mardi 1 mai 2018

Swimming feather dusters???

Just got some coral from the LFS. There are a bunch of tiny feather duster looking worms swimming around in the container. I’ve read what feels like a million hitchhiker ID articles but can’t figure out what these are. Someone help please?!?!

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low pH and dehumidifers?

back story.

I have been fighting low pH bottoming out at 7.6-7.5. At this point I am confident that it is due to high levels of CO2 in my room or within the tank cabinet because if I open a window or the cabinet doors the pH rises. I know it is an easy test to verify but I have been a little to lazy to do it. regardless that is really not what this post it about.

Now to my post and to my observation. This past year I have been running a dehumidifier in the fish tank room. This also coincides with the lower pH level. Prior to this year my tank has always been on the high side running about 8.3-8.5.

My thought is that the dehumidifier might be contributing to a high concentration of CO2 in per potion to Oxygen in the room by pulling out the O and H2 to create H2O. In turn there is less Oxygen available for the tank.


is this a sound theory? Could the dehumidifier really be a contributing factor?


Help with lighting cycle for 55g mixed reef and LED fixtures

So, I'm trying to bring my 55g (standard AGA) mixed reef tank back from the dead after 3+ years of neglect. I want this to be a low-maintenance, easy-care reef tank with mostly softies and LPS coral.

For the past 3 years, I was lighting my tank with a 48" Ecoxotic E-series LED fixture. It's only a 56 watt fixture, but I was basically running my tank as a FOWLR as that's all I had in it since a massive coral die-off and aiptasia outbreak several years ago.

Now that I am bringing it back online as a mixed reef tank, I needed to increase my lighting. I had added GSP, Frog Spawn, Toadstool Leather, Zoas, and Xenia to my tank over the past couple of weeks. They weren't doing all that great under the low levels of the Ecoxotic LED fixture. To supplement, I added more LED fixtures. I am keeping the Ecoxotic 48" LED fixture, but I have added (2) Fluval Sea Marine & Reef 3.0 48" LED fixtures. Each Fluval fixture is 59 watts. So, the total wattage over my tank is 174 watts LED.

All of my coral improved significantly after I added the extra lighting. I'm fairly certain this should be enough light for the corals I plan to keep. I don't intend to get any corals or inverts that require high-intensity lighting, such as SPS or clams.

Now my dilemma is trying to program a daily lighting cycle that will make my corals look their best, and help keep them healthy and growing. The Fluval 3.0 LED fixtures have Bluetooth connectivity, and you can use the FluvalSmart app to set the timer and coloring of the fixtures. The app has three preset color profiles: Deep Sea Glo, Sunny Reef, and Color Burst. It also allows you to manually program the intensity of the separate colors (Pink, Cyan, Blue, Purple, and Cold White) from 0% - 100%. It allows you to program the timing for Sunrise, Sunset, Midday, and Night.

My questions are:

1. What is an ideal light cycle for a softie and LPS reef tank? Total hours of illumination?

2. For the Sunrise and Sunset programs, you cannot change the color mix, only the timing. It uses whatever color mix you have set for the Midday program and simply ramps up/down over the duration of time you set. What is a good amount of time to ramp up/down for Sunrise and Sunset?

3. What would be an appropriate mix of color to use for the Midday setting? I can manually set the pink, cyan, blue, purple, and cold white colors. I ran out of time to mess with all the color settings last night before getting called to bed by my wife. So, I just set both Fluval fixtures to use the "Deep Sea Glo" setting for the midday program. The Deep Sea Glo is mixed with Pink @ 10%, Cyan @ 100%, Blue @ 100%, Purple @ 100%, and Cold White @ 30%.

4. Should I use more or less Cold White intensity during the midday program? I know white can have a significant impact on the growth of coral, but it also encourages nuisance algae growth. Plus, there's the aesthetics of the tank to consider. More white blows out and diminishes the fluorescence of the corals.

5. What kind of light setting (if any) should I use for the overnight program? The default setting for the Fluval program is to turn off all colors except the blue channel and run that @ 5% overnight. However, when I tried the 5% blue setting last night to check it out, it seemed pretty bright for leaving on all night. I even turned it down to 1-2% blue, and that still seemed too bright. Should I just turn off all lights overnight? Or is there any benefit to having a moonlight on during the night?

6. The specs for the Fluval 3.0 LED fixtures state there are 336 LED bulbs. However, it does not provide the makeup of the bulbs (e.g. how many white, how many blue, how many purple, etc.). I can only assume that at least half of the bulbs are probably the Cold White color. If I significantly lower the Cold White intensity during my midday lighting program, is the remaining blue/purple light going to be intense enough to promote coral growth and health?

Thanks for any help anyone can provide!


Turbo snails coming out then closing up.

Hi, I have a 20 gallon truvu with 2 black ocellarus clowns, 2 domino damsels, pistol shrimp & watchmen goby, fire shrimo 10 blue legged hermit crabs and 2 turbo snails. I got the turbos and crabs so they can help with my diatom problems. When i first put the snails in there. they were moving around eating for about 2 hours. then the snails became less active so i thought they were still getting used to the chemicals in the water so i let them sit overnight and one was on the wall and the other upside down poking out then hiding like it was scared. i flipped him back over and haven’t been back home to see how he’s doing. Is this normal, should i keep an eye on them incase they die?

nitrate: 10
phosphates: 7
calcium: 420
alkalinity: 8
nitrite: 0
ammonia: 0
salt: 1.025

I do need to bring up the phosphates a little bit but to my knowledge it all looks ok.


GFO - coral reaction

I have been battling red slime in my reef aquarium for a couple of months and after my water change this weekend decided to reinstall my GFO reactor to combat phosphate. My phosphates test show 0 but I read that as long as i see red slime there has to be some in my tank. I used to use GFO before but due to hurricane Irma I lost all my fish and had to start over. I had not reinstalled the GFO because my soft corals were growing much better without it. I have mushrooms, hammer, frogspawn, candy cane and ricordea. I had forgotten how much to use and went to the BRS website which said 1 1/3 cup for my 75 gallon tank/10 gallon sump. Within 15 minutes all of my corals closed up. Looked like they were going to die. I shut off and within 24 hours they are back to normal. Reading various forums i get so many disparaging opinions as to the amount of GFO to use- now I am totally confused!
How much do you guys think I should start with? How fast should it be increase and to how much? Maybe I did not rinse well enough?


Bonded gobie pair with shrimp

Is this a good idea for my tank instead of the yellow watchman and pistol shrimp? https://m.liveaquaria.com/divers-den...-pistol-shrimp


A quick howdy Tuesday

Top of the morning TRT Friends, .....and HAPPY TUESDAY! Cherry Frosted Pop Tarts to go with our coffee today. Mid 70's under sunny skies. Got a couple packages to get ready for Mrs. H. to get to the post office for me this morning. Man do they keep 'banker's hours'! Hope all are safe and well,
Hack