mercredi 1 juin 2016

Holy crap!

I have a very large carpet anemone and i have had him for 2+ years. He usually stays in his corner or goes high on the rocks. The other day he was completely open which is not like him.

I was doing a water change and pulling water from the sump when my gf screamed who was on the couch behind me. I looked up and my one spotted foxface that is fully grown and i have had for 3 years was half ways in the carpet anemone.

By the time i got my little grabber into the tank the anemone had already switched from the wide open stance to a taco formation. Basically trying to swallow my foxface. I wasnt having it and decided to pry it open and release the foxface. It took me a good 10 mins to free the foxface.

She was in rough condition with spots all over her from the tentacles of the anemone. I did remove her from the 90 gallon tank and into a Hospital tank.

RIP Foxy as she lived for about 30 more hours.

Moral of story carpet anemones will eat fish, no matter how long they have lived together it can always happen. I have no idea the cause of why foxy went to close or what really happened but i miss my foxface already.





HELP! White ammonia test color

Hello. I am a new member and I am fairly new to salt water. With that being said I bought my brothers used 29gallon BIO CUBE tank from him. He also gave me 29 gallons of established water from his current tank. His tank has living fish and corals in it. Once I got tank home, I put new live sand in there and poured his water in there. After getting everything setup I decided to check his ammonia level. His ammonia level came out good and then I checked the salinity level. The level was only at 1.000. So I added crystal reef salt to the water and got the salinity level at 1.025. After getting the salinity level good I checked the ammonia level again. This time it came out a milky white color. And after sitting for about 20 min it turn light milky blue. And now I'm stumped. Any ideas?

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: 20160529_181132_1464814578398.jpg Views: N/A Size: 28.0 KB ID: 127409   Click image for larger version Name: 20160531_195127_1464814611504.jpg Views: N/A Size: 25.5 KB ID: 127417   Click image for larger version Name: 20160601_155636_1464814626197.jpg Views: N/A Size: 25.9 KB ID: 127425  



hi new to the hobby n need help maintaining water parameters

can anyone help me i have a 30 gl innovative marine tank sump is in the back i have ghost skimmer and a bio pellet reactor i just added 2 days ago.... i been having this tank for about 8 months just started to introduce coral i have a hammer and a xenia..... my problem is my ph level is about 7 n my alcalinity n calcium and magnesium have been dropping for some reason anyone have a solution plz thanks dont want to have my corals dying


NEW @ MD: VarioS pumps, Apex Wi-Fi controller & Orion LEDs

NEW @ MD: VarioS pumps, Apex Wi-Fi controller & Orion LEDs

New gear from Reef Octopus, Neptune Systems, JBJ, and Red Sea!



Diatoms and Dosing

Quick question. has anyone had any issues with dosing and diatoms. My tank had been perfectly clear but now i am starting to get diatoms in my sand bed and some of my rocks almost right after water changes. I use RODI and Coral Pro salt.

I did recently start dosing Calcium and Alk. Both were on the low side for a reef tank but are now up to 430 and 8.9.

tank is relatively new (in the sense that it was filled in December) but it was a transfer from another tank (65 to 120) and i used new sand but rock from the old tank.

I just get frustrated because I keep up on my water changes (10-15 gallons weekly)

Running GFO and Carbon as well

any advice or has anyone experienced issues with diatoms when they first start dosing. Fish and coral all seem to be fine


Dino War!

So I figure I would open this thread to detail my fight with Dinos. Hopefully my pain can help others.

I have a 75 gallon take with a 30 gallon slump. Being new I though the algae was diatoms and part of the process. Digging deeper I learn I had the dreaded dinos. So the first thing I needed to do is figure out where it came from and what is feeding it. being a new tank I had 70 percent dead rock and my live rock came for a pervious system with some soft corals on it. Well I had this need barnacle piece I got from the LF. Looking at the tank most of the dino where right next to this piece with a powerhead right above it. My guess is this barnacle wasn't treated and the powerhead help spread the dino. The funny thing is the other end of the tank was mostly clean. All the discolored sand and slimly algae was on the side with the barnacle piece.

So barnacle was removed blew off most of the dinos and now the tank has been covered. Good thing for me is I don't have a huge outbreak but you could see it was starting to effect the soft corals.

So let me know if I am doing anything wrong here but these are my next steps,

1. feed once during the black out and check the critters. Only one I am worried about is the urchin
2. Order new carbon and GFO for the reactor, soo as it gets it I will replace the old stuff.
3. After the 72 period is over I will suck/scrape whatever I can get on the rocks and in the water. Then vacuum the sand.
4. Two water changes after(one every other day). Thinking about 20% each change
5. Light will go on for 4 hours for the next week. 2 hour blue then 2 hour blue/white lights.

Is there anything missing?

PH was already around 8. So will does each day to maintain that level.
Skimmer turn wet to produce more bubbles and skim mate.


Hello Wednesday!

Good morning TRT friends, and.....HAPPY WEDNESDAY! No '*'=M's or T's today, they confuse my 2 fingers too much. Scrambled egg sandwiches to go with our coffee and pink milk for starters. Sunshine and upper 70's today, and probably the rest of the week. Hope all are well, and all the best,
Hack

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: download.jpg Views: N/A Size: 11.2 KB ID: 127377