Hello everyone, It's been a long time since my last post. I recently list my wife to cancer,a and I moved into a different home in a rural area and am having a very, very hard and challenging time trying to control green hair algae and red cyo. I've dealt with all before with Karen and we had it under control, with her super diligent maintenance, she was in the tank every single day. She really, really lived her water garden. I do to, but I'm having a hell of a time getting situated in my new place, and I need help and advice for a 50 year old guy who's overwhelmed with everything...trying to start everything fresh.
(I have a important question on my PuratekR/O unit.) Here's the specs, been basiclly the same for about 15 years.
140 gallon including sump tank, Cone protein skimmer, 2 filter bags, w 2 Chemipure bags and 2 Phos-Zorb bags U.V. And the R/O unit w newer cartridges..pretty simple & basic..but it worked well..I intend to add improvements...but 1st I need to stabilize..The aquarium move was a sheer utter disaster and I lost 3 of 5 fish and 90% if the corals..I was so heartbroken and demoralized..I just couldn't get the tank swapped over quickly nor w adequate filtration..but it's all up and running for the last month w a new Tank and dual overflow sump system. Help on this in future posts..but RIGHT NOW, THE IMPORTANT THING IS THE FOLLOWING, to ensure I'm getting my clean water.
Ever since we've had this, 5 years now..it's been (unclear) as to what is the (correct position) of the black valve. The instructions do not specify which way the valve should be for normal operation vs back flushing the membrane...no aquarium shop anywhere near me know either.
Hopefully some of you remember these kits and can help me out.
1.(With the valve pointed as is in the photo, and per the decal on the valve it says (FLOW??), Like this the water delivery line slows down and substantially more waste water goes down the drain.
2.) With the valve turned 90° the water delivery volume increases, but the waste water then slows.
slows. I don't know 100? for sure) which way it's supposed to be to function correctly
I don't have a TDS meter...I know..I know.. I should get one.
Thanks for any help, I really could use it, this tank was my wife's baby, even though I helped out, It is now apparently how much work she put into maintaining our reef tank..It's proving very hard for me , to maintain on my own, but I'm stubborn as It's one happy memory of something we shared for 27 years. I feel I owe it to her to keep trying. But it's daunting..I realize now after all these years that a reef tank is a luxury and needs daily work..literally every day something needs tweaking..I'd so like to try to automate better my other HUGE problem is I evaporate 2 gallons of water every day, so the smaller sump on this new Tank can run dry, almost every day..I gave to figure out a inexpensive fix, auto fill etc..as I cannot leave my house for more than a day or 2st the most.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm don't overwhelmed... lol
Thank you in advance for any advice
(I have a important question on my PuratekR/O unit.) Here's the specs, been basiclly the same for about 15 years.
140 gallon including sump tank, Cone protein skimmer, 2 filter bags, w 2 Chemipure bags and 2 Phos-Zorb bags U.V. And the R/O unit w newer cartridges..pretty simple & basic..but it worked well..I intend to add improvements...but 1st I need to stabilize..The aquarium move was a sheer utter disaster and I lost 3 of 5 fish and 90% if the corals..I was so heartbroken and demoralized..I just couldn't get the tank swapped over quickly nor w adequate filtration..but it's all up and running for the last month w a new Tank and dual overflow sump system. Help on this in future posts..but RIGHT NOW, THE IMPORTANT THING IS THE FOLLOWING, to ensure I'm getting my clean water.
Ever since we've had this, 5 years now..it's been (unclear) as to what is the (correct position) of the black valve. The instructions do not specify which way the valve should be for normal operation vs back flushing the membrane...no aquarium shop anywhere near me know either.
Hopefully some of you remember these kits and can help me out.
1.(With the valve pointed as is in the photo, and per the decal on the valve it says (FLOW??), Like this the water delivery line slows down and substantially more waste water goes down the drain.
2.) With the valve turned 90° the water delivery volume increases, but the waste water then slows.
slows. I don't know 100? for sure) which way it's supposed to be to function correctly
I don't have a TDS meter...I know..I know.. I should get one.
Thanks for any help, I really could use it, this tank was my wife's baby, even though I helped out, It is now apparently how much work she put into maintaining our reef tank..It's proving very hard for me , to maintain on my own, but I'm stubborn as It's one happy memory of something we shared for 27 years. I feel I owe it to her to keep trying. But it's daunting..I realize now after all these years that a reef tank is a luxury and needs daily work..literally every day something needs tweaking..I'd so like to try to automate better my other HUGE problem is I evaporate 2 gallons of water every day, so the smaller sump on this new Tank can run dry, almost every day..I gave to figure out a inexpensive fix, auto fill etc..as I cannot leave my house for more than a day or 2st the most.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm don't overwhelmed... lol
Thank you in advance for any advice
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