, it's more of a benefit than a detriment adding a bit more food than normal.




The wrong fish

I ordered a juvenile oriental sweet lips and it was supposed to be 2" but it came ,5" and it's only black and white. Isn't it supposed to be black white and orange?




Moving 150 Gallon Tank

I'm new to the saltwater community but, I have to move my 150 gallon tank from one house to another this weekend, I was curious if you guys had any suggestions other than what I had already planned to do.



My tank has been set up for about two months now and I have to move it (I know ideally I should have waited but I couldn't help myself)

I have 4 55 gallon garbage bins so I can save my water/ try to make transporting as easy as I can.

I have a spare tote I will fill with water for my live rock

I was going to put my corals in a 5 gallon bucket of water same with my fish (trigger and two clowns)

My drive time is about 10-15 minutes.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated




Foxface and Naso Tang Price Question

So I am starting to sell off all of my tank stuff. I have a guy interested in my Fox Face Rabbit Fish and Naso Tang. Both are full grown. What would a fair price be for the both of them?




Equipment for sale

Following items are for sale:



AI Hydra Gen 1 x2 - $ 350 each (will do 700 shipped if you buy both)



AI Director x1 - $ 80



Vortech MP10es x2 - $ 180 each



Aquac EV -120 with ozone fitting + 5 gal Aquac waste collection jar + 775 gph pump Marineland NJ3000 pump (w/fittings) - $ 200



All items come in original boxes. Will be posting pictures shortly.




Blasto Coral Advice

Hey guys. So here's the story:



Going back 2-3 weeks, I bought a nice colony of blastomussa merletti from my LFS. The only problem with the colony was that the skeletal tubules were so long (approximately 5-6 inches) that they literally wouldn't fit anywhere in my tank comfortably. I saw colonies online were MUCH shorter and manageable than that, so I asked my LFS if I could trim them down from the back end without hurting the coral. They told me yes. So before I trimmed them down, I let them acclimate in my tank for about a week right around the area where I wanted to eventually glue them after trimming. In that week, that looked full and beautiful.



So following my next water change, I decided to trim the blastos down to approximately 3-4 inches, taking off an inch or two from the skeletal tubes that were extra long. Then I glued it into place. I'm sure it was severely traumatizing for the coral, as I had to take the coral out of the water and quickly go to work, so I figured it would take a while for them to reacclimate and open up.



My problem is that it's been about 2 weeks since I trimmed and glued them, and they're still almost completely retracted into the skeleton. They're not showing any sign of dying as far as I can see, as I still can see the tissue, but it's just completely retracted. There are very rare occasions when the blastos begin to show signs of coming out, just enough to cover the skeletal teeth, but that's about the extent of it.



My question is whether or not this is considered normal. I haven't had any problems with any of my other corals yet, nor have I done any traumatizaing surgery like this on them either, so I'm not sure if 2 weeks of the blastos being retracted is something to be worried about/problematic, or if I should just give them more time to open up again. Do you guys suggest I try to unglue them and place them somewhere else? Maybe dip them?



Any suggestions/advice is much appreciated - thanks in advance! If you think taking a picture of the blastos would be helpful, feel free to let me know.





For reference, my setup is:

30 gallon bow front. I run it bare bottom so I can siphon all detrius with each water change. I consistently do 20% water changes weekly, so my levels are typically pristine (ph-8.2, ammon/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate-0, alk-~8, calc-~400, salinity- 1.025-1.026). Octopus HoB skimmer. MP10 powerhead. If you'd like any further information, please feel free to ask.




4x Bulb T5 HO Combo Help

Hey guys. I'm fairly new to the whole lighting scene and thought I'd ask for some help before I placed an order to replace my 4x T5 HO bulbs. After having done a little bit of research around the site about what others have used for their 4x bulb combo, I think I have a general idea about what I want to purchase (below). I'm trying to shoot for a more blue/purple hue compared to my previous combo (below) of bulbs that came stock with the purchase of my lighting unit.



I just want to know what you guys think of my bulb choices, as well as any advice/recommendations/etc. you may have, comparing my previous bulb combo with my current goal of shooting for a more blue/purple hue. Also, I don't want to stress out my corals by completely switching up the type of bulbs I use, and I'm unsure if this is even possible since I'm still staying with T5 HO bulbs? Like I said, I'm really new to the lighting scene and would appreciate any and all help - thanks in advance!



OLD combo:

(2) 24" T5 HO 24W 420/460 Lamps

(1) 24" T5 HO 24W 700+ Lamp

(1) 24" T5 HO 24W Purple Lamp



NEW combo:

(1) 24" T5 HO 24W ATI Blue Plus

(1) 24" T5 HO 24W ATI Aquablue Special

(1) 24" T5 HO 24W ATI True Actinic

(1) 24" T5 HO 24W Korallen Zucht Fiji Purple



Thanks guys!




30% off Live Shelf and Dry Reef Rock

All sizes of Real Reef Live Shelf Rock and AquaMaxx Dry Reef Rock are 30% off this week, no coupon required!



Get started on the greatest 'scape now!



















blue powder tank got the munchies

Recently I've acquired a powder blue tang for my tank and have had him for about 3 weeks with no issues. A couple days ago I woke up to my Acans being completely munched by something. They had a white cloud of something on top of them with no flesh left behind and died within days. Are powder blue tangs reef safe? I never though a powder blue would be able to eat a coral as it appears to have such a small mouth. Should I worry about him eating other corals as well?



John Riker




Cleaner Shrimp Not Cleaning

I bought a Cleaner Shrimp from my LFS a month ago. They told me I would see it clean all my fish and explained how cool it was, but so far I have not seen it clean any of my fish. I talked to my LFS about this and they said that I'll never see the shrimp clean my fish because the fish don't want to expose their gills when I am in the room, as I seem like a possible threat to them. I have never heard of this and want your opinion... Is this true or does your shrimp clean in front of you? Thank you.




Looking for some live rock in Rochester

Hello all,



I'm looking to get some live rock next week to seed a new reef tank build. Would prefer some higher quality pieces and about 30lbs or so. Please let me know if you have some for sale!




making the change

Hi all and thank you for having us, i say us as its my wife and my dream to own a little piece of her home town in our home.



A bit of back ground we have recently sold our 6'2'2 sump system. we have kept only american cichlids, JD's have still got my jd's there mated and beautiful, Severums and Oscars, a fish i've come to love, i swear they wag Caudal Fin like a dog wags its tail everytime the spectrum came out, and sulk when the Spirulina makes an appearance lol great fish!



We all ways intended to move to Marine it just took us a little longer than we first thought refer to love for oscars lol, bt now we plan to utilize a 270litre tank, we have a beautiful curved front that we are wanting to do fowlr for a few years till the kids are older and we can incorporate them, and then when they are ready we will move into inverterbrates that way husbandry can be shared around the entire family, thats the plan watch them hate it lol



So what do i need to know, assume i know nothing as i've come to find in this hobby the assuming that you know nothing is often the only way to learn something?



I guess my most important questions are about;

1. Setup Requirements in a sense of equipment, i am starting from scratch apart from tank and stand i have a t5 fitting but am thinking LED upgrade, I have in tank prop type pumps, i have a 5500 eheim return pump and a 2400 aqua one return pump.What of that is useful and what else do i need, probes test units, phosphate remover or pallet reactor

2. Setup and requirements for ongoing care, RODI units? Water storage solution would an IBC 1000ltr pvctub outside and sealed be sufficient or in my garage sealed? Salt requirements? Testing units?

3. What can we expect to keep in a tank that size, 1200x450x500 270ltr with out overstocking and creating a maintenance nightmare and before its suggested i'm not buying another six foot, next big tank i have will be MASSIVE and in the house we plan to build, at least 3-5years.



My plan is to be exceptionally patient as i was when i first started my FW systems, and bah over stocking and over feeding which was an issue with the plank (me) running the tank, rather than the build of it, i was able to produce an incredibly easy system to manage by investing smart money in making husbandry easier, this build criteria will be the same, im not saying uneccessary equipment but more intelligent ideas based on experience with this particular fish keeping, ive heard raise your rock off the surface completely, then rock lifts etc etc there is so much info!!!







Thank you for your help in advance, im sure this will only lead to more questions or at least i hope so




Best clean up crew combo in 20 gal nano?

Hi,

Just wondering, has anyone got any opinions/experiences on what is the best CUC for a 20 gallon with 20 lbs of live rock. I haven't started any yet just planning ahead. Thanks :)




Gatlinburg Ripley's Aquarium

Memorial Day weekend my family and I were in Gatlinburg TN. It seemed one of the top attractions to see is the Ripleys Aquarium, although we DID NOT have time to see it.



We may be planning another trip in the Fall when the tree leaves bring to color.



Wondering if the Aquarium is worth the money..... or if I'm a member of my local aquarium, Newport's Aquarium in Cincinnati, that I wont see anything new that I haven't seen at Newport.



All comments welcome.




Hot Glue Gun Glue Sticks REEFSAFE ???

Are the "ARROW" brand glue sticks from Home Depot or Lowes that are used in a hot glue gun REEFSAFE ?




Thursday, i think

Good mawnin', TRT!



Coffee is ready for the early birds and some is waiting for someone to start it.



Belgian waffles with VT maple syrup. Strawberries and nanners on the side. Bacon to be cooked as folks want it. ;)



Jeff - Good deal on using your free stuff to save all that money!



Helen - "Frig-strangler" is an apt description for some of the rains we have here. It may be a Southern thing, but I've heard it used on The Weather Chanel.



Off to Civitan. Lots of love and hugs and peace to everyone.




mercredi 28 mai 2014

LPS is still bleached I need help!

Ok so it's time I got some help from my fellow experts. Some of my LPS are still bleached from increasing my LEDs 10%. Around that time I switched from the crappy petco salt to IO. So a change in lights and salt. My hammers, frogspawn, and torch have stopped growing. They are discolored and look bleached on the tops. They were beautiful before I did this. How can I save them? What can I check that would cause this? It's been 2 weeks since I turned down the LEDs 25%. They normally come back from these things right? I gave had the FS for more than 3 years. Half of it is almost see through.




New Saltwater Hobbyist Here

Hi guys I am a new saltwater enthusiast and had a question about my new reef tank and the cycling process. About a week ago I added some crushed coral and Aragonite sand along with a protein skimmer and two pump heads to my 65 gallon salt water tank.

This past Sunday I added about 45 pounds of uncured Fiji live rock. I noticed when putting these rocks in they had what I believe to be purple coralline algae already growing on them. I added fish food for two days to the empty tank and the water is at a constant 78 degrees. I started taking measurements today due to my absence from the tank for the last couple days. I have approximately 7.6 PH, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrate, 0 nitrite, and my salinity after a few adjustments is at approximately 1.026.

According to what I have read, my tank readings are almost perfect except for the PH being just a tad low and my salinity could lower just a tad.

My question is, does this mean my tank is ready for at least invertebrates? I thought the cycling process was supposed to take up to 6 weeks, how are my readings already where there supposed to be after 4 days?



Any suggestions on the next step? Thanks in advance guys!




clown taking nems food?

so today I fed one of my condies their shrimp today and he took it in and then one of my maroon clowns came over and stuck his head in and ripped the shrimp out and left it. didn't even eat it. haha. this normal? has it happened to anyone else?





Posted from Thereeftank.com App for Android




SPS - how are they ?

So I got new sps and I wanted to see if you all think they are doing well...here are them in white only...











Need Help W/ Protein Skimmer

Hi! I am new to this forum stuff. But I am Hoping I can find someone to help me. I bought a Turboflotor Blue 1000 Protein Skimmer, I am having a couple different issues with it and I am not sure what I'm dong wrong.



I have it placed in the 3rd chamber of an AQUEON PROFLEX REFUGIUM setup.



1st problem- The protein skimmer is sucking up the water from 3rd chamber, bubbles a minute, and then stops and releases back into chamber. Any suggestions?



2nd problem- when it is working bubbles don't make it to the top hardly to fill the cup.



Hope someone can help! Thanks!!!




Algae in sump

I recently bought some chaeto algae to put in my sump to help with higher than desired nitrates. I don't have a fuge, so I just put it in my bubble barrier and got a desk light with a 6500K bulb.

Well, my nitrates are pretty low now (about 5ppm, not sure if it is the chaeto or the bio-pellets). The chaeto hasn't seemed to grow that much. I'm not sure how fast it grows, but it is still really dark green.

Because of the light (I leave it on 24/7), I have all sorts of other dark red algae in the sump now. I bought a couple turbo snails and put them in the sump to eat some of the undesired algae, but they both died. Is this because of the light? Do they need light cycles? They were doing a good job before they died.

Is this algae an issue other than just being unsightly?




Rose Bubble tip Anemone Shrinking At Night

Hello all!

I have had my RBTA for 5 days now.

So far it has been great: he found a home on my rock & has had his foot anchored there since day 1. During the day (actinic & daylight cycle) the anemone looks beautiful; he has bubbles on his tips, has inflated tentacles, & is a deep beautiful color. However, at night his tentacles shrink/deflate... and every morning the tentacles re-inflate. I have fed him twice so far (PE Mysis Shrimp). Does anyone else's anemone do this? Is this a sign of stress or is it normal?

Thank you guys!



I have T5 Lights (4 bulbs, 54 Watt each)



Light Cycle:

Actinic (1 regular blue, 1 Actinic Blue Plus) on for 10 hours a day

Daylights (10,000k) on for 4 hours a day

Moonlights (LED) on all night when other lights are off




Acan coral ate my skunk cleaner shrimp........

Yesterday I woke up to find the malted shell of my skunk ckeaner laying next to my acans. I saw what I thought was part of the shell in the acans mouth, and the rest floating nearby attached to the acan as it slowly pulled the shell in.



I didnt see the shrimp and figured hes hiding in the rocks bc his new shell is soft (I have no other criters except coral) but it has been 2 days now and he is nowere to be found.



Im thinking that he decided to malt right ontop of the acans and since its a slow process the acans thought he was food and sucked him in whike he was malting and what I thought was a part of his malted shell was actually the shrimp.



Either way he dissapeared, and I have no clue were else he would bave ended up. Has anyone else had a similar experiance?




Aquarium safe pvc glue/cement?

HI,

I need a cement or glue brand that can stick PVC/pressure pipe without harming the inhabitants?

ANy ideas appreciated :biga:




Marine Depot is Hiring!!!






POSITION AVAILABLE: Customer Service Representative



Job Description



Candidate will join the front line of our business and engage with customers on a daily basis. Primary duties involve problem-solving and providing accurate information to customers in a professional and friendly manner. Customer Service Representatives are responsible for providing accurate information about the specifications and proper use of the aquarium products available on the MarineDepot.com website as well as responding to customer email and phone inquiries regarding shipping, order tracking, returns, order status and site navigation.





Qualified Candidates Should Possess


  • Saltwater reef and fish experience

  • Excellent verbal and written communication skills

  • An outgoing, positive attitude about providing superior customer service

  • Computer literacy

  • Ability to share your knowledge

  • Multi-tasking capabilities

  • Experience working in a problem-solving capacity




Duties and Responsibilities

  • Assist customers with a positive shopping experience

  • Ensure the competence and development of your colleagues

  • Work with the Customer Satisfaction Index to benchmark and improve our service execution

  • Respond to and resolve customer issues with urgency

  • Ensure implementation and development of the Family Friendly Concept

  • Assume responsibility for projects and tasks as they occur




If you're interested in joining our team, please email your resume to hr@marinedepot.com for consideration.



About Us

MarineDepot.com is a fast growing online aquarium supply company located in Garden Grove, CA. We're looking for smart, creative people who will give 100 percent. Ideal candidates must be dedicated, detail-oriented team players that will thrive in a fast-paced, high-volume ecommerce work environment. The office atmosphere here is low-key, casual and collaborative. We have regular company BBQs, celebrate Take Your Dog To Work Day® and have a great benefits package. Although it is not a prerequisite to working with us, most of our employees are pet/aquarium owners. We love what we do!







Are snails really the answer?

It seems like the last few dozen snails I have placed in my tank have all died within a month. Whats worse is they fall behind the rocks were I can't get to them and just rot away adding to the nutrients in the tank.



So I start thinking. Are snails even really that necessary? Why am I paying $2-$3 for a single snail that really only spends about 5% of it's life actually on my rocks where I need it (they're almost always on the glass). I can clean the glass. I'm tired of trying to fish out rotting snail carcasses, and I'm tired of flipping over snails that can't turn themselves over.



Any thoughts.....